Megalomaniac

Wow! this thread is impressive! I always love seeing DIY work
What I find really impressive is that you took your door apart for the deadening. That never came across my mind to that I ended cutting myself on various spots on my arm trying to jam deadener in a small opening.

But I notice you intended on competing, you asked about USACi & IASCA. NONE of your wires are loomed & secured(every 6") wont you get immediately disqualified?

Also you have no A/C I dont think I could handle that here in DFW, TX, but you probably need the heater(blowing at feet) more than anything in IL, wasnt it like 58 degrees yesterday?

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RedGTiVR6

You're not immediately DQd, you just have a good deal of points taken off.

Wire doesn't have to be loomed from one end to the other, it has to be protected as it passes over or though any area where it might be cut or otherwise harmed.

Securing every 6" is in USACi and IASCA, not sure about MECA, which is what he competes in.

Also, he might not be doing an install competition. Might be competing in sound only, in which case, install isn't judged or considered at all.

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durwood

ya, I'm somewhat lazy when it comes to wiring. I lack the patience to go all out. my wiring in my 04 mazda was a bit cleaner and all wires were terminated properly and protected when passing through metal. No lose strands of wire sticking out of anythink. Heatshrink where it needed to be, etc etc. That was all that SLAP cared about. This car has become more experimental and it makes it hard to always keep it clean if ya know what I mean. For now, all my wiring is pretty much located behind the rear seats and EVERYTHING can be accessed for testing/checking if there are problems.

SLAP is gone from the midwest, so all I have left is MECA. MECA separates Install and Sound. You pay extra to get judged on install although for sound they just do safety checks on power wiring. My power wires under the hood are secured and loomed and pass through a grommet in the firewall. I prefer to just compete in sound anyway and my final install at least what you can see looks clean.

I have AC If I were to completely remove my stock radio THEN I would have no AC. For now the stock radio just sits in the dash and does nothing.

I recently got the last of my points needed to compete at MECA finals. Carputer with all software processing goes to MECA finals this year in Nashville Tennesse 11/17. This might be my last year competing though. I don't know what's instore for next year. I have more fun experimenting than anything and it makes it hard to keep a clean install if you constantly are under construction.

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Megalomaniac

your mids arent in blowers?

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durwood

ah yes they are, so that's what you meant. I still have three vents in the center right below my screen. Cools the car just fine.

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Megalomaniac

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durwood

hehehe, sorry this worklog is filled with pictures from my old 04 mazda6 and my new mazda. That picture is from about 3.5 years ago. Not to mention all the revisions it's gone through. The midbasses aren't even the one shown here anymore. Here is a picture that is ALMOST current. I have even redone the screen mount and the H701 has been removed, but with the car at the dealer right now I can't snap any pictures of it. So here is what it looked like in the spring from one of my posts on the first page or second page.

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Megalomaniac

I think you should do me a favor and go outside tomorrow morning and take some Updated pictures of everything. So I dont get confused anymore on whats going on here.

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aviator79

What a better place to post my first post. Im going to be doing a HU-less install it looks like. I have a lot of research to do as im a newb to carpters and this forum is overwhelming me. I installed the "holy grail" (not sure if you been on mazda6club forum lately). I was going to use the stock HU but realize now that is silly. I was going to just do a 2 way passive but now am also thinking a 3 way active would be better if I only knew what I was doing. I just need to determine OD of the rainbow profi mids to see if they would fit in vents.

Anyways this post has been a great read. Subscribed.

bartosz

I went to northland future shop to get it all intalled and waited for fours hours after I came back and the subs were not working the guys told me that the amp is bad, but its all new stuff. I got from my brother.
they said they are going to try fixing it tomorrow. but what could they have done wrong please help me out. its urgent. the amp was level to max and the input from subs was minimal. did they burned someting. they also connected some cables to the stock bose sub. please help me out tonight.

sO I went to future shop second time and it still doesnt work I scheduled for tuesday they are goin to look at it. everything works but the sub just plays minimal.
what could the solution
where should they wire the amp and subs ?
my email beetlepl@hotmail.com

durwood

95-96mm is the max diameter of any speaker that will fit in the spot where the dash vents go. I've seen the stuff about the holygrail screen mounting option and it's cool that it's gone so far. I haven't checked in on that ina few months. I'm pretty happy with my current screen mount, I just need to tweak it a bit and then I'll be really happy.


