Well, I went for it..I did a clean install of windows XP, formatted the drive in NTFS, getting rid of any mac files.......and it worked out great. Now my mac mini has just windows XP. Nice! Thanks for that tip guys..I think this will work out much better/simplier than the dualboot.
Still awaiting the arrival of my screen though. I ordered from digitalWW, since MP3car was out of stock at the time.....now I'm thinking DWW was out of stock also, just didn't have it posted being that it's taking some time. Hopefully it'll be here tomorrow..I ordered it about a week and a half ago.
It's looking very nice. I've always been tempted to get a macmini.
here's the next round of updates..
The screen never came from DWW..i ended up ordering from MP3 car late thursday and the screen came today (monday). It doesn't get much quicker than that.
the first one is a shot of what I'm working with..the Audi faceplate and the lilliput bezel
the second is just a shot of the 8" widescreen lcd taken apart..
Pic 1: The whole setup plastic welded together. As you'll see later in this set of pics, being that the bottom edge is so thin, the heat warped it a bit. This is the first time I've tried plastic welding something...seems like it's pretty solid. I'm thinking about making up some ABS sludge and filling in the voids in the back also...just for some extra strength incase the plastic welding I did didn't fuse both pieces of plastic together in a spot or 2.
Pic 2 and 3: Shows how badly the bottom warped
Being that I had to fix the bottom edge, I put the whole setup onto the audi headunit (which you can see in the picture right above this post) and redid the plastic weld on both sides and the bottom. I tried to fuse it alittle better, and add more filler plastic to smooth things out a bit.
However, this didn't solve my problem. I decided to take the heat gun and carefully heat up the bottom edge and just push it back in place. This worked out pretty good, and overall I'm happy with the results. I don't want to play with it too much more only because I'm worried the edge of the bezel will start to deform.
Pic 1: I added some JB weld to the back of the very bottom edge for extra stregth. You can sort of see the grayish silver on the bottom.
Pic 2: Shows how much it straighten out by heating it back up and forming it again.
Pic 3: The final product for tonight.
And that's where I'm at. Tomorrow I'm going to take my dremel and roughly sand down the plastic mess I have. When I'm done with that, I'm thinkin about making up an ABS sludge and filling in the back and letting it sit overnight.
After that, I should be in the clear with the structural side of the bezel. Next I'll need to start filling, sanding, filling, sanding, etc until it's nice
Pic 1: I took my dremel with the sanding attachment and cleaned up the mess of plastic I had on there. Then I took the product pictured, and used it as a filler. This stuff dries hard, sands easy, and was nice to work with. Also, it's plyable like plastic and won't crack on you.
Pic 2: I also took this stuff and filled in some of the voids on the back for added strength.
Pic 3: Another shot of the first coat of filler
Pic 4: After the first round of sanding
Pic 1: Round 2 of filler.
I'm sure everyone pretty much gets the idea of what's going on here.. I wanted to fill in as much as I can with the epoxy I had so I had a nice solid plastic base, rather than layers of bondo. After a few rounds of filler and sanding I was pretty happy with it. So I mixed up some bondo and put on one skim layer. Pics 2 and 3 are the results after sanding, and a very light coat of primer (which I'm using just to point on the imperfections)
Next I'm going to mix up some more bondo and hit both top corners of the screen and smooth that out a bit..other than that it's pretty much good. After that final coat of bondo I'll start progressivly stepping down the sand paper grit as I sand to smooth it out, until it's ready to be primed and painted.
A bit late, but I would have suggested temporarily putting a thin piece of wood the size of the screen into the screen position that's held in place w/ double-sided tape or similar and securing it all in the DIN cage while the plastic bond worked it's magic.
I know you saw my worklog. Another thing I came across during my fabrication, in addition to what you've already experienced (bottom edge), is that the heat will possibly cause the bezel screen edge to deform and not fit right.
In my case, it bowed out and as a result, the screen would not sit flush w/ the bezel edge.
I did not see that happening and only found out during final re-assembly.
Very nice progress so far.
hahah yup, I had a similar idea after the fact. I have been fitting the screen periodically..also testing the fitment in the din cage and car..so far everything's going smoothly. I think heating it up and reshaping it helped out alot...Though avoiding the situation all together would have been better haha