Thread: 2003 Honda Accord Sports Coupe - a worklog

2003 Honda Accord Wire Layout

FUNCTION...................WIRE COLOR..............POLARITY..............LOCATION
12volts...................... white.......................+..............ignitio n harness
Starter...................... black/white...............+..............ignition harness
Ignition.....................black/yellow................+..............ignition harness
Accessory................. black/red...................+..............ignition harness
Second Accessory.......white/red...................+..............ignition harness
Keysense...................red/white or red/black...-..............ignition harness

Power Lock .............. pink/black .................. - ........... grn plug, L side of fusebox
Power Unlock ........... pink/blue .................... - ........... grn plug, L side of fusebox
**These wires will meter while using the passenger door lock switch.

Lock Motor .... yellow/black .... 5wi .... grn plug, front of fusebox
Unlock Motor .... yellow/green .... 5wi .... grn plug, front of fusebox
Disarm Defeat .... yellow .... 5wi .... large wht plug above fusebox

Parking Lights+ .... red/black .... + .... large wht plug above fusebox
Parking Lights- .... black/red or blue/red .... - .... in steering column cover

Hazards .... green/red .... + .... large wht plug above fusebox
Turn Signal(L) .... red/blue .... + .... large wht plug above fusebox
Turn Signal(R) .... brown .... + .... large wht plug above fusebox

Door Trigger .... green/red .... - .... grn 5 pin plug behind fusebox
Trunk/Hatch Pin .... blue/black .... - .... driver kick, harness to rear
Hood Pin .... yellow/red .... - .... hood pin switch in latch
Trunk/Hatch Release .... yellow/green .... + ..... driver kick, harness to rear

Factory Alarm Arm .... white/red .... - .... driver door module in door
Factory Alarm Disarm .... white .... - .... driver door module in door
Disarm No Unlock factory alarm disarm

Tachometer .... blue/red or blue .... AC .... ECM/PCM
**The ECM/PCM is on the front of the transmission tunnel.
**The connectors are on the passenger side.
**On the 4 cylinder models the tach wire is in the white 31 pin connector E, pin 25.
**On the 6 cylinder models it is in the gray connector A, pin 23.

Horn Trigger .... green/yellow .... - .... steering column
Speed Sense .... blue/white .... ECM/PCM
**The ECM/PCM is on the front of the transmission tunnel.
**The connectors are on the passenger side.
**On the 4 cylinder models the VSS wire is in the white 31 pin connector E, pin 26.
**On the 6 cylinder models it is in the gray connector A, pin 11

Wipers .... blue (L), yellow (H) .... - .... windshield wiper motor

LF Window up/dn .... red/black - red/yellow .... LF window switch in door
RF Window up/dn .... red/blue - red .... RF window switch in door
LR Window up/dn .... red/white - blue/black .... LR window switch in door
RR Window up/dn .... red/white - blue/black .... RR window switch in door

Sun Roof open/close .... green/yellow - green/black .... moonroof motor, rear of roof
**Only on the sedans.
**Coupes: the moonroof motor is integrated into the moonroof control unit not allowing
**access to the motor wires.

Radio 12v .... white/green .... + .... radio harness
Radio Ground .... black .... - .... radio harness
Radio Ignition .... yellow/red + .... radio harness
Radio Illumination .... red/black .... + .... radio harness
Power Antenna .... yellow/green .... + .... radio harness
LF Speaker +/- .... green/black - lt. green .... radio harness
RF Speaker +/- .... grn/yel - gray or gray/red .... radio harness
LR Speaker +/- .... blue/white - blue/black .... radio harness
RR Speaker +/- .... pink - blue/yellow .... radio harness


Seat Removal:

I originally thought that I might be
able to get to it by removing the front bolts, loosening the rear bolts,
and leaning the seat back

Over the 1 1/2 working on my system, I have gone through multiple pieces of hardware -- I am at the conclusion that most is not of high enough maturity or reliability to be mainstream... I hope this improves.

What has been reliable -- my memory module is the same one I started out with. My present motherboard and cpu have been going strong for the last 9 months (it took 3 iterations of mb/cpu combos to get to this point). Touchscreen has *worked* (once I figured out the correct settings) for a good year.

[12/04/06] Problem with no sound when audio clearly playing.
Resolution: Turn up the volume within Winamp....

[July 2, 08] Latest issue: Computer crashes at somewhat random timing. Testing today make me think it's related to the volume . I had the crash late yesterday afternoon (crash in this case = stuttering music, followed shortly by a blank screen (video still being produced as monitor light is solid) which I initally attributed to heat or power. I had it crash again, this morning --effectively limiting the idea of heat (it was a much cooler morning, and I had AC cooling the trunk). For whatever reason, I decided keeping the volume low could make a difference. Attempting that allowed the computer to run for the next 2 trips (about 25 && 45 minutes) without a crash. The next trip, I kept the volume low for about 35 minutes before raising the volume (much higher, but unsure what level I had raised it too) which led to a crash about 5 - 10 minutes later. Some further observations using SpeedFan, I noted that increasing the volume does increase the temps -- and no to slowly. Tested this at about 5am with outside temps around 70F, cpu temp starting at 121F. Raising the volume from 5 to 50 for about 10 minutes led to cpu around 126F. CPU is rated for temps from 0 to 100C, however, the MB is rated only upto 60C


