Thread: Scion xB '06, in-dash Atom 330, Lilliput 889GL; details, pictures, links. Index: pg 1

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

I wouldnt be surprised if its the hubs themselves, I had Targus hubs also and had to replace them.

Boy, I hope the problem isn't the hubs, but I'm certainly open to replacing them.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Good luck with the M2-ATX, I had a bad experience with it, but a lot of people seem to use it without issues.

I've read mixed reviews on the M2-ATX, but I got the impression that people were using it at the upper end of its capacity, and then complaining it was inadequate. Realistically, it isn't a good idea to use things at their maximum; I chose the M2-ATX because it's rated up to 160W, and I was going to use less than half of that. With the EeePC and most low-power boards, we won't come close to taxing it unless we hang a helluva lot of peripherals off it.

Your car is way out on the upper end in power usage, and I think you'd want a couple of PSUs, at least. I can understand why the M2-ATX wasn't the best choice for your application. My installation is a baby, compared to yours, and I'm hoping it will be as good with the EeePC as it was with the 25W board I used in the last installation.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

rdholtz, are you going to the Florida meet on Feb 22nd?

No, I won't be down there. I'm in Atlanta for a while, and can't make it. Actually, it looks like I'll be moving my base of operations from Florida to Atlanta. Sad to leave the tropical weather behind, but my family is up here, and I really like 'em, so staying around here seems like a good idea.

Originally Posted by rdholtz

Boy, I hope the problem isn't the hubs, but I'm certainly open to replacing them.



I've read mixed reviews on the M2-ATX, but I got the impression that people were using it at the upper end of its capacity, and then complaining it was inadequate. Realistically, it isn't a good idea to use things at their maximum; I chose the M2-ATX because it's rated up to 160W, and I was going to use less than half of that. With the EeePC and most low-power boards, we won't come close to taxing it unless we hang a helluva lot of peripherals off it.

Your car is way out on the upper end in power usage, and I think you'd want a couple of PSUs, at least. I can understand why the M2-ATX wasn't the best choice for your application. My installation is a baby, compared to yours, and I'm hoping it will be as good with the EeePC as it was with the 25W board I used in the last installation.



No, I won't be down there. I'm in Atlanta for a while, and can't make it. Actually, it looks like I'll be moving my base of operations from Florida to Atlanta. Sad to leave the tropical weather behind, but my family is up here, and I really like 'em, so staying around here seems like a good idea.

You are right, I was using the M2-ATX in the wrong way..... its funny because now that I have become more keen on the way the power setup work. i am no longer using more then half of the OPUS 320. Instead I went the route of everything being connected directly to the battery and having it all activated via a simple relay connected to the PSU. Only the PC and its USB devices are connected. Even all the fans are through direct battery power. Doing that makes the fans spin faster, cooling the system fast and to lower tempatures.

How much different is the weather for ATL? Well you gotta do what makes you happy.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

You are right, I was using the M2-ATX in the wrong way..... its funny because now that I have become more keen on the way the power setup work. i am no longer using more then half of the OPUS 320. Instead I went the route of everything being connected directly to the battery and having it all activated via a simple relay connected to the PSU. Only the PC and its USB devices are connected. Even all the fans are through direct battery power. Doing that makes the fans spin faster, cooling the system fast and to lower tempatures.

I looked around at the various DC-DC PSUs before I bought the M2-ATX. I read a few comments from people who weren't happy, but they all seemed to be from people running it at the max spec. There were plenty of comments from people who praised it. I read enough praise that I decided the M2-ATX was the most bang for the buck. I haven't been sorry.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

How much different is the weather for ATL?

Well, it's the mountains of Georgia around us, so the weather is pretty decent. We definitely have winter here -- real snow and real cold, but generally not for long periods. The last week was down into the 20's, but yesterday it was in the 60's, and today I was walking around in a T-shirt.

I never even saw frost in Florida, so that time in the 20's was pretty chilly for me. It's surprising how rapidly we can adapt to climate changes, though. Give me a few months, and I'll be very comfortable.

My greatest struggle with Atlanta is the pollen, because I stay a little stuffed up all during pollen season, which -- I think -- lasts from the first of January through the 31st of December.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Well you gotta do what makes you happy.

Yep, I like being with people I love. And being a Grampa is one of the better jobs on the face of the earth. I like having warm hearts to keep me going in the cold weather, and one of those is Josh, who got me into this whole carPC thing in the first place. It's been a fun ride.

