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Old 09-22-2008, 07:08 AM   #151
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@ Markr: It's not that good, but it's difficult to say it's because of the screen resolution or the converter.

the default factory screen is quite small at 5.8", and something like 640x468 res......so not exactly dead-standard, but close enough. Text was not crisp at all, although images were nice and bright.....so, if you're using ot for video with minimal text, you'd be ok....
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Old 09-22-2008, 07:36 AM   #152
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Quote: Originally Posted by mrbean_phillip View Post
@ Markr: It's not that good, but it's difficult to say it's because of the screen resolution or the converter.

the default factory screen is quite small at 5.8", and something like 640x468 res......so not exactly dead-standard, but close enough. Text was not crisp at all, although images were nice and bright.....so, if you're using ot for video with minimal text, you'd be ok....

Thanks for the reply mrbean, I only intend to use it for a gps, music etc using Centrafuse so it sould be fine. How is your build going, looks fantastic so far.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:29 AM   #153
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Hello Guys,
Very long time no post.

Well, no excuses, life/work got in the way, had an extremely busy professional life the past year.

Anyway, lot's of happenings/changes etc.

1) The Apple MacMini, although being a very nice little unit, compact et al, still slow booting XP/posting with EFI. To counter that, I am replacing it with my Commell LS-372, running a 1.8gig Core 2 Duo cpu, 2gigs of ram, Atheros WiFi, and last, but not least, I replaced the 7200rpm Seagate Momentus 2.5" drive with a new 60Gig OCZ Vertex.

Boot-times with an nLite'd XP SP3 setup improved from +/- 25seconds (from power-on to Desktop) on the Momentus to 21seconds with the same nLite'd setup on the SSD.

Compare this with the around 40-45sec with the MacMini, with 2gig CPU, same ram, and same Momentus

Even with CentraFuse set as the system-shell, to go from pushing on button to CF Desktop, takes 40seconds - not bad at all. That includes loading Plugins etc.

Much faster now, and even a smaller footprint than the MacMini. These Commell boards rock, but it must be the LS-372 with newer 965GME chipset - the older LV-677 with 945GM chipset is a fair bit slower to go past POST screen.

2) Received my new TPMS integrated pcb setup from Alok (or Lok on Mp3Car) and trained sensors to this new unit. All good.

3) Installed new CF 2.1 build whatever, and got everything up and running nicely - one small problem with my Nokia phone, not pairing with the Audio gateway. My Wife's work fine, so some small issue to resolve.

4) Got my ELM-327 OBD-II dongle to interface with CentraFuse - wish I could use either my very expensive AutoEnginuity-, or even more expensive Mongoose FEPS interface with CF - ah well, probably sometime in the future - for now, I can read all the most important parameters in CF anyway.

5) Last but not least, tonight tested my new NEC NL8060BC21-03 LCD transflective 8.4" LCD - beautiful Wow, now I believe what Thermoptic meant in his thread somewhere in the LCD-section about the clarity/quality of these panels with direct light shining on them.

I need to do a bezel for this panel, and need to mount the ALR-1400 Digital View controller board, as well as the 84PW041 inverter.

Looking so good, I will finally finalize this project - jeesh, nice to have a break, and come back all charged-up and ready to go.

I will do some photos sometime late into the weekend, and post them up.

Last edited by mrbean_phillip; 10-18-2009 at 12:18 AM..
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:08 AM   #154
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fantastic to hear from you again mr beanphillip.

I followed your thread from the start and have played with the screen in a baxr6t a bit with CF and suits perfect for what i need.

I will eventually either get bigger screen or do something with it this year.

Looking forward to the pics.

Cheers
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:26 AM   #155
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Transflective LCD Update

Hello Everyone,
@ Matt971:Thanx for the feedback, and looking forward to your progress!! Keep us posted...

Made some progress on the LCD setup.

As some of you know, I mentioned earlier that I was going the same route as Thermoptic with his NEC 8.4" Transflective LCD.

