2003 Audi A4 Worklog ~ Puff's Ride - Page 4

Paul H · 06-11-2006, 02:10 PM

Why don't you dril a hole in the AC-housing next to the condensor, put a hose in it and fit that on the computer housing if you tap in the right place you always have cold air (unless the AC is off

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Puffanug · 06-11-2006, 02:15 PM

What happens when the heat is on though?

Wait, do you mean a hose from a place where only cool air is going to be? I'm confused... LOL...

Paul H · 06-11-2006, 02:25 PM

The system is designed to not only cool the air but also dry it, there is always a flow true the condensor but when you turn on the heat that cold dry air is mixed withe air that run true the heater so the air is warmer but still pretty dry so your windows are clear.

I'm looking into my study material for an example picture

Scouse Monkey · 06-11-2006, 02:42 PM

but....cold aircon air in a humid environment will cause water to condense out of the air. could be dangerous.

+1 by the way

Paul H · 06-11-2006, 02:54 PM

That's why they call it Automatic-Climate-Control instead of just Air-Conditioning, if you blow in dry air there is nothing in the air to condensate

Scouse Monkey · 06-11-2006, 03:11 PM

urgh! i am not arguing with you over this. I know what *****ing aircon does. I am talking about the air that is already in the area when you cool it and most importantly the air that is in direct contact with any PC parts. cold air can cause water to condense out. so my advice is not to have AC air blosing directly over the PC parts as the rapid and direct cooling can cause condensation.

Paul H · 06-11-2006, 03:18 PM

Quote:

not to have AC air blosing directly over the PC parts as the rapid and direct cooling can cause condensation.

you've got a point, so where looking for indirect cooling

ODYSSEY · 06-12-2006, 03:35 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Paul H

you've got a point, so where looking for indirect cooling

Agreed.

Scouse Monkey · 06-12-2006, 03:38 AM

yup. +1

Puffanug · 06-12-2006, 11:24 AM

Update:

I started sanding the front of the lcd bezel. It looks like a little bondo and paint, and it will be done. The pastics welded together great, I put a lot of pressure on them in different places, and it held fine. It still has a little flex to it, just enough to snap into place in the car without cracking anything (I hope).

So this week, more sanding, bondo, sand, paint, sand, bondo, sand, paint, etc...

Stay tuned!

Scouse Monkey · 06-12-2006, 11:29 AM

ok will do

+2

archimense · 06-12-2006, 12:25 PM

I've been following your thread to get ideas on how I want to do my 2001 Audi S4. I like what you have done so far.

Puffanug · 06-12-2006, 12:46 PM

Your 2001 S4 has a different dash, but lucky you. It gives you enough room for a 7" and a slimline drive if you want. Good luck on your install...

P.S. Has your MAF gone out on your '00 VR6? Mine did right before the warranty died, so I traded it in for my A4. My '00 VR6 Jetta was quicker than my Audi, but my Audi is a tighter, smoother ride... love both cars though...

ODYSSEY · 06-12-2006, 12:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Puffanug

Update:

I started sanding the front of the lcd bezel. It looks like a little bondo and paint, and it will be done. The pastics welded together great, I put a lot of pressure on them in different places, and it held fine. It still has a little flex to it, just enough to snap into place in the car without cracking anything (I hope).

So this week, more sanding, bondo, sand, paint, sand, bondo, sand, paint, etc...

Stay tuned!

Post more pics when done.

archimense · 06-12-2006, 12:54 PM

Yeah, my VR6 MAF died after about three years. The new one has lasted three years so far. I clean it with some electrical contact cleaner every year or two.

I believe I will be able to fit my entire computer behind the dash in my S4. I would like to start with a dash kit like you did and mold a bezel into that, but I've heard that the dash kits don't fit very well on the B5 S4.