'97 Seville STS
Going for the "stealthy" approach on this project. Going to try and stay away from "motorized" pop-up displays. Car is red with black leather interior so turned off screens will blend in very nicely.
The pc case is completely custom made out of *Makrolon* poly that fits exactly where the dashboard glovebox fits with the glovebox door intact. Due to the size of it and the 'messy' feel, I will be getting rid of the 15" monitor that was mounted to the case of the 2din sterio case. (Eldorado project that got destroyed)
I will also be using a battery isolator from the past project that I had mounted in the engine compartment, behind the front right headlight. Hopefully it will fit in the Seville like it did in the Eldorado. I have an M2 DC-DC power supply which will be mounted in the pc case which also replaces the 1400W inverter I was using.
The 2nd battery is a dual duty deep cycle battery w/ 700+/-CCA which I will have a solenoid connected to the ignition for dual battery engine starting in the winter. Will need to vent the vapor tubes through the trunk somewhere as to not allow "seepage" to corrode surrounding metals.
(MISSING LINKS... THANKS GEOCITIES)
As you can see, with the glovebox door closed, its virtually unnoticable. I made the fit as close to OEM fitting as the original glovebox. The poly is excellent to work with and with some sanding and buffing, the edges take on a real great look. Cutting out the holes for the connections was pretty difficult with hand tools and more than a few times I feared cutting off a finger with the dremel cutting disk. Wish I had a mill for that one. The bottom of the case I figured would be best with some extra ventalation so I used a paddle drill bit (proper name?-the flat ones for wood) which cut excellent and even made a nice lil poly washer when finally through. Since the glovebox has functional "usefull" buttons, i incorporated them into the design as well EXCEPT the glovebox light.... dont need it, pc has its own lights :).
Since I have the M2 DC~DC power supply, the original 120W AC~DC power supply will be removed and in its place more fans. The new power supply will be eventually mounted on the pc "lid" next to the CPU fan (not in pictures 'cause of the flash glare)
Since the '97 Seville has "on steering wheel" controls, I will be re-wiring them to accomodate PC controls using an old multimedia keyboard which makes ease of volume and forward/back selection:
I'll be using CAT5e insulated network cable to run the wires from the steering wheel to the modified keyboard circuitboard. Hopefully the extra insulation will protect the coper wires from fatigue through the steering column. The Play, Pause, Music(media player) buttons I am hoping to incorporate into the PRNDL shifter knob button for easy "drive thru" functions. The shifter tube should still contain enough room for the wires.
The trunk audio hopefully I can finish using the same material as the pc case was made out of but the size im looking for is 3/8" and is roughly 400-500 bucks a 4x8 sheet so the trunk might need to wait a few months before the dough can be swindled away from necessities. Super bright LED's look awesome while shinning through poly!!
Will try and keep this updated as much as possible with as many progress pictures to show as much detailed work as possible. Im still pretty new to customizing auto's and making it look "presentable" and not just functional, but Ive learned a lot from the '91 GMC, to the '92 Eldorado, and now '97 Seville
Ive already found a flaw in my workings... instead of using cat5e cable through the steering column, im just going to get a long usb cable and mount the keyboard circuitboard in the wheel itself as im not sure on the resistive properties of the keyboard circuit material thats original. Dont want to underpower the buttons seeing how the KB circuit is relatively short and made out of dried liquid conductive material :S
ok fun fun fun... in trying to make this pc a DC~DC application ive found that the AC~DC power supply is a 24 pin 'micro' atx plug --- 1-20 pins are default standard but the 21-24 pins are another ground, 2-5V+, and a 12v+.
a buddy of mine had a spare power supply from another one of these mini hp computers so im able to retain the original power supply intact, while i experimented with the one he had. Well in disassembly of the other power supply revealed that they had bundled the common voltages (12v, 5v, 3.3v etc etc) into a single source.
This greatly simplifies trying to modify an ATX plug for the DC~DC power supply to fit with this hp/asus hybrid board
(the reason i say hybrid is because HP wont sell it "alone", and ASUS will not acknowlege the existance of it even though it has ASUS all over it) *shakes fists- YOU BASTARDS*
more to come (^_^)
well on the 27th i got a crack in the weather that gave me enough time to strip my 92 eldorado of my previous project, pulled the dual duty deep cycle battery, speakers, wires, battery isolator etc etc... poor eldorado looks like its ready to be put out. too bad tho... lots of new parts and the thing runs great (SHAKES FIST AT ILLINOIS' ROADS)
back on topic;
I removed the glovebox from the seville to find that its 99% identical to the 92 eldorado other than there is an additional support brace about center that takes away about an inch of mounting depth for my existing pc case. This is not a problem as since i have the DC power supply i can shave off the 2" needed to mount the stock AC power supply and mount the DC power supply to the case lid.
Great start, please keep us informed on your progress. Let's hope you ave enough "good days" to get it done by the 19th and bring it down to the Casino Queen so we all can see it. I personally prefer functional (see "My Photos"). Most say my Eldorado is like a police cruiser.
Received my lilliput 619gl on 4-2-08, bad news here ~_~. bought it from ebay 230 bucks.... SAID it was brand new... looks brand new... EXCEPT... there was a rattle in the monitor, the stand is missing and after plugging it in, the "MENU" button does not work for the OSD functions. first reaction was THAT @%$@%^&!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ebay store!!! but then i got to thinking, im just going to tear this poor thing apart anyway voiding any warrenty anyway so meh... i took the back panel off... rattle was the speaker (glued in) BUT i found (i think) why the menu button does not work properly, theres some refurb soldering done to the monitor's control circuit board.. i dont have a camera that takes pics that close up, but the remote will still bring up the OSD just fine... not conserned.