It is a very good solution, both the fact that it is transflective, and 8.4" at that, makes for a better fit to my (very difficult to mod) Ford F6 Tornado bezel.

Well, after a few hiccups, like the incorrect (5V 84PW041) inverter, I finally received the 12V 84PW031 unit, which means I can now power the inverter, backlight controls, and brightness, directly off the ALR-1400 controller board.

It makes for a very neat, tidy setup, suitable to my build-requirements.

With the NEC NL8060BC21-02 being an open frame LCD, without any case, I had to do something custom with aluminium, which also means it would be a sure way of mounting it onto the bezel.

Here is the ALR-1400 controller mounted in the custom housing, immediately behind the TFT panel.



Here is the new 84PW031 12 inverter:



And here the LCD button controller electronics (for testing purposes)



Here you can see all the electronics as they sit snugly behind the TFT



and the housing on an angle, giving you an idea of the dimensions



Here I have the angled shot from the front



and then, two shots from front-on - please take note that you will see some reflection, as I have left the protective plastic cover on the LCD for now, until I am finished with the bezel - hence a slight reflection from the camera flash......in case you wondered....



and



and lastly, here two shots of the LCD connected to the carputer, and sitting in Desktop environment:

With flash.....



and without flash



For the moment though, please ignore the rough state of the fascia bezel, I need to start working on that next, so I can get this into the UTE.

Good progress though, both carputer, with all software, casing, etc sorted, same with the LCD - the LCD secures very well onto the fascia, with decent 3mm stainless steel screws/nuts, so it sits very firm and secure.

Let me know what you think so far - please look back a few pages to have a looky at the original 10" LCD attempt, which was abandoned due to reflection issues et al.

Br,
MrBean

Last edited by mrbean_phillip; 04-11-2009 at 08:27 PM..
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:03 AM   #156
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Quote: Originally Posted by mrbean_phillip View Post
Let me know what you think so far - please look back a few pages to have a looky at the original 10" LCD attempt, which was abandoned due to reflection issues et al.

Br,
MrBean

Nicely done; that's going to be very classy. I'm impressed with your craftsmanship.

I wish they'd import your ute to the USA -- I'd have one in a flash. With the exception of a single Subaru model, there's nothing remotely comparable here.
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:23 AM   #157
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Thanx Rd, appreciated

Yeah, these things are monsters - mine has about 500hp on the wheels, or 600 at the engine - with only upping the boost, there are a few around doing 550hp+ on the wheels - and then again, going forged H-beam rods, and a few extras, guys are running 650+ HP at the wheels....

Ouch. Mine's a handfull as it is, and one has to be careful on a dampy rd, even at 80-90mph she'll loose traction when planting the right foot - torque is huge....on dry tarmac, she'll let rip at 70mph, firing up the rears if you plant it.

Just hoping to get the carputer finalized soon now, as the damn fascia/bezel is made out of PPE, and extremely difficult to get anything to bond with it....
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:35 AM   #158
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Quote: Originally Posted by mrbean_phillip View Post
. . . the damn fascia/bezel is made out of PPE, and extremely difficult to get anything to bond with it....

I feel your pain. My bezel is polyethylene, and the solution for me was to buy the KC Welder Pro plastic welding system from Urethane Supply. After a little practice, I can weld pretty acceptably with it, and it appears that the finished product will work well. The system welds both PE and PP very nicely. If you go this route, get a powerful fan; the fumes can be toxic.

You can usually buy raw sheet material from plastics suppliers. All we need is their scraps, and sometimes they can be had pretty reasonably.

Painting plastics is a whole separate issue. I've used Krylon Fusion successfully.
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:55 AM   #159
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Thanx Mate, I will look into the plastic welding option, the only one open for me.....to be honest, I have considered it after the last attempt with the 10" endeavour, so I should go for it - problem is to find PPE here in Land Down Under......I picked up a nice sheet of 2mm thick ABS, 1.6x2.5m, but need the PPE.

So, let the search begin.....

