That's coming along nice!!!
One word of advice would be to watch the airflow/PC cooling with the car heat on during the winter. Mine is in the glove box as well, and the cpu / case temp goes up 15-20 degrees above normal when the heat is set to the floor vents.
It appears (on mine) the ductwork for the vents runs right behind the glove box and they get warm to the touch. Also, the hot air from the floor vents rises up through the open pockets under and behind the dash, and wind up in the glove compartment.
In the summer, the opposite is true. With the AC on, the PC stays nice and cool!
I solved this problem by lowering the air temp (sometimes), or simply opening the glove box door. Powerful fans pulling air out of your case should be fine, some duct work leading it away from the glove box cavity might help too.
Anyway, just thought I'd share.
thanks for the compliment quantum :)
on both my caddy's i put a puter in, the air duct was right behind the glove box... though on my 92 eldorado, i cut a hole in the vent to help circulate air which helped in the winter cause the ball bearing fans would lock up ~_~... and even with the heat cranked up the temps never got above nominal (104~135) one of the advantages of using a low wattage processor ^_^
this mod however, im only going to be running 2 80mm fans, ones a standard LED case fan and the other is the OEM processor fan from hp (which is connected to the mobo processor fan but is used to draw air out the back) the case fan is actually what will be cooling the processor as its not regulated by temperature but blows at full speed all the time... to further aid in cooling, i drilled 5 5/8" holes directly under the processor so the back side of the motherboard gets cooling as well
big problem tonight tho-- i have everything "assembled" and when i went to power up using an AC~DC converter (13.5VDC 2.5A, 4A peak) to power the M2 ATX, the pc would turn on for a few seconds and then shut down
OH CRAP i thought, then i remembered that the M2ATX will power down if voltage goes below 11 something volts... now this AC~DC power supply is OOOOOLLLLLDDDDD... so i dug out the OEM power supply which has a max wattage of 120W and nominal of 97W which it turned on (powering everything except the thermaltake display)... everything so far is 'working' and i even went so far as to install xp without a hitch
now for the FUN part.... installation of all the umpteen thousand drivers ROFL!!! (which i am in the process, as i type this, in collecting and putting on the hard drive cartridge as afformentioned ^^^^)
even if i dont get it installed into the car, at least it will be "functional" and i can run it off jumper cables if really necessary MUA HAHAHHAHAHHA
*crys* man i just want this damn thing to be done already....
i drug out the deep cycle battery i had on the shelf and connected jumper leads to the pc... booted right up... so im shelving that AC~DC power converter for testing light bulbs
ive run pretty much all the wires in the case and with some minor adjustments everything fits great... mounted the case to the glove box chasis-- looks awesome.. have yet to get the car side wireing in order but thats nothing more than an afternoon of nice weather to work in... or the use of a garage
ran into a bit of a problem... i reconfigured the IR sensors on the monitor and the thermaltake displays to route them into the INFO display panel... the monitor IR works, the thermaltake does not... though after some rewiring of the thermaltake display (to add a viable working set of disconnectable plugs) it is operational once again
the pc boots and runs great... though i had yet ANOTHER problem... the slim line dvd burner i got from newegg burned up... right after i got all the drivers etc installed for the pc... so i RMA'd it and it ''should'' be here sometime next week (*sigh*)
on the plus note... the fabrication looks great...
ill post pics as soon as i have time :)
so right before i called this thing "done" it was sitting on my bench and looked somewhat unprofessional. The edges of the polycarbonate are 'white' from machining. They need to be 'clear', so I tore everything apart and used polyurathane to coat the edges. POOF as soon as the liquid touched the edge, it turned instantly clear. Now theres several different ways of making the edges of any clear plastic clear again after you cut it:
sanding, sanding, more sanding and then lots of buffing. The problem with this is supplies, skill and having enough time/material incase I mess up as polycarbonate melts if it gets too warm. Plus if in the sanding stage, one little piece of sand paper rubs the wrong surface, the whole piece is shot.
Flame pollishing (as seen on TV- pimp my ride) which not only is dangerously hot, but also causes the polycarbonate to bubble if it gets slightly too hot as well. It also stinks to high hell when polycarbonate starts to burn, so theres the inhillation problem of burning chemicals.
Now theres several types of liquids that will work to clear up the polycarbonate.... CLEAR COAT for 1, problem with clearcoat is that its a "paint" which can and will flake off under assembly pressure. There is also this stuff that is called "Weld-on" which can be used both as an adhesive and for clearing up the edges- if you have ever seen acrylic displays, look at the edges of the assembly- thats more than likely weld-on. Problem with weld-on is that it greatly weakens the strength of polycarbonate.
"Crystal clear" sylicone works as well, but it is very very messy. One little blob of the stuff "gets away" and it finds its way everywhere!!! Also in my experience, in an automobile application, it attracts dust and discolors enough to make any installation look 'nasty' and grungy.
So as the parts are completely disassembled, polyurethane is curing, I have time to start working on other parts of this install...
Wire harnesses in the dashboard (#1 priority)
running wires for the rear battery again (2nd priority)
cleaning up existing wires in the trunk
fiberglassing the rear window speakers
fiberglassing for the trunk
well the carputer is operational once again, and i do have an old crusty amp connected to it just to have some music to listen to from here to there, nothing amazing other than this thing still works LOL
chicago people will be able to see it sunday the 19th for sure
mission accomplished.... the computer was functional for the meet... sorry everyone for showing you the mess in the trunk ~_~ that will be taken care of as soon as i learn how to fiberglass ^_^
i already want to rebuild it ~_~ I HATE THIS BUG IVE GOTTEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
forgot to update this... i sold it over the end of summer
THIS SYSTEM IS FOR SALE, THE CAR IS FOR SALE AS WELL
1000.00 FOR THE SYSTEM *OBO*
4500.00 FOR THE CAR *OBO* or (1000 and take over payments- at time of posting 3500 left on loan)
I have uninstalled the computer, and put the entire car back to OEM. I have spent the past 3 days detailing the ever living snot out of this cadillac, and if it werent 12/13 years old with 108K miles, it would be worth a LOT more. I am willing to sell the two as a package, but will not reinstall the carpc.
The pc is a direct bolt in component for seville/eldorado cadillacs from '92 upto '98 and may even fit upto the 2002 models. I cannot confirm the 02 fitment as I have not sat in one, but there were very subtle changes.
The monitor is a 619 Lilliput 4wire touch. The rack the monitor sits in is also a direct bolt in with the OEM radio brackets which I know fit the 97 series dashboards. I had a 92 Eldorado which this monitor should have fit, but the mounting was slightly different. In the 92 series dashboards, the radio (corporate 2 din) secured from the bottom of the deck, where as the 97 corporate 2 din secured from the left and right sides. The monitor is not 100% completed as I have not mounted the Lilliput's control circuit board (the one with the menu buttons etc.)
I have also made up wire harnesses that will allow a quick installation for someone that has a battery in their trunk. I used a 12 pin molex plug that is pinned to protect against shorting when the computer is unplugged/removed from the dashboard. The male pins are on the computer side, where as the female pins are vehicle side. Wires are long enough that the pc is operational if removed from the compartment and sitting on the seat/floor.
I have not posted in the classified section yet as I do not have any final fabrication pictures that show off the quality of this build, but as you can see through my worklog that I have been very thurough in my processes.
Any inquiries can be made here or through pm or email.
Reason for selling: 4 car payments, trying to buy a house, I have too much stuff.