Moving to DC Power, Part 2

I received one other important question in by PM, and it provoked some thinking:

How will the EeePC know when to shut down/start if you won't be tapping into the power button?

I'll have a switch to control power to the PC circuit, but I won't be turning the EeePC on and off all the time. I'll have to consider some way to turn off the screen -- effectively, a valet switch -- but I don't mind letting the PC run, since it's a very low-power unit that's pretty much self-managing.

I say "pretty much" self-managing because there's a possibility that an application could hang, and then there would be no orderly shutdown. In that case, when the EeePC's battery ran out of charge, it would simply shut off as if there had been a power failure. That can screw things up.

To avoid that, I'm considering the use of ShutControl, which ensures a fresh boot with each standby session. One of the important reasons is that it forces a shutdown and reboot, so a hanging application shouldn't affect the system.

So now I think all I'll need is a way to tell the system to go to standby. It currently does that with a magnetic "latch" when I close the case, so I'd need to get a switch to duplicate that function or an on-screen button. Hmmmm . . .

Originally Posted by rdholtz

Moving to DC Power, Part 2

I received one other important question in by PM, and it provoked some thinking:



I'll have a switch to control power to the PC circuit, but I won't be turning the EeePC on and off all the time. I'll have to consider some way to turn off the screen -- effectively, a valet switch -- but I don't mind letting the PC run, since it's a very low-power unit that's pretty much self-managing.

I say "pretty much" self-managing because there's a possibility that an application could hang, and then there would be no orderly shutdown. In that case, when the EeePC's battery ran out of charge, it would simply shut off as if there had been a power failure. That can screw things up.

To avoid that, I'm considering the use of ShutControl, which ensures a fresh boot with each standby session. One of the important reasons is that it forces a shutdown and reboot, so a hanging application shouldn't affect the system.

So now I think all I'll need is a way to tell the system to go to standby. It currently does that with a magnetic "latch" when I close the case, so I'd need to get a switch to duplicate that function or an on-screen button. Hmmmm . . .

Isnt there a way to tap into the screens on/off switch. What I mean is, my Gateway Laptop has a tiny little push button and when I close the lid, the button is pressed and the screen shuts off, but the PC stays on. Maybe the EEE has it also? Also alot of Laptops have a setup where when the battery is about to die it starts to shut down the PC on its own. Infact I think the OPUS does the same thing, if voltage drops to low, it will put the PC into hibernation or shut off. Not sure if the M2-ATX does, but I am sure it does.

Moving to DC Power, Part 2 -- continued

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Isnt there a way to tap into the screens on/off switch. What I mean is, my Gateway Laptop has a tiny little push button and when I close the lid, the button is pressed and the screen shuts off, but the PC stays on. Maybe the EEE has it also?

No, there's no standby pushbutton on the EeePC. It apparently uses a magnetic switch that operates as the screen is closed. WraithJ says the switch can be disabled by removing the plate, or I suspect that same circuit could be connected to a dash-mounted standby switch. If I did that, the dash-mounted switch would put the machine in standby, and that would kill the screen, so it would be perfect for a valet situation (although I never let anyone I don't know -- and trust implicitly -- drive my car). I won't mess with the power switch, but this is pretty close to the same thing.

As I said in an earlier post, the EeePC has a huge advantage in that it's a 3W power draw, so it can sit in standby for days and be just fine.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Also a lot of Laptops have a setup where when the battery is about to die it starts to shut down the PC on its own. In fact I think the OPUS does the same thing, if voltage drops too low, it will put the PC into hibernation or shut off. Not sure if the M2-ATX does . . .

The EeePC has that, and the M2-ATX does, too. That's why I like the idea of ShutControl software to manage that function; it senses a change in the state of the machine's power source (the M2-ATX) and forces a shutdown and reboot to standby.

Moving to DC Power, Part 3

The M2-ATX came with a complete wiring harness, but I don't need most of it for a netbook. The standard M2-ATX harness comes with 2 ATX connectors, one end for the M2-ATX, and the other for the motherboard. But,to use the it with the EeePC, I would have to cut that standard harness apart. I only need one ATX connector -- the M2-ATX end -- because I'm not plugging it into a motherboard. I just need power plugs for the EeePC and its peripherals. I decided not to cut up the original harness in case I decide to re-use the M2-ATX differently some time later.

I'm getting smarter about this. I revise my plan so often that I've stopped throwing parts away. Now I stick 'em in a box for use on another revision, or another project, or on someone else's project.

