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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 / 56K= D@mn this $h!+ is gonna load slow!

  1. #821
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    that's not the problem, a good low lux capable ccd is not hard to get & you can def see much better that you would be able to see with your eyes. my camera was amazing in the dark too. the problem is the bloom effect you get when a bright light hits it, it overwhelms everything around it & & you can't see much of anything else.

  2. #822
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    The rear camera I have is pretty good with that. It takes bright light and scales it down. So say a cars headlights hit the camera, it almost turns it into a slight glow, rather then a blinding light. I could never find the model camera again though, they say it was discontinued. Its a CCD camera. Its really long, not short like the side cameras I have, which I think maybe CMOS, even though the seller swears they are CCD. Only way to see what happens is to install the camera and test at night. I have been wanting to do it, but its been raining without warning lately and the cameras are only waterproof from a certain point.

    Eventually I do hope to get the thermal cameras (waiting for the pricing to drop). If they get down to at least $500.00, then I wont mind buying them. Then I just hook up a sensor so that when its night time, it switches to those cameras instead. I even left room in my dash for the upgrade.
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  3. #823
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    N-Computing U170

    I was browsing through the posts and someone was interested in trying this unit for I guess a second unit. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...398&CatId=3509




    That's when I realized that this unit solved alot of the down falls that the older one had. They claim it can now use USB devices of all kinds. The unit is also dramatically cheaper. $90.00 per unit. Also powering it would be much easier because it is all done via USB. Only thing is, it requires a Dual Core or higher. That means the little ATOM I bought will not work. Thankfully I had this laying around:



    This is the PC from install number 3. Its a IEI Kino 690S. Has a AMD Dual Core 1.9ghz processor, and 4gb of RAM. I called N-Computing and they told me that the host PC can still be used normally, so I would buy 5 U170 units and the sixth would be the PC itself, which I would have control of.

    I know some of you are thinking, well why dont you connect it to the main system you have. Well with 31 USB devices and all the games and stuff I want to run, i do not want to take the chance of any slow down. Plus if this does work out, it can be a seperate model for other users to go by. A simple main PC that does what they want, then they simply add the additional stations. I will also be able to X out a lot of hardware. Will only need one HDD, the RAM I already have, Mobo, 1 PSU. Thats takes away 5 additional mobos, the RAM for them, the HDDs, powering them all. It will also kill so much wiring. I can now also X out the etehrnet switch and run from main pc to second pc, then use the second pc's second ethernet port to connect the access point. I still may need a second PSU though for powering my hubs and kvmp switches, which is no big deal, still save money.

    The only problem is it all revolves around, will it work. In a normal setup it would, but in mine with all the switching and what not, I have to be sure. So next Friday, I am going to buy one and start testing. I hope this works out.
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  4. #824
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    JustChat_1 opened my eyes and made me realize that my install is inconsistent, flawed, and has no logic on how its currently set up. He didn't say it directly, but he made me realize it. It makes no sense why parts are all scattered all over the car. There are so many fans, and what not, so in saying that, I am ripping everything out and starting over. Basically my install was an idea, with another idea added later, followed by more ideas layered on that. The result is a big mess with me having to cool and maintain so many areas of the car. This is no longer acceptable. The rear hatch area will be scrapped, extended to hold more and rebuilt from the ground up. All components of the PC units will be all placed in the back. Then I am going to restore the car back to OEM. So basically the middle seat that was taken out will be restored. The front center console will be replaced with original and all panels I goofed up will be replaced. Only the top dash, B pillar and C pillars will keep their mods. USB ports for the users will be moved to the doors. This will be the final iteration of my install, if it doesn't work out, then I give up. So this is the last chance. I am sure this will work out though.

    In saying all this, the thread is now closed. I am starting a new one that focuses on the new design. This thread can be used for ideas on other peoples installs, but because I am changing the install drastically, this thread is now pointless and will confuse others.

    Here is the link to the new one. 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)
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