Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow!

Just as a note, I went through the thread and deleted things that I did not think were important. This includes ideas that didnt work. If it wasnt deleted I added captions to tell what happened with the idea.

I decided to redo the wiring again. This makes the 4th edit of the cabling. Basically i want to show the car off in the near future, but with all the cables running from the console to the bottom of the seat, it looked terrible. I decided to take the plung and redo it all. Run it in a proper manner to look more OEM. It took about 3 days to do, and during that time I was poked with alot of wires that resulted in a infection in my hand and arm. I was sick for almost 4 days. Here are pics of me slowly redoing it.




Here is a picture of the old panel, and now the new panel.



I also included pictures of the PC redo. I put the HDD back near the PC to eliminate data loss, and also put the DVD ROM back on IDE. When it was on SATA, when ever I put a DVD movie in while in CF, Windows Media Player and CF would fight over who had dibs on the DVD. Putting it back on IDE has eliminated that issue.




More ideas to come.....

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

When it was on SATA, when ever I put a DVD movie in while in CF, Windows Media Player and CF would fight over who had dibs on the DVD. Putting it back on IDE has eliminated that issue.

I'm sure you checked this but isn't there a setting for WMP not to auto run a DVD giving the rights to CF?

Originally Posted by skeet2331

I'm sure you checked this but isn't there a setting for WMP not to auto run a DVD giving the rights to CF?

Im sure there was, I recall that when the prompt came up, I check marked for WMP to do nothing when a DVD is inserted, yet everytime I change DVDs or reinsert one, the prompt came up asking what I want to do causing CF to lock up and crash. I think the main reason is because the DVD Rom was meant for IDE. Basically I had a conveter to convert it from LAPTOP port to IDE, then had another adapter to convert it to SATA. Im also thinking that the SATA adapter is really only for a HDD.

hi hijack. Just passing through to see what you're up to with this project. It looks like you have a lot on your plate!

Simplifying your circuits, by combining a few smaller ones together will make for a cleaner finished look, and perhaps make it easier for you to troubleshoot future problems.

Fuses

Having a fuse for every single component is redundant, and is really not necessary. Say, if you have three items that each require a 500 milli-amp fuse, combining all three circuits to one, 1.5 amp fuse block, is all that is needed, thereby eliminating excess wiring and materials. Another example is -two, ten amp devices, can go into one 20 amp fuse.

Also, the Break Apart Glass Fuse Holders that you are using for individual fuses are not the safest solution in my opinion. While inexpensive, the connections are bare at each end, and on top. That is not good. I'd like to reccommend the FUSE HOLDERS listed on this page so that I can sleep good at night, knowing your CARPC isn't exposed to potential hazards.

http://www.ktcables.com.au/fuses.aspx


I also see an issue on IMAG0140.jpg

in the picture, you have a zip tied USB blue-tooth device connected to a bare female USB connector

Should the device fall inside landing on top of the motherboard or PSU, it will spell disaster. As a preventive measure, put some black tape on the metallic USB connection and re attatch via zip tie.

* IMAG0042.jpg - This picture shows two black boxes (invereters?) sitting on top of live power terminals with a power brick that is loose, partially exposing 120V, is a hazard. Again, this is disaster waiting to happen.

I hope I didn't sound offensive. These are just a few tips of advice to happy carputing. Otherwise, everything else look great.

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:

Originally Posted by dMand

Having a fuse for every single component is redundant, and is really not necessary. Say, if you have three items that each require a 500 milli-amp fuse, combining all three circuits to one, 1.5 amp fuse block, is all that is needed, thereby eliminating excess wiring and materials. Another example is -two, ten amp devices, can go into one 20 amp fuse.

Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

Originally Posted by rdholtz

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:



Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

In an automotive application multiple fusing is done because circuits run through metallic body parts, ie fenders, doors and such. Sometimes there are two or even three circuit protection devices for a headlight circuit.