I don't chop up wiring any more than I have to, either. For instance, when I moved the head unit down, I simply extended the wires. If I ever move the headunit back to its original location, I'll just swing the wires back up; there will be extra wire, but I won't have to do any soldering.

To keep from cutting up the M2-ATX harness for this more limited use, I cut the wires off a dead ATX power supply. In digging through the dead power supplies at the computer store, I was surprised to find different wire sizes. Most used 20-gauge wire, but one -- a 350W unit -- used 18-gauge wire. I figure bigger wire is safer, and I chose the one with 18-gauge wire. So I could get maximum length on the wires, I took the case apart and cut them as close to the PSU board as possible.

The ATX plug will go into the M2-ATX, and the other ends of the wires will get discreet plugs for the EeePC and peripherals.

Below is a diagram of the pin usage on standard ATX power supply connectors, from www.helpwithpcs.com

To power a netbook or laptop, all we need are +12V and ground. But, because I want separate power for peripherals, I'll also use three +5V lines and three more ground lines. On the salvaged ATX connector, I'll eliminate all but eight wires: one yellow +12V, three red +5V, and four black grounds. Instead of removing all the other wires and contacts from the connector, I just cut the wires as deeply into the connector housing as I could, and painted the stumps with Liquid Electrical Tape, which is available at Home Depot and hardware stores.

Now I have to split the 12V line and get connectors for the ends. That's next . . .

Moving to DC Power, Part 4

Okay, we have the ATX connector wires trimmed down. Now it's time to work out the other ends of the wires. I expect this to be completely plug-and-play when we're done.

+5V Connections

I'll connect the red 5V lines and their ground lines to power plugs for the two Targus PAUH210U 4-port hubs and the ByteCC external 2.5-inch USB hard drive enclosure. That will mean the USB peripherals won't have to use power from the EeePC, except in standby mode when the M2-ATX has shut off the car's power to them.

For the power plugs, I stopped at my local Radio Shack on the way back from work. I found a coaxial solder-mount plug with a screw-on housing that Radio Shack calls an "H" plug: 3.5mm OD and 1.3mm ID (see image below). The plugs are part number 274-1571, and they come in packages of two for $2.99 and tax.

This "H" plug uses the same lettering system as Radio Shack's AdaptaPlug series, but I avoided the AdaptaPlugs because I want permanent joints all along the wires from connector to connector; the AdaptaPlug system has a too-easily-disconnected interface that adds nothing to this installation, and the plugs are much more expensive. For example, where the solder-attached "H" plugs are 2 for $2.99, a single "H" adaptaPlug male end is $6.99, and I'd still need the female plug it connects to, which is $3.99.

Once the +5V plugs are soldered on, I'll have power ready for the peripherals. But, before I heat up the soldering gun, I need to get the +12V wiring set up. That's next.

Moving to DC Power, Part 5

With the +5V peripheral power circuits ready to solder, it's time to get the +12V connections made.

+12V Connections
I've been thinking I'll want to power other 12V accessories through the M2-ATX, such as the radar detector and perhaps an inkjet printer. Since there's a single +12V line coming out of the ATX connector, I'll have to use a distribution block. I'll use the same wire colors for easy identification throughout the PC system: yellow for the +12V line and black for ground lines.

Downstream from the distribution block, I'll connect one of the yellow 12V lines and one of the ground lines to a power plug for the EeePC. Power lines for the other accessories will be wired to the distribution block as they get installed.

Since I don't want to chop up the original EeePC 110V power supply, I need another power plug. The EeePC power plug is the RadioShack "C" size (4.75mm OD x 1.7 ID). I wanted to buy a pair of "C" connectors (but not the AdaptaPlug version); one I'd solder to the 12V line and ground from the distribution block, and the other I'd solder to a cigarette plug I have on hand. That second one would produce an instant car charger -- to eliminate the inverter until I get the M2-ATX installed.

The intent was have a system that would cost less than using the AdaptaPlug and would eliminate an unwanted disconnect point in the line. Unfortunately, Radio Shack only sells the "C" connector in its AdaptaPlug line, not separately like the "H" connector I used for the +5V lines.

I had to try and find it elsewhere, or reluctantly go with the AdaptaPlug. I could order an EeePC 901 cigarette adapter online, but they all seem to be coming from Hong Kong or the UK, so the shipping would take a while.

As a last resort, I dug through the box of old wall adapters at the computer store. Sure enough, there was one -- just one -- with a plug that fits. I'll cut that off and use it.

Now it's time to get all these connections ready to solder, and to find a distribution block.