Thread: '97 Seville STS

rebuilding the mounting bracket for the screen... ran into some mounting issues that would be easier if i was dealing with a flat surface to mount instead of a rounded edge and then making it contoured to the center console after the screen has been successfully mounted.

Ill be trimming the top portion of it to accomodate the oem INFO buttons however, i will be painting the info buttons and the hvac controls to match that of the screen bezel so it will look more uniform, i might even try and find some psudo leather to surface it to match the rest of the interior, dunno yet will have to see what i can find available.

the issues with the glovebox carpc case was that with my other mod, i was able to use a 90 degree monitor port due to the lack of space between the side and the far left side of the glove box space:



the right side of the dashboard of the glovebox has far more room for cables etc, so im taking the whole car pc apart, and reconfiguring it so that the ports are all on the right side instead of the left side, good thing is that the polycarbonate i used is easily drilled and reconfigured, bad thing is that now since i have a limited supply of this stuff, the case is now full of holes and screw mounts that are no longer used... its slowly becoming swiss cheeze .. but once i get everything situated and operational, ive found a relatively cheap distro for the poly sheets (266 for a 3/8"x4'x8' and 180 for 1/4"x4'x8') so once i get the actual rig configured, ill remake it but with less hack and chop

Originally Posted by quantum

MindDrive, another tidbit I thought of...

Because of the year (1997), there is a problem with just taking out the radio from what I read on another forum. Things like the warning chimes, memory functions and security are tied into it by design. I prevented those problems by mounting the radio in the trunk and running 30+ spliced wires 17 ft back to it. Basically got a male and female adapter for the radio harness, spliced them together and ran it back to the trunk.

Then I got a PAC AUX-BOX. One end plugs into the CD changer controls (in trunk), the other is RCA jacks. I took the signal from the PC headphone jack, put that into a splitter (1/8" to stereo RCA) and ran those back to the trunk too. This worked out VERY well, sound pumped through the factory system perfectly.

The bonus was I got to keep my steering wheel controls, and they worked just like factory with NO mods to the column. Just thought I'd share...

Well the only thing thus far that i have experienced loosing by removing the stock deck is that the door chime does not work for keys in the ignition or the headlights on, BUT the 97 seville EVEN IF YOU LEAVE the light switch on, will turn off after a few moments leave it to cadillac to dummy proof a car , and even so, I finally got around to programing a new remote and syncronizing it so that the remote works properly for the keyless entry. One problem I did run into was when removing the glovebox with the buttons (valet, traction control) is that the OEM INFO panel the FUEL and TRUNK buttons failed to work and after i programmed the keyless entry, even the remote buttons would not operate the trunk or fuel door. After checking all the fuses etc, it dawned on me that the reason why is that the VALET switch was the reason why. After some prodding i found that the valet switch is N/C (normally closed) to complete the circuit enabling remote functions of the fuel door and trunk (instead of using the key to open the trunk and then using the emergency pull wire on the fuel latch) its been kind of embarassing to be seen opening the trunk of a cadillac to fill up with gas

with that resolved, i found out i NOW need to replace the battery on the remote as i spose the remotes been sitting for several years on the shelf of the dealership parts room ~_~

anyway, after checking the dashboard for fit once the carpc case has been reconfigured, ive run into a snag yet again. the support bracket for the passenger airbag framework is STILL in the way after cutting away 3/4" from the back and relocating the fans.... not good.... SO *admittingly* screw airbags... who wants something blowing up in their face anyway (i wear glasses and ive seen crash test dummies-- i dont want holes in my face) so I used a nice pair of channel lock pliers and ripped that PITA bracket out of the way.... guess what... i think i just found out where im going to mount that 15" monitor from my eldorado project ^_^ HAH but that wont be till much later when i can figure out how to do vinyl work

Looking good! But you ought to be heading to Davenport tomorrow. I went last year and we Caddy owners had a ball! I'd be there now if I didn't have a prior commitment.

Be careful with that heater tube under the center Console its not held together with anything and if it comes apart while you're installing the console, all you have is that small openings at the ashtray to reach in and put it back together again. I stacked all my USB devices down in there as will as mounting my distro block on the inner wall.

great, as most anyone thats ever been in illinois will know, "dont like the weather? wait a day or 2 and it will get worse". Good thing last night/yesterday i was able to complete the fabrication of the glovebox case and install it. so now thats out of the way i can finish the screen and all the wires for the power etc

more pics soon as i get around to taking em

well last night i finally finished fabricating the screen bezel, ran wires for the screen, car pc, audio out, found out my sun roof is leaking, tore the interior apart, installed the bezel... took some pictures of progress i almost forgot to do LOL--- kinda defeats the purpose of logging what ur doing without pictures to show what youve done heh... soon as i get to pulling the pics off my phone ill throw em up. The work i didn on the screen bezel looks awesome- like it was oem fabricated (at least on the front side- behind the scenes looks like something from mad max beyond thunderdome but hey its all bout the show )

im having problems running the wires from the front battery/altinator to the rear battery... cadillac obviously never inteded someone to run a bundle of 4GA wire from the engine to the trunk ~_~ but meh if i have to drill i guess i have to drill.

still havnt decided which if any front end to choose, none of the ones ive tried fully support what/how i use my car pc...
roadrunner- keep getting errors on install about this that and the other about files not found, winamp etc
mobile impact- glitches and gives errors when certain buttons are clicked
frodo- dunno why i didnt like this one
street deck- too expencive for just a "program" that combines all the other programs i already use
desktopX- cant figure out how to code functions into objects, otherwise this would be the choice i would use

anyway, like i said... more pics to come

Originally Posted by MindDrive

im having problems running the wires from the front battery/altinator to the rear battery... cadillac obviously never inteded someone to run a bundle of 4GA wire from the engine to the trunk ~_~ but meh if i have to drill i guess i have to drill.