I connected the monitor to the car pc and installed the drivers.. set all the configurations i could find and it works great... with time constraints etc and whatnot, im just gonna keep it instead of pitching a @#%* on ebay etc.
im in the process now of setting the OS so that i can operate it with this small touch screen (going from a 15" screen to 7" wide screen hurts) as i havnt yet figured out which front end to select (ANY RECOMENDATIONS WELCOMED)
more to come
OK since im planning on completely modifying this install w/o option of ever returning it back to "stock" what i do will be permanent, and if i ever sell the car the pc will prolly go with it....
ON THAT NOTE... i am being very critical about just "ripping into it" and am looking for tips on how to disassemble the dashboard... with my 92 eldorado, it was easy, lift off the gearshift PRND321 cover w/ ashtray, remove 2 10mm nuts and the deck slid out... im at a loss about this console wether its hidden screws, or snap together like the 92, mind you i DONT want to do any damage to equipment that will be left intact once the install is complete.
I plan on achieving this "overall" look with the monitor:
BUT.... after seeing some other projects on here, I am thinking about making the carputer something more along the lines of a 2din install rather than the glovebox case as listed previously in this thread...
ANYWAY... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!!!
Heyyyyyyyyyyyy, that's a NICE overall look you're shooting for! ;)
Originally Posted by MindDrive
To take the car apart is pretty simple MindDrive.
Put the gearshift in N (use wheel chocks), pry out the little staple thing on the front of the shift handle, shift handle pulls off
Wood trim with PRNDL just pops off too, may need to pry it on the sides with a screwdriver to lift it.
Once that is off, there are 2 bolts holding the ash tray in. Take those out. Disconnect cig lighter wires
Behind that are 2 more bolts for the radio /CC chassis, take those out.
Info button panel on top, stick a scredriver in each side and pry it out gently. Work it a little at a time, it will come out.
Remove the 2 other radio / CC chassis bolts that are on top there, and out somes the radio and CC in one piece. Disconnect wires, etc.
Let me know how you make out, I took it apart a million times.
Also, FYI that cavern where the radio was looks like a nice spot for a 'puter, but I found it gets hot in there when the heat or defroster is on, the air ducts are right there.
I returned mine to stock in less than 2 hours, no need to make it permanent, unless you want too of course!
BTW, I still got all that woodwork (Info panel, LCD bezel and CC), mounted to the radio chassis, ready to bolt in... :)
All it needs is a 7" LCD :)
MindDrive, another tidbit I thought of...
Because of the year (1997), there is a problem with just taking out the radio from what I read on another forum. Things like the warning chimes, memory functions and security are tied into it by design. I prevented those problems by mounting the radio in the trunk and running 30+ spliced wires 17 ft back to it. Basically got a male and female adapter for the radio harness, spliced them together and ran it back to the trunk.
Then I got a PAC AUX-BOX. One end plugs into the CD changer controls (in trunk), the other is RCA jacks. I took the signal from the PC headphone jack, put that into a splitter (1/8" to stereo RCA) and ran those back to the trunk too. This worked out VERY well, sound pumped through the factory system perfectly.
The bonus was I got to keep my steering wheel controls, and they worked just like factory with NO mods to the column. Just thought I'd share...
oh yes, im quite aware of the systems integration with the head unit and the various other systems that cadillac has decided a "good idea" to make our lives miserable trying to upgrade our stuff....
BUT what they didnt expect (as well as my 92 eldorado) i got these to add to my arsinal:
which allow me to track down the circuits that are integrated to the head unit and bypass the head unit integration.... when i did the carputer install on my 92 eldorado as soon as i pulled out the radio i knew there was something "amiss" as the wires were way too small for the 12v power etc, and a lil tracing and research lead me to the primary receiver being in the trunk. after some testing of the relay system, i isolated what was "necessary" for normal car functions without having the stock receiver present. this is the whole foundation to GM's "ANTI THEFT DEVICE" by splitting up the devices into multiple parts and scattering those parts throughout the vehicle, someone cant just "steal your radio" they only would be getting the digital control system that remotes the receiver in the trunk.... P.I.T.A.
One thing I do have a problem with on the 97 install that is very much different than the 92 install is the location of the fuse panel. On the 92 eldorado, it is just inside the trunk on the left which makes it easy access, on the 97 seville, its all the way INSIDE the trunk mounted up against the back of the seat. SOOOooo if the person changing the fuses were say 250#'s and 6' tall, this would be a major problem, im 185 and 5'7" and i find it STILL a major problem as this limits where i can mount the equipment. The old sterio system will be completely removed, the fiber carpet covered trunk liner will be removed, and i might re-route the fuse panel in order to utilize the back of the seat properly.
The service manuals that i have for the 92 and 97 are pretty complete, shows the ENTIRE circuit layout, which takes away from the guesswork. Basicly, find what you want to remove, what you want to remain, and trace the circuits. The hardest part of it all, is trying to apply the schematic of the manuals to "where its at on the car" though, the locations in the schematics are relatively simple to figure out where they have mounted equipment, sometimes its pure luck finding stuff.