[July 8, 08] Recurring Issue: Every so often (like this morning) my Opus 120W power supply will fail to power up as it's suppose too. It requires removing the power connector (maybe doing it a couple of times) and reconnecting it after a few moments to get it to start up again. This problem has been existing for a while now. I haven't noticed a pattern for when it works correctly vs when it fails to start. The problem has existed over multiple DC-DC adapters -- so I don't think it's that. But, if I assume that -- I'm not sure where I should be looking. I should note that I do have a valet switch that kills the 12V power to my computer.... However, it doesn't usually work. Well, the 12V is cut off -- but switching it back on doesn't mean the computer will restart. I have noticed this consistantly when I have had a computer freeze, that using the valet switch causes issues with trying to restart the computer. That said -- when my system does power up, power seems to work just fine

Other Issues I'm working:
- improve boot/shutdown speeds
- Fix my center console (doesn't open right)
- Make display more OEM[See post 28]
- Place the CK3100 in a better location
- Find ways to make usb mouse/keyboard wires retractable (or maybe a small bluetooth keyboard/mouse)
- fix broken aux cable
- add in a cable to recharge phone
- Configure my own rr skin to work with SN
-- need to use freq+/-, scan, tune, & surf radio commands
- my router doesn't reach my car...
- improving load times within RR (between different screens)
- determine wether power from usb powered hubs reaching back to my computer is a problem or not...

I had/have envisioned getting my steering wheel && stereo controls to work with my headless system. My first thought was to use SWIX for steering wheel control without much thought of the other controls. Then I learned of Car2PC, which I had hoped would give me *full* control. Well....

First off, just in case someone else out there is as dense as I am, I wanted to post what car2pc will do for you, using my 2003 accord as an example.

• Button
  Works
• AM/FM
  NO
• CDC
  YES
• Seek
  YES
• Repeat
  YES
• Random
  YES
• Tune
  YES
• Button 1
  NO?
• Button 2
  NO?
• Button 3
  NO?
• Button 4
  NO?
• Button 5
  YES
• Button 6
  YES
• Scan
  YES
• Volume Knob
  NO
• Steering Wheel Mode
  NO
• Steering Wheel Prev/Next
  YES
• Steering Wheel Volume
  YES

To help decipher if a button will work for you -- check to see if the button has actions the will apply to the CD Changer. Although car2pc says it will give you access to your steering wheel controls -- that is only true if the controls will change something with a CD Changer. That's why Volume control on the steering wheel won't work. The Mode button (switches between AM/FM/CD/CD Changer/etc) will only tell you when you enter/exit CD Changer mode.

Given the problems with using Car2PC for the steering wheel, I have implemented using the SWIX for that purpose (and it works, mostly). The SWIX works by sending IR commands to my USB-UIRT, which I then pass to Girder. The only problem I have with it, is the *responsiveness* isn't quite there. Especially the MODE button.

Once I got the SWIX working, I went back to get the Car2PC to do what it can. Well, that leads to my present problem. It turns out that both the usb-uirt and the car2pc use the same chip.... I have installed drivers for each individual device, but now only 1 will work at a given time. Specifically this is true if I use the Car2PC windows drivers. The non windows drivers do work with the UIRT, but not with the RR Car2PC drivers.

I can change volume on my steering wheel, from any mode.
And no problem with button functionality at all.
06 accord with car2pc

Skuller,

Are you using the headunit that comes with the Accord? ie: you're using the car2pc to send audio that is played out your stock system... If so, that would explain the difference as I am not using the stock headunit.

Originally Posted by nasa

Skuller,

Are you using the headunit that comes with the Accord? ie: you're using the car2pc to send audio that is played out your stock system... If so, that would explain the difference as I am not using the stock headunit.

my mistake, I didn't pay attention to your system.
yes I am using the stock h/u

To help keep things straight, I am adding a couple of diagrams (my computer && the equipment added in my car). Some points I need to clarify, as I had them installed by a *professional*. But should be a good starting point....





Updated diagram...

I have an 03 accord coupe and would like to use my steering wheel controls in my carputer on streetdeck and wmp11.I bought the fusion brain a few months back for that reason, but in streetdeck I'm unable to program it to work( a lot of self programming use have to do just to use fusion brain). I was looking to get a universal steering wheel control interface by peripheral for $40.00. I think it IR which my sound card has an IR remote to it also, but since the sound card is in the trunk, I dont have the line of sight. Is the peswix eye long enough to reach the back where the sound card is? Will this setup work? I don't use my head unit. I use aftermarket amps which connects to sb external sound card. Carputer -- to soundcard-- to aftermarket amp-- to speakers.

No,

I don't remember the SWIX cable being that long... But I could be wrong -- I didn't have an IR sensor on my computer at the time, so using the USB one was my only option. With my setup, I use Girder to decipher the IR commands coming from the steering wheel. I don't know anything about doing that with a soundcard (not saying you can't, I just don't know a thing about it).

BTW: I use RR, and a basic Girder file is already created for it. I just had to add in the IR messages against the commands I wanted sent. I don't know if this is available for SD, but I would have to hope so....