1990 widebody Toyota Celsior - Page 2

Blipman · 07-14-2006, 01:11 AM

Don't go to the effort of digging up details mate, I was just curious, I've already got the kit now so I shouldn't need that info in theory. Yep that's what was spent in Japan, that's not too surprising, labour rates in Japan are pretty outrageous, it's not at all uncommon to spend that sort of cash on a car in Japan and then to sell the car 2 years later for a quarter of the cost.... it's one of the reasons why I'm in this business!

Mine is certainly fiberglass, I don't know I'd want the eurethane, anywhere near the body where it's been blended in would crack pretty quick if there was any movement.

Ben

Blipman · 07-15-2006, 06:38 AM

A quick question: I bought some sound deadening sheets today (ones without adhesive already on them), while this might seem like a dumb question, which side do I glue to the metal? The one with the foam or the one which is just the straight plastic like material?

Ben

portabuddy · 07-15-2006, 12:22 PM

foam, and it should be like a metalic material, like milar. if you glue the other side down that will defeat the pourpose, what it dose is bounce the soundwaves, the bass bounces off of the "plastic" and back into the car and the road stayes on the metal of the car, the foam cancles it like a cushon. hope this answeres you question.

EDIT:
btw, for future refferance i found the guy, Canichi tykiomo. ha i knew i still had it.

Matrix_24 · 07-16-2006, 08:48 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by tj!2k4

wow, that looks wicked

Blipman · 08-19-2006, 08:06 AM

Well I've been a bit slack (plus I've been concentrating on getting the car registered) but I finally have a bit of progress made, I spent the last week running all of thw wiring through the car. Wow. I can't believe how hard this was, the amount of electronic crap in this car is unbelievable, and there are no holes from the cabin to the trunk big enough to even get an RCA through, let alone a VGA and USB extension cable (with chunky heads) or 2 gauge power supply!

Causing the most problems was removal of the electrically moving, heated, vibrating rear seat with seperate climate control (with seperate air conditioner for the rear), seperate tape player and radio controls.... it would have been SO much simpler without all that junk there.

My arch nemesis:

In the trunk there is the fuel tank, second air conditioner, air purifier, air suspension solenoids/valves and various computers and electronic boxes. All this made for no way to get thick cables through.

So I took the wimps way out and removed the factory sub (which is toast and won't be used anyway) and ran the wiring through that conveniently large hole (this is not all of them btw).

I removed almost everything from the dash back.... I had to just to run wiring to the front!

Getting 2 gauge through the firewall was equally depressing (plus RCA for camera and other wires), but with that done now I can wire things up and at least have a test system with actual sound and images!

Ben

FC3S · 08-19-2006, 08:25 AM

i was waiting for updates for this, haha

generally i hate 4 door cars, but i gotta make an exception for this one, damn it looks nice

Spaghetti · 08-22-2006, 09:28 AM

****!! Very nice

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

i really want to hate that car, but the body work looks top notch. Good luck on the installation and take plenty of pics!

Yeah I hate the idea of a four-door wide body, but it works - looks like a touring car now!

Blipman · 11-05-2006, 12:06 AM

It's certainly been a while, but an update! Screen is finally in, with new piece made to hold the traction control, rear seat control buttons and suspension height controller. This took WAY longer than you'd think. I wanted a factory looking install, hence I didn't use a fold out flip screen.

But not all is well, I'm having a really weird problem, any input would be appreciated. The screen hooks up to the computer via a normal monitor cable (for picture) and a USB cable for the touchscreen element (treats it like a mouse, essentially). Now, if I plug the screen in directly to the laptop everything is fine and the touch screen works. If I then plug the screen into a USB extension cable (which runs to the trunk) and then plug the laptop info that it doesn't work properly! The touchscreen is completely mirrored (ie you touch top right, it moves the curser to bottom left) and when I try and configure the touchscreen the utility says it can't be found. How can use a simple USB extension cable stuff this up and make the laptop not recognize the touchscreen properly?!

Ben

pancakeboy · 11-09-2006, 11:26 PM

Blipman! Man i've been waiting years for you to post...lol.That screen is lookin' good. Hows that 8 inch workin for ya? Quick question, what are you using to hold you screen in place and can you elaborate on how you used the aluminum on the screen cause the pics are confusing. And about your touchscreen problem, I think it may be a power related issue. You may need a powered hub up front for it to work properly....Oh drop me a pm or post here if you wish...

Blipman · 11-09-2006, 11:39 PM

Yeah it's been slow going. I have 2 and a bit cars which are projects at the moment and I'm somehow managing to work on none of them! (... and I've gone and bought another...)

The 8 inch Xenarc is good, I'm a bit dissappointed with the contrast on bright days or in direct sunlight, but that's life I guess (I know there are solutions but I don't want to pay that much for 'em!).

The screen is just a push fit at the moment but I'll actually keep it that way. It's quite tight and holds firm, and the slight V shape of the hole means gravity pulls it down and holds it in place anyway. I used the aluminium front piece and cut/ground it to the shape of the hole, and removed the backing piece, it was really quite easy and looks good. This also meant I had to modify the plug at the back (which goes into the screen) so that it comes out of the side of the plug rather than the end of the plug, or the cable wouldn't fit.

I don't think the touch issue is power related, it seems quite happy going off the cig lighter connection for now (although it dims with the turn signal etc), I'm going to try a different PC as the laptop I used to test was pretty ancient.

Ben

pancakeboy · 11-10-2006, 07:32 PM

say, how thick is that aluminum your working with? Where did you buy it? Also how did you fit the screen with the alum. piece, bodo, fiberglass, or is it like a coverplate with the button holes cut out and the alum piece over the screen. Sorry for all the questions, but i am in the middle of redoing my screen, and i know you know how much of a b!*ch it can be working on the ls400 and making it look stock.

P.S. Where did you get the shiftknob?

(sorry)

Seeking_S13 · 11-10-2006, 10:55 PM

How long is the USB cable to the touchscreen?
You might need an "active" USB cable if its really long!

fwaggle · 11-11-2006, 08:04 AM

i was gonna suggest an active usb cable, a passive usb cable kinda violates USB specs, and you might just be learning why. :/

ubiquitous · 11-11-2006, 08:18 AM

What is active USB and what length of cable would this be needed for?!

Seeking_S13 · 11-11-2006, 09:10 AM

Active cables amplify the signal for long cable runs or to cut through interference!
Mostly cables over 5m or 15ft are pushing the limit of USB and you might have problems and with all the interference in cars!

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