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Thread: 2006 PT Cruiser -Mac Mini

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    great job on a very clean install. i can't wait to see how your LCD cleanup goes.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate zapwizard's Avatar
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    I rebuilt the button PCBs so that I now have Up, Down, Left, Right, Enter, and Esc.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    I got my Carnetix 1900 power supply installed.
    I wired a switch that allows me to select a 6-second, or 15-minute timer till sleep mode.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    All the parts are finally installed.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    The entire car PC is now up and running.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Before my next road trip I will probably install a boost mobile handset for live internet.
    For now I can dial up using my Sprint phone, or pull into someplace with WIFI.

  3. #13
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    would you show in more detail how you've covered your switch PCBs with the acrylic pieces?
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate zapwizard's Avatar
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    There is not much detail to show on that.
    The back of the acrylic was covered with some very thin, and VERY strong double sticky tape, the acrylic is just held onto the top of the buttons with this tape. It actually works very well, the tape holds up to the heat, and doesn't fall off. yet I can take the buttons off for cleaning or service, replace the tape and push them back on.
    The buttons are just springy enough that it works kind of like a hat-switch. I press the right-most side for right, the top-most edge for up, and the bottom-most edge for down.
    Sorry, I don't know where to buy it or what kind of tape it is, I just have a friend who can get it.

    I used a thicker 3M molding tape to hold the LCD in place, and a few other parts.
    Other parts I used velcro with industrial adhesive (Black backed, not grey adhesive) I find it doesn't turn to goop in the Texas heat.

  5. #15
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    i think that explains what i was looking for. So there aren't any separations on the acrylic piece for each switch, there's just enough freedom to actuate one without the others. I've been thinking about ways to do what you've done. I think your method is very clean. I'll be interested to see how it holds up over time.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate zapwizard's Avatar
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    Those acrylic pieces were cut by hand, and while they look ok, I plan on getting some laser cut in the future. At that point I will probably etch logos for each function into the back of the acrylic.

  7. #17
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    Very nice install as usual Zap. You always have some nice little touches and twists on the usual ideas. Well done.

    Can you tell me what program your cell is connecting to in the Mac? I am running OS X but have Parallels so I could run some Windows stuff. I am looking for wired control of making and receiving calls via the Mac Mini but there doesn't seem to be much out there. Bluephone Elite 2 isn't ready for prime time yet.

  8. #18
    Constant Bitrate zapwizard's Avatar
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    My phone doesn't have bluetooth, and I can't mac calls through the Mac Mini
    I use the phone for internet connectivity when WIFI isn't around.
    I followed a guide similar to this one:
    http://www.sonosphere.com/Resources/SprintPCSVision/

    -------------------------

    Update on the project log, I have my camera tested, and should have it fully wired this weekend.


  9. #19
    Low Bitrate thanassius's Avatar
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    Could you provide any more info on how you wired the 6 second/15 min shutdown switch to the P1900? That's a really good idea, and I want to try to replicate it.
    iDub Status:

    99.99% -- It's alive!!!...the extra .01% is because it'll never be completely "done."

  10. #20
    Constant Bitrate zapwizard's Avatar
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    The 6-second/15 minute switch is a jumper inside the P1900.
    It is either shorted, or not shorted.
    All I did was run two wires from the jumper out to a on/off switch in my glove box.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    I haven't updated in a while for a few reasons...my camera LCD broke, and I have been busy, but here is an update on the rear-view camera.

    I changed my camera to a model that I acquired (I don't know the brand or model) But it had a Sharp chipset inside that had a pin that enabled mirror mode, it was wide angle, had a case, but the low light isn't as good as my old camera, but I can live with that.

    I installed a composite to VGA converter between my Mac Mini and Liliput LCD
    I made a simple circuit that turns the converter on when I back-up, but it needs some tweaking before I post it.

    I like that the converter has TV without needing to use a cumbersome TV program on OSX, it even has a scan button the remote that does the auto-scan without menus, perfect for finding TV in a new area while traveling.
    It was $40 at fry's and is made by a company called Mac...something very generic. It looks identical to the Avermedia TVBox7 http://www.aver.com/mpd/tvbox7.html which was $10 more.
    Fry's sells that one too, I may buy it tomorrow and see if the color quality is any better.

    Photos once my camera is fixed.

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