Are you asking this because you have a mazda6?

There could be many things wrongs. If it's a mazda6,

taping off the factory bose sub wiring for signal should not require a line output converter. You can just wire RCA ends onto the signal wires. Hopefully the shop knows what they are doing.

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aviator79

Are you saying max cutout diameter? I took my vent out and it measures about 121 or 3.75" so I was going to go with a DYNAUDIO ESOTEC SYSTEM 362 as the mids have a 3.76" OD and 96mm cutout diameter.

1 Max. Ø 121
2 3 holes Ø 4 on Ø 110.9
3 Mounting hole Ø 96 (add cut-outs
for terminals)

I was going to do a passive set up though as I do not understand how to configure a active setup. I was looking at getting ALPINE RUX-C701 + PXA-H701 so that I could eventually go to an active setup. You think it is smart of me to just eliminate the stock HU? I need some reasurance.
What are all those wires on that buss bar in your trunk mounted to the back seats?

Attached Files

	mid.doc (68.5 KB, 64 views)

durwood

I was afraid of that. I think you did your math wrong somewhere or you are reading the dimensions wrong. The conversion of inches to mm is 1inch=25.4mm. So, 3.77" = 95.7mm. The dynaudio MD142 has a cutout hole of 96mm, BUT the outer diameter is 121mm. So unless the MD142 can be cut or ground down, it's not going to fit into the stock vent unless you plan on having it stick out and nothing the screw into. It's about the same size as a 4" speaker.

Only 3" drivers fit in the vents or anything that has an OD <96mm.

As far as setting up active systems, vs using the passive crossovers, it will sound better IF you can tune it properly. Passive systems are ok, but they are generic and not designed with a particular car in mind. The only problem with active systems is more amplifier channels are needed, and the if you are new to tuning it can be overwhelming at first, but it's not that hard. If you need help I can point you to some tuning tutorials and some good forums.

The Buss bars or terminal blocks are wired to the computer. Not in any particular order:

-12V constant
-12V switched
-Ground
-12V from the PSU used for switching relays and amps on and off, and DVD player power, and Harddrive power

-5V from PSU used for DVD player and Harddrive power
-Ground
-Power switch for the computer
-Power switch for the computer

Well, if you go with the Alpine H701 and controller, you really won't need to eliminate the stock Headunit. You can always have it as a backup or extra source. Use the digital input on the H701 for the computer, and use the Analog input to the H701 for the stock headunit. You can just add some RCA cords to where the BOSE amp is/was and plug it into the H701. I had mine setup that way for while.

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aviator79

You were right I messed up, my math wasnt wrong I just overlooked that it came out to 4.77 not 3.77 (dislexia). But Ive consulted a dealer and looking at the manual I can see that I can cut the flange off leaving the speaker at 96mm so it will work.
So I would like to go to an active setup, but I will wait on that. I am going to wait on the H701 to see if anything new comes out, but do you think that If I get some higher end amps, such as audison LRX 6.9 or a 4.1, that I can use the stock HU or will will it sound like crap. I know I will hate the fact that I have no control over any settings.
I just do not have a carPC built to go HU'less yet as I need to do some more research. This is all knew to me.

durwood

The stock headunit in the mazda really isn't all that bad. If you use the front channels before the Bose amp, the freq response is pretty flat and it's a 2V output which is about the same as a good soundcard. The H701 analog input is somewhat noisy in regards to hiss. Either way the Audison's are nice amps so nothing wrong there.

BTW, I don't know if you are in the market but check this out:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26023

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