Love to see them pics

Can't you just run it under the car and come up under the back seat or something like that? I know in the 98 Deville, there was a 2" x 1" hole behind the upper corners of the back seat leading right to the trunk. If it's there, you'll be able to see it if you peel away the trunk carpeting off the back of the back seat.

In the 02 Deville, the battery is under the back seat, makes life easier and um...interesting.

Did I mention pics

ok as promised (buuuuhhhh buuuummmm bummmmmmmmmm)

PICTURES ^_^

ok this picture is a preliminary build before i figured out that i couldnt use the design due to mounting issues with the OEM mounts... also you can see that trying to go from a curved front bezel to a flat mount for the screen looks "sloppy" and made it pretty difficult




This is how i mounted the controller for the touch screen (note* i hate ribon cables*) This piece of poly allows the circuit board to be mounted and also functions as a means of applying pressure to the screen to keep in place against the front bezel. The checkered pieces are actually foam double sided tape that im using as a "cusion" to keep the board away from the poly which also allows for ventilation.


This is how it looks assembled in the new front bezel design. As you can see i trimmed off the top layer of metal to allow for the OEM INFO button display.


Here is a front shot of the display with the screen mounted. You can see some sanding of the metal to allow for the bondo to stick. *(yes i used bondo- it smells funny and makes you see purdy colors eventually---*drool*)


I had to relocate the power connector because the way that the framework slides into the OEM mounds would not allow the plug to slide past the brackets. I encapsulated the solder points with silicone as to act against shorts and to stabilize the wires and solder points.


This is where i first applied the bondo to the new design. This new design is flat where i used the bondo to make the curved surface. I regretfully got ahead of myself in the picture taking and wished i hadnt. Anyone that has used bondo knows that in most "thick" applications, its bond to metal is somewhat shakey. In thick applications, you can "smack" the back side of whatever with something and the bondo will fly off. To combat this, i soldered curved pieces of metal to act as a type of reinforcement and also to give me a "youve sanded too far" backbone. Thus far the idea works great and the bondo seems to be bonding just fine.


This is after i painstakingly shaped the curves and angles to make it look somewhat "manufactured" instead of fabricated (yay pink HAH) You can see the angles i sanded to give the bezel that "screen" look like something thats bought. The curved angles in the corners were freeking difficult to get even and straight lines and corners are also equally difficult.


First coat of paint:


I got so frustrated with how this would look painted i had to paint it. Since i added the paint, its too late to sand it off so the "final" look is going to have to be done through sanding many layers of paint instead of sanding back down to the bondo and risk altering the angles etc.


This is the newly configured case. Due to the comments earlier about confined space and whatnot, i basicly reversed the build so that the connections are on the right side. This allows more connections and less cable cramping. However, this poor polycarbonate is riddled with holes and marks/scratches etc. When i can afford real tooling and another piece of 1/4" poly, ill be rebuilding this case once again but with proper specs intead of eyeballing everything and then making cuts etc....












This is now what my poor trunk looks like. After discovering the leak in my sunroof, ive found that not only was the back seat tub full of water, the trunk liner was also full of water so i ripped out everything to air out and to also see the structure of the trunk as to where to mount everything. As any owner of a cadillac will know, theyve always had AMPLE amount of trunk space which is very very very nice










Ok one step closer to getting this project up and running. In this picture i did a preliminary fit test to see how what i was doing on the bench actually measured up with how the rest of the center console was designed. NICE AND SMOOTH mounting lines. Its really starting to look OEM at this point




As you can see in these 2 pics, the lines are awesome. The bondo work i did fills the gaps almost better than the stock radio did and the transition from the top INFO panel and the HVAC display is 99% flawless. the only flaw is that due to the height of the screen, the INFO display pushed upward making the angle change ever so slightly so when u run your hand down the face of the center console you can feel the change in the curve angle. WHOOPTIE DAH DOO. it looks nice and i doubt anyones going to be feeling up my car anytime soon LOL




Few pics of test install, nothing at this point is operational as im still trying to run wires. The monitor wires and the M2-ATX wires are run so as soon as i add a battery to the trunk, i could power on the pc yet since i have no audio (amps, speakers, wires etc) there really is no reason to go through the trouble just to show a working pic ~_~




At this point my nice long weekend is over so now im only going to be able to put a few hours a day in on this and since im at one of the more critical points.... this is going to be the slow stage. Audio selection for speakers, amps etc is by far the most $ demanding. My eldorado project was basicly built using leftovers, this seville project is going to be all new equipment and design.

Nice!

What did you use to make the bezel, just Bondo or is there anything under it to give it the shape?

*edit - I saw that you braced it with curved metal pieces...

Looking good. I don't envy you on the audio install. I hate wiring Caddys - there's always a ground loop somewhere. Don't forget to do a "Big Three" upgrade while you're at it.