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Thread: 2004 VY Holden Commodore Full Install (AU)

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fox_Mulder View Post
    When the computer enters standby, the 12v line is powered down so your screen will turn off. I believe on the M2 you can get it to get windows to enter standby within 5 secs of you taking out the key (as you said by simulating a button press), so you should be fine there.

    But if your computer fails to enter standby after the "button press" the screen will be on, regardless of whether the key is in the ignition or not. Untill your M2 cuts it off - Which could be anywhere from 1 min to Never depending on the setting of your M2.
    That's how I have mine setup. 5 secs then hibernation begins. As soon as it hibernates power is cut to the screen.

    Make a cable using an a molex plug and the cigarette lighter cable for the screen. Connect it to the yellow (12V+) wire on the molex, and plug it into your powersupply. Here's a (terrible) photo of mine.


  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips guys.

    My PC is here, and I have been doing some work on it, going well so far. I've also purchased some 6 inch jaycar splits, not the 6.5's i said originally. I think these should fit better into my doors. The Xenarc is on the way. Some pics below.






  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Bit more of an update, Stuff I have bought:

    Kenwood KFC-M1628A speakers for the rear
    Bulk pack of Dynamat (36 sq. ft.)
    Some $10 USB hub off eBay

    And probably more stuff I have forgot to mention. Zero hour is this Friday! I have taken a week off work (over the Queens birthday weekend, making it about 8 days workshop time) and will be doing a late night death run from Canberra to Ballarat after work on Thursday.

    I anticipate mounting the screen will present some problems, but will see how we go.

    I had a problem with the touchscreen waking the PC up from hibernate on the workbench, that seems to be all fixed now thanks to this thread

    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...de-devcon.html

    Some very useful info in there. Anyway, bed time ... my next post could be the steps to completion! *crosses fingers*

  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Ok so after about 2 days of work I have pulled all the interior bits and pieces out (seats, center console, radio, radio surround) and starting running the power into the cab.

    I've put the 4 gauge from the battery, through the breaker, into the distro and then out to the amp and the PC. The amp and PC are wired in (For power), but i just need one more ring terminal to be able to test it all works.

    Tomorrow I am going to run power to the double DIN space for the monitor, and hopefully I can mount it too.

    Car after seats removed, and a good vacuum.


    PC in its location, power to it.


    4 Gauge running through breaker and grommet into the cab


    Location of grommet the 4 gauge is going through, I think it is where the clutch would go. This was a fair biatch to get the cable through. What I ended up doing was pulling the grommet out, drilling a hole for the cable in it and putting it back in. Then spray some WD-40 on it, and feed the cable through. Be careful only to feed through as much as you need, otherwise when you push it back it will pop the grommet out.


    Location for distro, under steering column


    Tweeter location in bottom corner of windscreen


    Standard tweeter bracket, the Jaycars should go in there ok. The standard tweeters had this bracket that screwed into the base of the magnet, luckily the jaycars will go straight onto the existing bracket, with the addition of a nut to hold them in.



    Lots more to say, but I'm a bit to buggered to say it! Any questions, just ask.

  5. #15
    BGH
    BGH is offline
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    I'm just finishing up an install in my VY ute at the moment. A few similarities to yours. Will be posting pics soonish.

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    More updates. So it is all in and more or less working! Time was starting to get pretty tight towards the end, so I'll just give a basic time line of events.

    - Take out Seats and interior
    - Run power lines
    - Mount distro and breaker
    - Wire PC and Amp to power
    - Wire screen to PC (inc power off the M2)
    - Mount screen
    - Remove stock speakers
    - Wire PC to amp, and amp to new speakers
    - Test for any odd noises etc
    - Take out speakers, prep doors for sound deadening
    - Sound deaden
    - Replace speakers, do a level check on the amp
    - Replace seats, console etc
    - replace door trims
    - PROFIT!!!

    More Pics :

    Screen in, amp and PC mounted.



    Power cable that came with the Xenarc.
    I cut this at the cig plug end, and stripped back the insulation. The inner wire is positive, and the outer negative. I soldered this to the yellow and black wires on a male moex plug inside the PC.



    Screen mounted in dash
    To do this, i removed the back of the monitor casing, and drilled 4 holes in the plastic dash. Two where for the top, where I used the screws that previously held the back of the monitor on to secure it. Two where for the bottom that went through two pieces of wood that sat the monitor out just enough to clear the electronics at the back.







    The two bottom bolts go through the wood and the monitor fascia. I used a file to shape the blocks to fit the plastic. It's certainly not completely secure from thieves, but what is? It's covered on insurance :P

    The location of the stock radio
    You can see to the right of that hole, I have hacked a bit of the plastic off to allow room for the cable into the monitor. You can sorta see a blue wire in the background. That's the wire that goes to the IGN line on the M2. I made a little blade type terminal that slides into the existing ACC line that went into the radio.



    I also had to take the door off, and hack up, a little storage area under where the radio sat.



    Moving onto the sound, first thing after taking the door trims off, was to prep it for the Dynamat. I rubbed it down with general purpose thinners and took off as much sticky stuff as I could



    Then I wanted to fit the speakers temporarily so I could do a sound check, and make sure my wiring was all good. I had to hack a bit off the back of the stock speaker pods to fit the split driver in, but they fit well.



    I then hit the speaker pods with sound deadening. (This is a rear speaker that didn't need modification.



    Next step was to sound deaden the inner of the doors and mount the speakers.



    The idea from here would be to trace the service holes onto some cardboard, and then cut some MDF to size. You then put some tape down on the door, put the wood in place in the holes, another layer of tape and then dynamat. I didn't have time however, and to be honest it sounds pretty good as it is. I did do one layer of tape to keep the water off the trims though.



    Basically at this point, the speakers are wired in, PC is working, screen is mounted, amp is working, and its more or less done. It was just a matter of putting everything back in and enjoying it!

    Thanks for everyone's help, especially to Rowan who gave me some great tips, Wilso for some wiring advice, my Dad for the use of his shed and the idea on how to mount the screen.

    Please hit me up if you have any questions, as i know I have skipped over a fair bit, but time was tight and taking pics etc took a bit of a back seat.

  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Quick question, I couldn't find it anywhere. How do you get the winamp visualizations running behind roadrunner?

  8. #18
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Some more Pics

    USB Hub in the center console



    Screen in use



    Also a short youtube video of it in action

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgZjXUQgggU

  9. #19
    Constant Bitrate soyfish's Avatar
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    Newer pic of the car, have lowered about an inch and added some 19's


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