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Thread: 1997 Ford Taurus LX Install, follow along kiddies...

  1. #21
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Power supply/SSC questions...

    For my purposes (look at the specs above) would these work?

    SSC - http://store.mp3car.com/Micro_Shutdo..._p/pwr-007.htm

    Power supply, it's been recommended to go with the OPUS units:

    180w - http://www.opussolutions.com/index.php?p=product&id=54
    320w - http://www.opussolutions.com/index.php?p=product&id=49

    but are there any other suggestions before going right on into these?
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  2. #22
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    what about this from opus:

    http://www.opussolutions.com/index.php?p=product&id=33

    This would solve a few problems at once.

    Where to get it? (No Buy-Here button on the web page)

    This seems to integrate the SSC, PSU, and case in one package, so all i do is put my mobo, HD, and cd-drive on in it, and I'd be pretty good to go. (mounted on top of my Sub box...maybe)

    What do you guys think?
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  3. #23
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    All the opus PSU's you linked to, have SDC built in. And the mp3car store has them, but Opus should allow you to buy it.

    I think they are just updating the website, because if you go to the 320W: http://www.opussolutions.com/index.php?p=product&id=49

    there is still the buy now button where it should be on all of them. So they are definately messing around with the site right now.
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  4. #24
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    it was the opusdirect website i couldn't find it on, there were only ITX cases, (i have an ATX mobo) and that is the one I'd be interested in, it would save a lot of fab time, (i know there are many atx cases out there, but this has the vibe damping for car pc applications...)

    But, i'll be more focused on my remote start the next few days anyways...
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  5. #25
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    i had a thought today while postulating what to do for a case.

    I want something that could fairly easily be removed (if I wanted to) and fairly small for a full size ATX mobo, and I came to think I could fit the components in a car audio amp case.

    Why not? it is designed for high heat situations, and already has terminals for power and ground wires and it's fused too. I could stuff all the components into a medium to large size amp case after it's all gutted. I'd leave out the CD drive, and use only external drives, and may look at a laptop HDD (better for in car use and smaller.) I'd of course find some way to cool and vent everything, probably mount everything to the top of the amp case, and install fans on the bottom cover. (the puter would be oriented upside down) and place the PSU and HDD on the bottom cover. Also I'd run the VGA cable through a female connector i'd install on the case. This way it could be mounted the best way to fit in the amp. Also, it would look like a "crappy" amp and would most likely not be a temptation to be stolen. This whole thing would be mounted on the sub box, where my current amp is located, and my current amp relocated to the top of the box. (I'll show pics soon of this.)

    Anybody tried this and failed? comments?
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  6. #26
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
    i had a thought today while postulating what to do for a case.

    I want something that could fairly easily be removed (if I wanted to) and fairly small for a full size ATX mobo, and I came to think I could fit the components in a car audio amp case.

    Why not? it is designed for high heat situations, and already has terminals for power and ground wires and it's fused too. I could stuff all the components into a medium to large size amp case after it's all gutted. I'd leave out the CD drive, and use only external drives, and may look at a laptop HDD (better for in car use and smaller.) I'd of course find some way to cool and vent everything, probably mount everything to the top of the amp case, and install fans on the bottom cover. (the puter would be oriented upside down) and place the PSU and HDD on the bottom cover. Also I'd run the VGA cable through a female connector i'd install on the case. This way it could be mounted the best way to fit in the amp. Also, it would look like a "crappy" amp and would most likely not be a temptation to be stolen. This whole thing would be mounted on the sub box, where my current amp is located, and my current amp relocated to the top of the box. (I'll show pics soon of this.)

    Anybody tried this and failed? comments?
    Check out the Ampie/VoomPC or Ampie2/VoomPC2 case. It is just this. But for ITX. Houses optical drive, mobo, 2 harddrives, and a M2. So for a full atx board, you will need to find a big amp, but it will work. May even be able to make the amp casing a huge cpu heatsink.
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  7. #27
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    that's another reason I was thinking about using these. there are some rockford amps that are broken on ebay for a few bucks. That's why i'd mount the motherboard to the top of the amp, it would be right on the heatsink. Meaning a small fan and exhaust port should be enough to keep it cool.
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  8. #28
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Today, I have the opportunity to install my remote start system, I'll post a write up on how I did it later today. Also, I will start constructing my fiberglass sub box. Here's a diagram of the MDF, then I will stretch the fleece over it, and start work on glassing it. (Glassing may not happen until saturday though.)

    Diagram:


    In the end this box will have an estimated internal volume of about 1.3 Cu Ft per side, which is kind of big for a 12, but with the curves, the internal volume will be a little less, hopefully around 1.1 to 1.2

    I'll post a write up on this as well, it will be located in the fabrication forum, look for it there soon.

    Now it's off to the depot for a few supplies!
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  9. #29
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Okay, all of a sudden, not feeling so great , going to take the afternoon off, so no box frame today.
    I did finish the remote start though, and i've decided not to post a write up, i didn't take any pictures anyways. Pics for sure on saturday when I build the box.
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  10. #30
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    ok, something i noticed about my car after installing remote start:
    I have two accessory wires. I wired the remote start into the main one, leaving out the second one (need relays, etc.)
    What this means is that I can wire the carputer to the main accesory wire, and the deck and screen to the secondary one. When I start the car, the computer starts to turn on, but will not display anything or play any music (I'll have RR default to pause on resume) and when I get in the car and put my key in, the CD Deck and the screen will turn on, and I just press play. As soon as I get out and turn off the car, everything will start to turn off.

    This all started because I was being lazy and didn't want to wire two relays to join the two accessory wires. It turned out to be a good thing.

    I'll need more range though, the package states up to 500+ feet. I get usually about 100. Any suggestions?

    Also, I don't like the remote too much, can I program a different style one to this? Meaning any DEI remote start remote remote?
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