In the event of an accident at the right front corner, for example, the metal fender gets crushed, therefore crushing the wires fixed to the metal body panel causing a short in the left front headlight, turn signal, and marker light circuits. The fuse is there to protect the wires from burning. Having each circuit fused is indeed the safest way to protect the passengers within. This is why you see a redundancy of fuses, and fusible links in an automobile.

Now lets take a look inside your pc, you have components like hard drives, cd roms, and fans. Why are they protected with one large fuse, and not protected by several smaller fuses?

Fundamentally speaking, let's say the 1500 milli-amp fuse blew, instead of one out of three 500 milli-amp fuses. What would be the worse case scenario?

Originally Posted by rdholtz

I'm not a wiring guru, but I've done some wiring. I'd agree with the things you said, pretty much, except for the one quoted here:



Adding fuse sizes makes no sense to me. If it works to have a 500ma fuse on a circuit, then by combining all three on a 1500ma fuse means it would take 1500ma through the fuse to blow it, and we really want it to blow at 500ma to protect any of the devices. That single 1500ma fuse doesn't seem like very good protection.

I've been taught that the maximum protection comes from placing a right-sized fuse close to each device we're protecting, and another (higher-rated) one -- or a breaker -- at the point closest to the power source. Thus, in vehicles, we have a fuse/breaker box under the hood near the battery, and a fuse box in the cabin near the devices. Admittedly, placing all the cabin fuses in the same box means some of the devices are pretty far away from their fuses, but I suspect that's to reduce cost and ease maintenance.

That was my logic also. It would take a huge surge to blow that fuse out, so what if the surge is smaller then the fuse and it takes the device but not the fuse.

Believe it or not, some fuses have been consolidated, like the camera fuses. All cameras are rated at 1amp but I put 2 amp fuses for the additional IR laps that help the cameras see in the dark better. Everything else I was just to worried about blown equipment. Also I really wanted to use fuse blades, but at the auto parts stores they only have the ones I used. I decided to go with what was popular and easy to repurchase once something goes wrong and I have to replace something.

Now when it comes to were the fuse goes, most devices are near the fuse, but alot of things like screens and cameras have long cable runs. I have not had any issues with the cable runs, I know when I had the screen in the third row, any type of spike would blow the fuse. The only draw back with my design is if a fuse goes the passenger seat has to come out. I had no choice though, I saw no place else to put it.

PS: The wifi and BT are held by the ZIP tie which is connected to a plastic piece that is connected to the metal. It cannot move unless smashed. Hopefully the case will be done before that happens.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

That was my logic also. It would take a huge surge to blow that fuse out, so what if the surge is smaller then the fuse and it takes the device but not the fuse.

Believe it or not, some fuses have been consolidated, like the camera fuses. All cameras are rated at 1amp but I put 2 amp fuses for the additional IR laps that help the cameras see in the dark better. Everything else I was just to worried about blown equipment.

With all due respect, a power surge doesn't blow a fuse, but a spike will. I was simply making a suggestion to consolidate the devices that you have.

With three devices, each rated @ 500mA, consolidated to a single 1500mA fuse, nothing will be damaged because the combined fused rating is appropriately calling for 1500 milliamps. Electrical devices consume the voltage and amps that they're rated for.

Originally Posted by dMand

With all due respect, a power surge doesn't blow a fuse, but a spike will. I was simply making a suggestion to consolidate the devices that you have.

With three devices, each rated @ 500mA, consolidated to a single 1500mA fuse, nothing will be damaged because the combined fused rating is appropriately calling for 1500 milliamps. Electrical devices consume the voltage and amps that they're rated for.

OOPS, I meant spike, thanks for correcting me. I just feel more comfortable having them separate. I would rather be super anal and have them separate then be $h!++ing my pants worrying about me loosing devices. Eventually I may get the fuse blade holders, but considering I am not adding much more to the panel, i don't need the extra space. Only thing left is a USB relay, 5 more eggs for 5 additional screens, and the fuse spaces have already been set aside. Once all that is done, nothing more will be added.