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Thread: Scion xB '06, in-dash Atom 330, Lilliput 889GL; details, pictures, links. Index: pg 1

  1. #1
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Scion xB '06, in-dash Atom 330, Lilliput 889GL; details, pictures, links. Index: pg 1

    This system started out with a PC under the passenger seat, changed to an EeePC netbook sitting in the dash, and now has transitioned to an in-dash PC with Intel Atom board and an 8-inch Lilliput 889GL. Development of the in-dash PC starts about post #472.

    Guide to this Thread:

    Adhesives -- Posts 588-589, 591
    Aluminized Steel -- Posts 83, 84
    Battery, Auxiliary Batteries, Isolator Circuit, Wiring Box -- Post 581, 712-713, 722-725, 728-730, 747-753, 755-757, 759-793, 795, 797-800, 842-888, 907-910, 913, 922-923, 925-928
    Bezel Modification -- Posts 3, 10-11, 13-17, 22, 30-31, 50, 55, 206, 208, 224-225, 523
    Carpets and Floor Mats -- Posts 890-891
    Case & Chassis Design, Fabrication & Assembly -- Posts 2, 8, 27, 69, 483, 494-7, 505-522, 529-532, 540-543, 547-550, 559, 561, 564-573, 585-593, 616-618, 625-631, 640-645, 647-648, 654, 659, 664-670, 674, 676-681, 690-691, 695-696, 704-705, 709-711, 929, 1081-1083
    Centrafuse -- Posts 270-271, 299, 301-302, 304-305, 313-318, 328-330, 345, 358, 371, 465-466
    Cooling - Posts 497-504, 583-584, 931-944
    Dash Modification -- Post 834-831
    Double-DIN Dimensions -- Post 505
    Dual-Lock Fastening -- Posts 153-155
    DVD Player -- Posts 3, 40, 89, 96-97, 119, 210, 251, 984-994
    Edge Protection -- Post 804
    EeePC -- Posts 194-207, 209, 223, 226, 272-275, 291-293, 343, 345, 347, 349-350, 355, 358, 361, 389, 391, 397, 400, 402, 422, 425, 472
    External Monitor Mount for Josh -- Posts 319-320, 333, 340-342, 344, 346, 348, 352
    Fans -- Post 586, 648-652, 931-944, 964-967, 969, 1119-1124
    Fasteners -- Post 805
    Foam Tape -- Posts 151-152
    Google Sketchup -- Posts 621-622
    GPS -- Posts 262-264, 266-269, 275, 464, 1047
    Hard Drive and Mount Fabrication -- Posts 5, 64, 631, 633-639, 660-663,
    Head Unit Relocation -- Posts 3, 25, 40-42, 80-83, 85-88, 90-91, 94-95, 98-102, 105-111,114-119, 123-124, 126-128, 132, 137-140, 142-144, 151-156
    Hot Glue -- Post 366
    Installation -- Posts 1007-1016, 1019-1028, 1035-1038, 1047-1048, 1056-1060, 1080, 1094-1098, 1133-1134
    Interior Lighting -- Post 386-388, 391, 397, 408
    iPhone -- Posts 464-465, 472
    Keyboard, Mouse, Joystick -- Posts 18, 217-218, 275, 300, 302, 307, 321, 324-325, 327-328, 376-377, 380, 457-462, 467-471, 484, 490-492, 1046
    Lilliput 10.4 Complete Screen Dimensions -- Post 53
    Lilliput 889GL Complete Screen Dimensions -- Post 552
    M2-ATX DC-DC Power Supply -- Posts 64, 69, 77, 148, 211-212, 223, 283, 285, 358, 410-421
    Materials & Sources -- Posts 523-526, 581-582, 724, 726
    Metalworking Tools -- Posts 603-617
    Moving -- Posts 446-448, 456
    NVidia Ion -- Post 482
    OBD-II -- Post 265
    Overhead Console -- Posts 376, 383-386, 403-409
    Paint, Finishes and Corrosion-Proofing -- Posts 2, 46-47, 190, 193, 335, 337-338, 340, 352, 354, 804, 857
    Parallel-to-USB Converter -- Post 27
    PC Location, PC Mount Fabrication -- Posts 2, 72-73, 198
    Phone Linking -- Posts 423-424, 426-427, 440-441, 449-450, 452, 454
    Plastic Welding -- Posts 16-17, 19-21, 31, 56, 58, 60-61
    Polyethylene Adhesives -- Post 50
    Polyethylene Sources -- Posts 17, 21, 30-31, 59
    Pop Rivets -- Posts 614, 621, 627
    Power Adapter (110V to 12V) -- Posts 75, 666
    Power Cable Pinout Diagram -- Posts 418, 818
    Power Supply -- Posts 645-646, 655-658
    Preamplifier -- Posts 1136-1138, 1141
    Printer installation -- Posts 227, 238-240
    Punching Tool -- Posts 158, 159, 161-164, 579-580, 1083
    Radar Detectors -- Posts 372-377, 379-385
    RoadRunner -- Posts 270-271, 275-279, 281, 299, 301, 305, 309-310, 314-316, 318
    Sandbags -- Post 57
    Screen Button Placement -- Posts 25, 52
    Screen Concealment -- Posts 173-177, 180, 182-192
    Screen Glare -- Posts 54, 181, 197, 275, 370
    Screen Light -- Post 306
    Screen Location and Mount Fabrication -- Posts 3, 9, 35-38, 40, 43-47, 54, 193
    Seat Removal -- Post 720-721
    Sheet Metal Fabrication -- Posts 2, 5, 8, 37-38, 43-47, 80-88, 90-91, 98-102, 105-109, 113-116, 119, 126-128, 132, 151, 860, 869
    Slotted Parts -- Posts 43, 54, 100, 101, 105, 111, 113, 115-117, 119, 124, 127-129, 132, 143, 151, 153, 157-159, 161-172, 547
    Shower Stall -- Posts 221, 533-539
    Software -- Posts 65, 183, 199-204, 228-230, 234-237, 241-244, 247-8, 252-261, 275-279, 281, 299, 301, 305, 309-310, 314-316, 318, 371, 456, 671-673, 675, 682-684, 687-689, 697-701, 703
    Soldering and Soldering Tools -- Posts 894-895
    Steering Wheel Audio Controls -- Posts 62-63, 114
    Switches -- Posts 2, 143-148, 281, 798, 800
    Tires & Wheels -- Post 706, 1005-1006
    Touchscreens & Tablets -- Posts 428-439, 443-445, 455, 472-481, 485-489
    Traffic Stop -- Post 736-743
    Trapster -- Post 74
    USB Ports and Hubs -- Posts 2, 3, 8, 110, 114, 143-144, 149, 151, 156, 211, 213-216, 275, 814, 819-824, 966-967, 1087, 1092-1093
    Velcro Fastening -- Posts 119, 132, 138, 151-153
    Video In-Car -- Posts 439-443
    Welding -- Posts 587-593
    Wiring -- Posts 715, 719, 722, 730-732, 761-802, 818-822, 842-859, 868, 871-885, 894-896, 942-945, 949-950, 972, 981-987, 992-1004, 1061-1071, 1076, 1084-1087, 1092-1093
    Wiring Box -- see Battery, Auxiliary Batteries, Wiring Box

