Thread: Mustang 2005 CarPC with stock Shaker 1000

Well Today I did remove the stock shaker 1000 headunit. Pretty much work for just removing a stereo. But no problems.

One thing I can´t see a answer to is that the amplifiers are connected by "ordinary" high cables. Or what they exactly is called. Not "low pass" cabel. Excuse my english

How do I connect those at best way?
If I do got an external sound card(not bought yet, there is still time to change) with 8 RCA outputs?!? Any better way of doing this?

I guess that If I get one of those adapters for stock headunit to a aftermarket stereo then I can connect everything else to the CarPC? And maybe draw a new constant +12V from the battery to be sure there is enough of power.

But the biggest how?!? Is the sound. How can I get it done, and ofcourse I want it to sound good to

I also bougth this:


//Daniel

IS there no one who left the Shaker 1000 system and just installed a CarPC?

//Danne

Bought:

Says that the Shaker 1000 should be working with this so I hope so.
Will try with a aftermarket unit, if that works then the computer should work to..
But when reading the wiring for Shaker 1000 there looks like only the subs are getting power from external amps.
So I don´t know and it´s seems like no one either does

-EDIT-

I didn't thouroughly read your posts; Lets try my reply again:

I don't know about the shaker 1000, but I believe it is very similar to my shaker 500.

The door subs get their power from built in amplifiers that are located behind the driver's side "kick panel". The 4 "regular" speakers are powered directly from the HU.

I *believe* the HU is where the cross-over is actually located.

As far as the "best way" of replacing it with your carPC is going to be a matter of opinion. Here is how I plan on doing it:

Use an aftermarket wiring harness like you have pictured above; HOWEVER, I might run the +12 straight from the battery instead of using the +12 available on the wiring harness since it will be powering both an amp and a carPC. I'm still debating whether I can just get away with the stock wiring, not having to mess with running a separate cable from the battery...

The line out of my mobo's sound card will be hooked up to my 4 channel amp kit I built (amp9 kit from www.41hz.com since its so small can be incorporated in the carPC dash kit). The output of the amp will be connected by the wiring harness shown above to the stock wiring which will power the 4 regular speakers.

My mobo's "sub out" will be connected to the wiring harness which heads off and connects to the stock sub amps.

The crossover will be controlled by my mobos software/drivers.

Well, thats my plan so far anyway. Hope this helps,

-Alan

FirebirdTN:
Thanks!!

I belivie your plans will be prefect!
I hoped that I could skip the amplifier for the "speakers" but I guess I need to use one anyway. I do have a old amplifier I can try with, if its working good I can get one fresh Maybe one of those amp9 kit, hard to "build"?

Should be great to have everything in the "home build stereo" .

I have seen many posts saying that it is nessesary to install a Volt Regulator on the "amp on" wire. Because the stock amps uses +5V, and ordinary stereos using +12V. I guess in my case the M2-ATX does too. If you not use one, you will get a "thump" when power on.

Im not sure I understand what you mean by "crossover".

I guess that the trunk subs get there signal from same RCAs after the aftermarket harness is installed.

So 500/1000 seems to be identical.

Thank you again!
Daniel

I helped a friend put a carpc into an '05 GT a couple years ago. We did pretty much what FirebirdTN did. You will need a seperate 4-channel amp to power the "regular" speakers. You will also have to run a +5v line to the amp that drives the subs. All we did was run a line from our existing +12v feed in the back and use a 7805 (I think that was it anyway... maybe a 7803??? it was a 78xx voltage regulator we got from radio smack...) to get the +5v.

I could kill my friend though..he took the carpc out and traded the 05 GT for an '03 Lexus 300. That GT was a MUCH better car IMO than the older lexus...but I guess he wanted to feel rich or something

Actually, I haven't even started my project yet, still planning and gathering pieces...

I'm glad I responded to this thread; I completely overlooked the "remote turn on" or whatever its called for the sub amps.

I'm just curious, why not just use a +5 lead from the carPC power supply for the turn on signal to the amp? I realize the very second the PC starts up, it will cause the sub amps to turn on, possibly causing a "thump" as the sound card drivers are loaded...Is this why everyone uses a separate regulated 5 volts?

-Alan

I think that's the reason yes. Don't quote me on it though as I was just going by how he wanted to wire it and he had most of it wired before I came into it. He apparently surfed this site for a while so I'd guess he got the idea from someone here. I was responsible for getting the OS and Frontend/GPS working smoothly.

Originally Posted by Linde

...Im not sure I understand what you mean by "crossover".

The "crossover" is where the frequencies are separated. It is what is responsible for making sure the "bass" is directed to the door subs and not the main speakers. Also, it ensures the mids/highs are directed towards the 4 regular speakers and not the subs. The crossover "point" is simply at what frequency (or musical note I guess you could say) is the "middle point". At the crossover frequency, the signal is sent equally to all speakers. Below that point, the signal is sent only to the subs, and above it it is sent only to the main speakers.

Oh, off subjet, didn't realize you were from Sweden; Thats cool-that is where the amp9 kit I bought came from!

-Alan

Thanks for all help guys!
I think I will pull do this through now.

Just to get starting...