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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow!

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    No there isnt, especially if your a Techno Sexual and have to have everythingggggg, lol. I think that when designing a Car PC, you take your figure, then times it by 3, and that is what you will spend. I only have 2 more things to spend money on, and thats the redo of my seat, which is about $100.00 or less since i did most of the work already, and the dash front and top, which is going to be alot since the top screens have to be done from scratch....
    Yea i thought i had everything till i saw your build lol... I have to pay for most my fabrication so thats whats been kicking my cost up. The electrical stuff i've been able to handle so far at least but then again my comp isn't even up and working since i don't have my motherboard yet.

  2. #12
    Maximum Bitrate Kimota's Avatar
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    Hey HijackZX1,

    Glad to see your making good progress, looks like you'll be done (or close to it) in time for the meet.

    Sorry to double post (also posted on the ps3 keyboard thread) here's the answer to your question about using autohotkey for volume

    The script below is an example but it remaps volume control,mute/unute to f5,f6,f7 this should work for you, just change the f keys (functions keys) to the corresponding keys on your handheld laser pointer.

    f5::Send {Volume_Down}
    f6::Send {Volume_Up}
    f7::Send {Volume_Mute}

  3. #13
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimota View Post
    Hey HijackZX1,

    Glad to see your making good progress, looks like you'll be done (or close to it) in time for the meet.

    Sorry to double post (also posted on the ps3 keyboard thread) here's the answer to your question about using autohotkey for volume

    The script below is an example but it remaps volume control,mute/unute to f5,f6,f7 this should work for you, just change the f keys (functions keys) to the corresponding keys on your handheld laser pointer.

    f5::Send {Volume_Down}
    f6::Send {Volume_Up}
    f7::Send {Volume_Mute}
    Thanks Kimota, I forgot all about that post.... now I dont have to remember were it was, just go to my work log. I am really hoping I can go to the meet. I am having some other set backs with work, family and finacial issues, so I am hoping I will be somewhat done and able to attend the meet. I really wanted to at least have the seat and PC done.... The dash I know im going to have to wait on, since its really pricey since its so custum.

    Yea i thought i had everything till i saw your build lol... I have to pay for most my fabrication so thats whats been kicking my cost up. The electrical stuff i've been able to handle so far at least but then again my comp isn't even up and working since i don't have my motherboard yet.
    I have the same issue, I was at least going to try to do the seat, but I said no, I dont want it to look cr@ppy. I did make the mounting bracket for the PC, I even went and found the same fabric to match the seat so that when I take the seat to be done, all they have to do is stitch it up, no material for them to charge me more for. The dash on the other hand, as stated above is custum, and I cant do it. For the front of the dash I was quoted $150.00 which is OK, but for the top, its about $250 to $450.
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  4. #14
    Constant Bitrate roflcopter's Avatar
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    Sorry about posting in the other thread...

    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Tell me were it says not to. If you look under your car you will notice a ton of electrical wiring wrapped in split loom. If you notice alot of it is thicker guage wire. When I took apart my interior to run audio wire, there was not one wire above under 16 guage except the ground points. Abviously they did that for a reason. So why on earth would i run a thick 4 guage wire through the inside? I dont like having to worry about crimps and other fire hazards. There isnt really anything under the car to catch fire because its all metal.

    PS: Can we please focus back on question, if you want to discuss my cabling techniques then do it in my worklog, dont steer this one to a subject that it isnt inteaded for.
    I personally wouldn't risk putting the power cable to the elements like that. If you run over something that can yank on it and rip at it, cause a short and some bad problems (ie... fire). I would just be very careful in ensuring that it is completely snug against the chassis. It just makes me uneasy because the chassis is your ground point and to run it along that scares me, personally...

    You make a good point in that there is nothing to really catch fire underneath, but dont be too certain with a fuel tank, greases and oils down there.

  5. #15
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roflcopter View Post
    Sorry about posting in the other thread...



    I personally wouldn't risk putting the power cable to the elements like that. If you run over something that can yank on it and rip at it, cause a short and some bad problems (ie... fire). I would just be very careful in ensuring that it is completely snug against the chassis. It just makes me uneasy because the chassis is your ground point and to run it along that scares me, personally...

    You make a good point in that there is nothing to really catch fire underneath, but dont be too certain with a fuel tank, greases and oils down there.
    It cool. Sorry if I come off as a @$$, I get testy when people ask why i do things the way I do.