    (There are 15 posts per page, if you use the default settings)

    About the Photos:
    Almost all images have been uploaded to the MP3Car.com site, so they're automatically sized to fit. After some experimenting, I make almost all the photos the maximum size of 1524 pixels on the longest side, and no more than 2MB in size. I try to keep them all in a width-to-height ratio of 4:3. I do the photo editing in Irfanview or Google Picasa. A few pictures are linked to manufacturer images.
    Click on images to enlarge them.

    ----------

    Current System Specifications
    Monitor: Lilliput Lilliput 889GL 8-inch touchscreen
    Chassis: Custom 4.5Hx7Wx9D 22-gauge aluminum and aluminized steel
    Power Supply: Mini-box M4-ATX
    Motherboard: Intel D945GCLF2 Atom, 6-3/4"W x 6-3/4"L
    Processor: Intel Atom 1.6GHz
    Memory: 1 GB PC5300 DDR2; to be 2GB in the future
    Drives: 120GB SATA laptop primary HD; 40GB SATA laptop secondary HD; 60GB IDE external USB laptop HD
    Audio: Intel 6-channel HDAC on mainboard
    WiFi: D-Link DWA-140B1 802.11 b/g/n
    Wireless Internet: Sprint "stick"
    Bluetooth: HP
    Keyboard (2): Interlink Versapoint + Bluetooth mini-keyboard
    Mouse: built-in on Versapoint, plus hand-held USB finger mouse as spare
    Ethernet: Gigabit Ethernet on mainboard
    USB Ports: 4 USB 2.0 ports on mainboard, and 4 mainboard-socketed ports; 5 more in dash-mounted powered hub + 4 in additional hub for future camera installation
    Optical Drive: dash-mounted tray-load DVD burner

