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Thread: Broken antenna

  1. #1
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Edit: Fixed antenna

    So I was trying to change the bracket on my new D-Link DWL-AG530. I say new because this is the second one I've had (the previous one broke as well). This time I had only CAREFULLY pulled back the heat shrink they have attaching the antenna cable to this support post when the antenna came off. The solder points are very small and the connector does not even go through the board. It is just soldered to the surface. My question is:

    How do I get this


    Soldered back onto here


    The places I have to solder are very small and I have no idea how I will resolder the point that is in the middle.

    Thanks for any helpful hints.
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Nobody?
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate
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    There are special soldering irons that use heated air to solder stuff like this. If all you have is a normal soldering iron, try this:

    1. Remove as much solder as you can from the connector and the corresponding solder points on the board. Use a desoldering 'sucker' or solder wick.
    2. Apply a small amount of solder onto the centre pin of the connector. You want to create a small solder bump on the pin so that it sticks out slightly from the 4 "supports".
    3. Apply solder onto the corresponding pad on the board - it looks like a through hole so make sure to apply enough solder to fill the hole completely and have some leftover to create a small solder bump above the surface of the board.
    4. Place the connector on the board and align it so that the pins on the connector line up correctly with the pads on the board. The solder bump on the contre pin of the connector should be touching the corresponding solder bump on the pad- this will lift up the connector slightly above the surface of the board.
    5. Heat up the pad on the OPPOSITE side of the board - this will melt the solder through the hole and the solder bump on the centre pin. When this happens, the connector will seat nicely onto the board. Remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool down. After a few seconds, the connector should be held firmly in place by its centre pin.
    6. Check that the the remaining 4 'supports' of the connector are still aligned to the corresponding pads on the board. Solder these supports to the board - don't put too much solder on each contact to avoid forming a solder ball under the connector which could short to the centre pin.

  4. #4
    FLAC DodgeCummins's Avatar
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    If you use a butane torch heater, and some of that 'solder tape?'...

    The stuff sticks to the part, and the torch heats it up to flow the connection.

    OR you could simply solder two wires to the board, then the same wires to the connector...then glue the part down after it is all soldered together.

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shchua
    There are special soldering irons that use heated air to solder stuff like this. If all you have is a normal soldering iron, try this:

    1. Remove as much solder as you can from the connector and the corresponding solder points on the board. Use a desoldering 'sucker' or solder wick.
    2. Apply a small amount of solder onto the centre pin of the connector. You want to create a small solder bump on the pin so that it sticks out slightly from the 4 "supports".
    3. Apply solder onto the corresponding pad on the board - it looks like a through hole so make sure to apply enough solder to fill the hole completely and have some leftover to create a small solder bump above the surface of the board.
    4. Place the connector on the board and align it so that the pins on the connector line up correctly with the pads on the board. The solder bump on the contre pin of the connector should be touching the corresponding solder bump on the pad- this will lift up the connector slightly above the surface of the board.
    5. Heat up the pad on the OPPOSITE side of the board - this will melt the solder through the hole and the solder bump on the centre pin. When this happens, the connector will seat nicely onto the board. Remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool down. After a few seconds, the connector should be held firmly in place by its centre pin.
    6. Check that the the remaining 4 'supports' of the connector are still aligned to the corresponding pads on the board. Solder these supports to the board - don't put too much solder on each contact to avoid forming a solder ball under the connector which could short to the centre pin.
    Thanks for the responses. I just got done with it. The solder joints are much stronger than the originals. Still need to test to see if it works now. Fingers crossed. Another question I had was is that a MMCX connector? I want to get different antenna for this card. Appreciate you help.
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Okay, so now I am testing it and I'm not sure if this is a problem with the card or something else in my setup. Windows keeps popping up the balloon saying click here to see available networks. I click it, see my wireless network, select to connect to it, click the connect button, and then nothing. Then the balloon comes back and we start over again. Any ideas?
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  7. #7
    Constant Bitrate
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    First off, yes, that is a MMCX connector. The cable will actually "unplug" from the base connector. As for your next question; did you install the drivers for the board BEFORE installing the board itself? Have you checked your LAN connection settings in network properties? TCPIP etc.?
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  8. #8
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Checked LAN settings. Right now there is no WEP or anything that should stop the connection. My laptop is connecting just fine to the wireless connection. Is there something else I should check?
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  9. #9
    Maximum Bitrate sfay93's Avatar
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    Okay, so I finally broke down and called D-Link tech support. After half an hour of painfully going over everything I had already tried, they had me go into my router and disable the 4X mode and set the preamble to short. Not sure what this does as I am not very keen on the wireless network stuff yet. I just know enough to get myself into trouble occasionally and then back out. LOL
    7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
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  10. #10
    FLAC DodgeCummins's Avatar
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    XP has a lot of built in wireless network stuff to make life better...however that may be your problem.

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