I will most likely go the Krylon Fusion mode too Seems it sticks to anything plastic.....
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:21 AM   #160
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Quote: Originally Posted by mrbean_phillip View Post
. . . problem is to find PPE here in Land Down Under......I picked up a nice sheet of 2mm thick ABS, 1.6x2.5m, but need the PPE.

So, let the search begin.....

Since PPE is PP-based, I would suspect plain old PP would weld to it, so you might just try welding a piece of your scrap to something like the PP containers that are all over -- at least they're all over the U.S. I don't know what recycle markings appear on containers in Oz, but they're frequently marked here. Some have heavy-enough walls that they might be good filler material, or, cut in narrow strips, good welding rod material. I've seen square PP pails with relatively heavy walls (I think cat food was sold in the one I had), so they could be a good source of flat material.

Although I wouldn't try to make a finished product with it, a high-power soldering gun can give you an approximation of the weld, at least for testing.

I've also tried hot air welding, but found it a tough go. That tool is going to decorate a shelf from now on; I don't think I'm likely to bother with it again.

There are also ultrasonic tools, but I think they're beyond my price range for the limited use I have. The US$65 for the KC Welder Pro wasn't bad, and it does the job well. They also have a lower-power non-"Pro" model, but I never have to wait for the Pro system to get back to temperature, so I think the few extra bucks was worth it. I've used it on some non-carPC projects, too, including repairing a water tank.

The Urethane Supply website is loaded with information, and may be a good resource on what welds to PPE. If you can make a call on a webphone, they're very helpful and knowledgeable.

"polypropylene welding".
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:56 PM   #161
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Oops -> mine is actually PPO, Poly-phenylene Oxide

So, I hope that welding will still work....
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:02 PM   #162
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Quote: Originally Posted by mrbean_phillip View Post
Oops -> mine is actually PPO, Poly-phenylene Oxide

So, I hope that welding will still work....

Hmmmm -- that does make a difference, so I googled "Polyphenylene Oxide welding". The Handbook of Adhesives and Sealants says "PPOs are usually joined by solvent cementing or thermal welding", and names some solvents, but says the joints must mate almost perfectly to be strong. The Handbook of Plastics Technologies says that "Unmodified PPO can be welded at hot plate temperatures of 343°C", where modified PPO welds at lower temperatures. But I believe hot plate welding is very different from the sort we'd do with the KC Welder Pro.

It might be good to send the guys at Urethane Supply an email and see what they recommend.
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Last edited by rdholtz; 04-11-2009 at 10:37 PM.. Reason: Added information
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:43 AM   #163
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Thanx, will do - this is the same problem I ran into before, so I guess at the end of the day I will have to do the bondo/fiberglass thing
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:52 AM   #164
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God I love the Ford Tornado..... It sucks that America doesn't get the cars the rest of the world does, and when we do get a car from there (the Ford Focus name), we get a uglified version (2008 American Ford Focus)...... Thankfully there bringing the euro version to America.... Anyways I never knew what car you drove mrbean, if I had I would have left a comment a long time ago.

I know that the MAC Mini is small, but there isn't too much for it when it comes to CarPC apps. People that boot Windows are basically using a middle man, so of course its going to take longer, and still stuff isn't guaranteed to work. I'm glad you went with a Windows based install. Your setup is very impressive, and that engine work, wooooffff. What I would do to have something done like that to my truck. In fact, you have a P/M.
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:43 AM   #165
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@ HiJackZX1: Hehe - I tell you, I just take it for a spin every so often, of course taking a change of clean undies with in the cubbyhole -> for the Wife -> that's why the OC had to be relocated, to make space for those......

But yeah, pity you guys can't get it therem it sure is a nice performer for the money you spend.....

Thanx for the feedback!

I didn't see a PM though, you sure you send one?

ps: Anyway, couple years ago you guys had the Ford SVT pick-up - and that was quick in itself? Surely you could get one of those and blow it out of proportion with a pair of nice Turbonetics T60's?

Would be bags of fun.....
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