    Previous System Specifications -- 'til Post 471:
    PC: Asus EeePC 901
    Monitor: built-in 8.9-inch LCD, 1024x600 pixels; also runs 1024x768 with autoscrolling
    Touchscreen: not yet, but in the plans as an add-on
    Processor: Intel Atom 1.6GHz
    BIOS: AMI
    Memory: 1 GB PC5400 DDR2; to be 2GB in the future
    Drives: Asus-Phison 4GB Primary SSD; Asus-Phison 16GB Secondary SSD; external USB 60Gb 2.5" HD
    Audio: built-in Intel 82801G (ICH7 Family) HDAC
    Wireless: built-in RaLink RT2790 PCIe 802.11 b/g/n
    Bluetooth: built-in
    Keyboard: built-in
    Mouse: built-in touchpad; may choose to use external USB mouse, too
    Ethernet: built-in Atheros L1e Gigabit Ethernet
    USB Ports: 3 built-in USB ports, plus added 4-port powered USB hub and 2 dash-mounted USB ports
    Optical Drive: dash-mounted combo DVD player / CD burner
    Power Supply: Mini-box M2-ATX, for shutdown and peripherals

    Original System Specifications -- 'til Post 194:
    Monitor: Lilliput or Shark 10.4" touchscreen
    Case: Custom 12"x8"x3" 22-gauge steel chassis box & 20-gauge steel cover
    Power Supply: Mini-box M2-ATX
    Motherboard: Biostar K8M800-M7A, 9-5/8"w x 7-1/2"d
    Processor: Mobile AMD Sempron 3000, 1.8GHz, 25W
    Memory: 1 Gb Crucial PC3200 DDR
    Hard Drive: 60Gb 2.5" SATA laptop
    Sound: on motherboard -- Realtek ALC655 6-Channel AC97 CODEC
    Video: on motherboard -- VIA S3 Graphics UniChrome Pro
    Optical Drive: Combo DVD player / CD burner; may elect to use a Blueray DVD reader
    Bluetooth: HP bt450 USB
    Keyboard: USB Micro Thumbpad from MP3Car
    Mouse: USB finger-mount trackball mouse -- to be mounted to shifter
    Ports: 6 in-case USB ports, 1 serial port; VIA VT6103 10/100 Ethernet
    Unused: 8x AGP slot, three PCI slots, one CNR slot.
    Wireless: (TBD -- will use Sprint or AT&T service)
    Dash-mounted 5v powered USB hub

    Software:
    OS: Windows XP Pro
    Front End: Centrafuse 3.0
    Skin: (TBD)
    GPS Software: Garmin Mobile PC
    Phone Software: CF

    Car Audio:
    Head Unit: stock Pioneer
    Speakers: stock front and rear
    Subwoofer: (TBD)
    Steering Wheel Controls: stock

    Previous Projects
    (1) A laptop holder for the xB and other cars with dash cubbyholes. How-to-build instructions are in the link.
    (2) A thread on How To Find and Hire a Fabricator for parts of the project you can't or don't want to do yourself.
    (3) A thread on Ways to Make Slots in Sheet Metal or Plastic.

    Thank You
    This worklog is an attempt to repay -- or pay forward -- some of what I've gained.

    I owe tremendous thanks to my Dad and some other mentors. Because they took the time to teach me, I'm pretty shop-savvy, so I'm comfortable that I can do most of the things I'll need to do. Skills I haven't developed yet -- like sheet metal work, fiberglass work, and plastic welding -- I figure I'll pick up working in the garage. Many of the tools I use were Dad's, and some of them have been handed down from his Dad.

    I also owe great thanks to my Mom and several good teachers over the years who taught me how to write, and to Mom, my sister and several friends who've encouraged me to keep on writing.

    Thanks, too, to the founders, moderators and posters who started and built the MP3Car forums to the tremendous resources they are. Without all the information available from those who came before me, I may never have started this project. I lurked for six months, reading about other projects, before I posted the first time; the information available here made the decision to build a CarPC easy.

    And thanks to you for reading here. I hope you'll provide feedback and tips to make this a great resource for those who follow us.