    Now that i am calm, i'll explain myself better. My truck uses 2 AMP kits, because one wasnt long enough. It goes from the battery to a fuse, from the fuse to a heavy duty circuit breaker and 2 more heavy fuses. From this circuit breaker it turns into 8 guage wire which is under the carpet to the passenger seat underneath which powers the PC. This first half of my setup is setup in a way that it cannot snag on anything. It is so closely tied to the frame. The second half though (which is the wire you see) Is strictly for my Sub AMP and the smaller red wire is for my rear cam. This wire does have to be redone. I was in a hurry to install it. Once I start on my 3rd redo of the CarPC (yes sadly number 3) This wire will be rerun closer to the body and out of sight. Right now I dont worry about snags because the truck is very high up, it doesnt look high up because I have the side skirts that make the truck look lower. I would have to run over a HUGEEEEE object for that wire to be even touched alittle. I am going to be dropping my truck really low and adding a sports body kit, so that wire will most def have to be redone.

    Also on a side not, just about anything can snag under the car. Which includes fuel lines, etc, it seems to be something rare.
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  6. #16
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    I decided to redo all the cabling to be routed to the middle. It took a long time to do. Also it is so hot I could put bacon on the hood and cook it. I also redid some other components and set each area of my car for a specific task.

    The front center console is specifically for front amps, all wireless and touch devices. Also the HD, XM and GLIs are in this area.

    The bottom of the passenger seat is specifically for all electrical connections, I moved the inverter and adapter for the VGA splitter to this location so there is no interference to other devices.

    The rear center console is going to hold the PC, power supply, and Sound Blaster Sound Card. I will also be placing the BT Dongle, Wifi Dongle, and Sierra Aircard in here.

    Here are the pics of the install.

    Here is the first day I took off the seat, to see if it would fit and look okay.



    Here is the redone panel. I still have to make it look neat and build a case for it. All the connections are here, also the inverter, VGA splitter adapter and fuses. (Please it is not a fire hazard.)





    Here is the cabling from the dash to the front center console. I dash plate covers all this so it wont be noticable. The picture inside the center console are all the audio connection, front amps, HD, XM, 7 port hub with all wireless mice and touch screens plugged in. Only thing I have to add is the line control device that Mitch is still working on.



    Here is the clean run from console to console, I did this as clean as possible.



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  7. #17
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Yesterday I cut out all the metal holders for my MoBo, PSU, and DVD holder and used JB Weld to weld it to the frame and plastic. Only takes 8 hours to dry enough that it doesnt move, so this morning I started to install the PC.

    My PC consists of 3 tiers. The ground tier holds the PC, PSU and fans. Second tier holds the DVD Rom, and sound card. The third tier will be for storage for keyboards and controllers. It will basically be a skin that goes over the top of the other 2 tiers, basically a heavy cover. Here are the pics.

    Tier 1:





    Tier 2: Scrappy seems to like how its going.





    Tier 2: This is with the DVD Rom, and Sound Blaster installed.



    The whole PC runs perfectly in its new home, all I have to do now is build the case out of MDF and then rap it with the same leather. This will work much better then mounting on the back seat like my second install was going to do. I still have to figure out where the HDD is going to go. My case use to be vertical and mounted under the DVD Rom, but now the the case is sitting flat, the HDD also sits flat, which is bad when I hit a bump. So now I have to find a place, but isnt in the way.
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  8. #18
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    used Bondo to weld it
    that's about as effective as silly putty.

    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    My case use to be vertical and mounted under the DVD Rom, but now the the case is sitting flat, the HDD also sits flat, which is bad when I hit a bump. So now I have to find a place, but isnt in the way.
    It will be fine, cars have movement in all three axes, so no matter how you mount it, you will have pretty much the same chance of platter damage. It's true that the Z axis has the sharpest changes, but it's not that much more. If you are worried about it, mount it vertically in tier three in a special compartment near the back.
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  9. #19
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyracer View Post
    that's about as effective as silly putty.



    It will be fine, cars have movement in all three axes, so no matter how you mount it, you will have pretty much the same chance of platter damage. It's true that the Z axis has the sharpest changes, but it's not that much more. If you are worried about it, mount it vertically in tier three in a special compartment near the back.
    OMG..... I must have had a space out moment, I meant JB Weld, lol

    As for the HDD, I just feel better with it verticle.
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  10. #20
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    How's it going with the install man? Would love to see the custom mounts for the screens.

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