    Let's build a CarPC.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  2. #2
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Case:
    I was looking for a PC case about 8"x12"x3" because that would fit very nicely between the seat rails. I did a bunch of web-crawling looking for electrical boxes, project boxes, cash boxes and even lunch boxes and cookie and candy boxes. They were all the wrong size or outrageously expensive.

    I decided to go the build-it-myself route. I went to Home Depot and got a galvanized steel stud drywall track, which would be almost perfect for 3-1/2" sides. I did some test bends. It bends fine across the web, but when I went to bend the flanges, they simply broke when I got to 90 degrees; apparently, the material is work-hardened from manufacturing. Bummer. I aborted that plan.

    Then I found the Hammond Manufacturing (www.hammfg.com) boxes. They produce lots of sizes, and the 12"x8"x3" seemed perfect. It's Hammond part # 1441-24BK3 (box) and 1431-22BK3 (cover). The box is black powder-coated 20-gauge steel, and is $36 plus shipping from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) and other dealers. Canadians can find Hammond boxes at Parts Connexion (www.partsconnexion.com). I'd have used this box if I wasn't so impatient, but I decided to build a duplicate of the Hammond box from some sheet metal I have on hand. I'd never done much with sheet metal, so this seemed like a good way to learn.

    The sides and bottom are a single piece of 22-gauge galvanized steel (HVAC duct material from Home Depot) formed in a $30 lightweight bending brake from Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com). The front and backplate are from the same material. It's riveted together using 1/8" stainless steel pop rivets. If I do this again, I may try solid rivets -- the pop rivets work fine, but they don't look very classy.

    So I had the basic box, not quite as pretty as the Hammond box, but done in a day. It wasn't too hard, but I did a LOT of fit checks between steps.

    To turn the bare box into a computer case, I drilled holes in the bottom for the motherboard and power supply standoffs; the standoffs attach with serrated locking washers and cap nuts. I cut a 1-3/4" x 6-3/4" hole for the interface insert panel, and hand-filed it to finish size. In each side, I drilled a pattern of holes for inlet air. The hole pattern duplicates the power supply cover of an old PC case I have.

    With plenty of fit checks along the way, I also added holes for four additional USB ports, a 12-pin Molex connector for the various electronic connections (switch, LEDs, etc.), plus a power port from an old PC power supply. The power port isn't the standard 115V, but instead the reverse one generally used to power the monitor; it requires a special plug. I used that because I didn't want anyone -- or even me, in a moment of brainfade -- to plug in a straight 115V line and fry the system. The Molex connector is on the opposite end from the power plug, because I like to keep data and power cables away from each other as much as possible.

    Here's the raw case:



    Click images to enlarge.

    The top is made of heavier 20-gauge pre-painted steel that was previously the side of a computer case. It fastens with four standard computer case screws that go into automotive-type 6-32 speednuts in the case. I drilled a pattern of holes -- similar to the ones in the sides, but larger -- centered over the processor cooling fan.

    I paint-prepped both parts with an abrasive pad. On the unpainted steel, I followed with a vinegar (acetic acid) wash, followed by a water wash and air drying. Then I gave both parts several light coats of textured satin black Rust-Oleum paint. I left the inside of the case bare metal; with all the heat it produces, I don't expect corrosion to be an issue.

    Here are the case and top after paint:



    The top, which was probably powder-coated, has shown fine scratch resistance. But I wasn't so lucky with the previously unpainted galvanized steel. The paint initially seemed to adhere just fine, but it had pretty low scratch resistance, and I scraped paint off in several places just using it for fit checks when I built the mount (see below). So I stripped it back to bare metal by wetting it with acetone, waiting 30 seconds, and lifting off the paint with a plastic scraper and an acetone-soaked rag. Yep, I used latex gloves so the acetone wouldn't soak into my skin.

    This time I gave it a phosphate wash, and, after drying thoroughly, a black epoxy base coat. It still didn't stick well enough. Stripped it again and phosphate washed and rinsed it twice more. Once it was dry, I gave it a some light coats of the textured satin black, and they stuck. Whew!

    A local powder-coating company had priced the job at $30. I just figured the phosphate wash would be inexpensive -- a quart of the phosphating chemical cost $7 at Home Depot -- and would be good experience. What about a professional appearance? Well, yes, I want it to look nice, but this box is going to live under the seat, so learning about the phosphating and painting processes was more important.

    Mistake Avoided: I dodged a mistake by luck. I decided to go extra wide on the case by about 1/2". It's a good thing I did, because I needed that space at the back so I can reach in and attach/detach the power supply connector, which sits right at the back of the motherboard. Next time I design my own case, I'll be sure I leave that little extra bit of space, instead of trying to get it all to the absolute minimum dimension. That extra space also makes it easier to neaten up the wires that connect the PSU, the motherboard, and the Molex connector.

    PC Mount:
    The PC sits under the passenger seat near the front of its travel, raised off the floor about 3". This position provides plenty of airflow around the case. The mount is built much like the laptop holder that I'll use until this PC system is up and running. The how-to-build instructions on the laptop holder are here. The mount is soldered 1/2" copper tubing, covered with hot-water line insulation, a gray foam material that lets the PC float on a foam cushion for shock absorption, and provides positioning. I painted the caps on the legs black, because they're the only copper that will show.

    Here are the soldered-up mount, and the mount with insulation cut and ready to install:



    The legs extend up from the base far enough to hold the case in position, but are low enough that they don't interfere with the top. The rear passenger floormat extends all the way up under the seat, and I cut holes in it for the legs. The holes will keep the mount positioned, and it's stable enough that the weight of the system should hold it firmly in place. If I were going to take my car off-road, I'd devise something hold it tighter, but this is a street machine.

    Here's the mount completed, and the nearly-completed case nestled into the mount:



    The power connection on the left side and the 12-pin Molex connector on the right side ride up against the foam on the legs, so they'll maintain the case's position on the mount laterally. The legs keep it positioned fore-and-aft.

    In under-seat installations, especially where the ports face the rear, backseat passengers' feet can do damage without the passengers even knowing it. In this installation, all the connections are in the front face seen in the photo. I'll still have to devise a way to keep rear seat passengers' feet off the back of it, but they're unlikely to damage anything since there are no cables or switches there.

    Phase 1 is almost done, Phase 2 is coming up soon, and Phase 3 is Completed.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  3. #3
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Monitor location:
    Here's a picture of the stock dash on the xB:



    Click images to enlarge.

    I originally wanted to put the monitor into the dash, but not actually build it in. I wanted to keep the monitor intact because some test fitting indicated that removing the case wouldn't gain me much. I eventually caved in to the idea of building it into the dash at some point. Moving the 2-DIN head unit from the top to the bottom of the panel means I'd eliminate the cubbyhole and the lighter/ashtray panel seen in front of the shifter. Here's the dash with those components out, and then a test fit with the head unit moved and the monitor stuck into the opening it left:



    To build into the dash, I'll have to fabricate some brackets and extensively modify the bezel, but I won't have to make structural changes to the dash itself. I'll also have to extend the radio and antenna wires. The major time involvement will be fabricating brackets for everything and making the revised bezel.

    Because I want to leave the HVAC controls where they are, the monitor may rise about 1" above the current top of the panel, but it won't obscure the dash readouts when I'm driving. Here's a driver's-eye view with the parts temporarily placed:



    The dash slopes forward -- away from the driver -- quite a bit, but I want the monitor to be vertical to eliminate as much sun as possible. It will have significant space behind it in the area previously occupied by the 2-DIN radio -- an area roughly 7"x4"x6". I originally thought I could build a metal box the same size as the radio, use the radio mounting brackets to install it, and mount the monitor to the box. I considered using the box to hold the powered USB adapter and mounting the monitor on rails in such a way that sliding the monitor out would provide easy access to the hub. I eventually abandoned that idea.

    I also considered locating the monitor below the HVAC controls. This option would also require mount fabrication and bezel fabrication, still with no structural changes to the dash, and would mean I don't have to move the head unit. But I decided it would also place the monitor so far out of my line of sight that using it there would be too distracting. I want it closer to eye level.

    DVD player/CD writer:
    It looks like the best option available is to mount a DVD player below the climate controls and above the relocated head unit. That will entail more brackets and an opening in the bezel, but will only require a 4-foot cable to the PC.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate redls1bird's Avatar
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    Your off to a great start!! Lots of good custom stuff in here. Kepp up the good work.
    Car Pc progress meter:
    [-5%-------------------] Carpc build #2. So far, 20$ deep! I love recycling!

    "The car is the closest we will ever come to creating something that is truly alive" -Sir William Lyons
    My worklog

  5. #5
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Thanks, redls1bird . . .

    Hard Drive Installation:
    I decided to mount the hard drive up on the inside of the lid, close to the vent holes, figuring that would make sure some air flowed around it to keep it cool. I allowed about a 1/4" gap between the hard drive and the lid. I'm not very worried about shock mounting, because the entire case rides on a foam cushion.

    Using 20-gauge galvanized sheet metal, I cut two strips 4"x5/8", rounded the ends with snips and a file, and drilled 1/8" diameter holes, 5/16" from each end. Then I drilled two 3/16" holes in each piece, 1" from the center. A quick pass through the bending brake making bends 1-3/8" from center, and I had hard drive brackets.

    After drilling matching 3/16" holes in the lid, I bolted the brackets in using standard hard drive screws and 6-32 nuts; there's a fiber washer under the head of each screw and a serrated locking washer under each nut. Here's the top with the brackets mounted, plus views of the top with the hard drive in place, seen from the inside and the outside:



    Click images to enlarge.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  6. #6
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    Great work, it's good to see another xb. I took way to long to finish mine, so no work log, but thanks for the link to the project boxes, it's what i've been looking for.

    What did you use to make the cuts? A Dremel?

  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate Phatsacks's Avatar
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    So much work into the case, but you did not want to go 7" LCD and make it look like an OEM install?

  8. #8
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Fcastle, it's good to hear from another xB owner. Do you have pictures?

    To make the cuts, I used a combination of tools: drill, sheet metal snips, a Ryobi rotary tool (like a Dremel, but bulkier and 18v), and an air-powered nibbler. I could have done it without the rotary tool or the nibbler, but this project was a great excuse to buy toys for the shop. The air nibbler was about $25 from Harbor Freight, and the Ryobi rotary tool was about $40 -- without battery or charger -- from Home Depot; I already have the batteries and charger from other Ryobi tools.

    I used a center punch to mark hole centers so I could drill the holes where I wanted them. To guide the cuts, I put a wide Magic Marker line about where the cuts would go, and then scribed the exact location in that mark. That gave me perfect lines to work up to. If I do any more of this, though, I'll get a can of layout dye.

    All the cuts were hand-filed to final dimensions and finish. Because the USB port openings are too small to use my regular files, I bought a set of little hobby files at Lowe's (www.lowes.com).

    I tested my skills on scrap before doing the real thing. Even so, I ended up building a couple of parts over. I learned a lot about sheet metal doing this job.

    I learned a lot about painting and paint prep, too. And I learned that the satin black texture paint hides little screwups.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  9. #9
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Phatsacks, I'm working on making it look OEM. It appears that by doing some major bezel work, I can encase the monitor in the bezel. I bought a spare bezel on eBay and have already started hacking at it. I'm slurping up the the tutorials from turbocad6 and gorky and lots of information from others.

    I didn't want a smaller monitor. Unfortunately, this 10.4" monitor conflicts with the a/c vents; there's 1/2"+ interference on either side. I'm thinking of cutting the bezel and building it deeper and wider. I'd essentially be moving the outlets an inch further apart, and making the bezel deeper by 2" or more at the top, but the same depth at the bottom. That will allow me to build the ducts around the monitor, and to keep the screen relatively upright rather than laying back and being unreadable in sunlight. It will also mean completely reshaping the bezel. That will be interesting, since I've never done bezel work before.

    I don't think the new bezel will be silver like the original; I'll probably go with a satin black similar to the rest of the dash. Turbocad6 points out that subtle is better than flashy. When that monitor lights up, that'll be flashy enough to suit me.

    When I get the space in the dash made, I'll post more pix. Since this car is my daily driver, and since we still need a/c here in sunny south Florida, I work to keep everything functioning as I modify.

    I think I've resigned myself to building this permanently -- not being able to go back to stock -- but I still want to build a bezel I can easily remove for maintenance.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  10. #10
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    High Desert, Ca
    Posts
    10
    I went the same route you did for the bezel, I bought an extra one off of scionlife. I am having an 8in screen molded in. It will be painted flat or texture black to match the dash also (I too figured the screen should hold your attention). I'll get some pics of it the next time I go by the shop.

    I already have a couple of orders for some more once this is hashed out, but I'm still learning a lot from the folks here. Everytime I think I have a new question it's in the search,lol.

    I'm currently trying to get off of windows and over to linux, but I know little of it so it's slow, but seems worth it.

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