Alright, I'm new here so I thought I'd start here. I don't know much about cars, but a lot about computers and electronics. I've been doing some digging around on here and elsewhere on the internet for all the information I could possibly want for my car PC install. I've found all but one piece of information (and I think I'm just overlooking it), but more on that later.
The Idea:
Put a PC with touchscreen control in my 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix.
The Parts:
+ Mac Mini (PC) - $604.52; mac.com
- CNX-P1900 with MacPac and CNX-P5V(PSU)
+ Xenarc 700TSV (screen) - $349.80; avdeals.com
- PAC AAI-GM24 (aux input)
- PAC SWI-X (steering wheel contol)
- Assorted PC extras
+ Assorted fabrication materials - $100ish; Halted HSC, Radio Shack, Hobby Town
The Plan:
- Relocate stock head unit
- Setup Mac Mini to dual boot OS X and Windows XP
- Connect PC audio to head unit via AAI-GM24
- Connect steering wheel controls to Mac Mini IR sensor via SWI-X
- Route power to Mac Mini, 700TSV and PC extras via CNX-P1900
- Fabricate console mounts
- Mount Mac Mini, screen, PC extras
- Giggle with glee
The Problem:
Powering the CNX-P1900 for startup with stock remote start
I've dug all over for the solution to the problem but can't seem to find it. I know the CNX-P1900 says it's able to be 'pulse started' but I'm missing how to wire it up. I know how to tap the RAP line so that the system remains on after ignition shut off which will get it to power up when the key is turned "ACC". But as far as I know that won't get it with remote start. I do know that the stock head unit, power windows, and A/C do not come on with the remote start but stay active with the delay power off deal. If you can solve, or direct me in the direction to solve this one problem, it'd would be a great help and would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The Steps:
(x) - Plan
(x) - Buy PC Components
(x) - Customize PC
(-) - Construct HU Bay
(-) - Construct PC Bay
( ) - Construct PC Faceplate
( ) - Buy Car Install Components
( ) - Paint
( ) - Install
The Status:
- Just a few more parts for the PC coming.
- XP installed and running completely customized on the Mac Mini.
- The Mini is getting a new case top and I've started on it's dock setup.
- I'm starting work on the HU bay while I wait for more supplies to come in.
The Speculation:
- I'm thinking of using a constant-to-pulse relay rig to tap a constant power feed (possibly from the DIC) for remote start but not remote shut off.
- I've also had the thought of adding a second, flip-up, display to the back of the center console. The second display will connect via a USB video adapter for a 'dual monitor' feel. The rear display will not have any controls. I will probably leave this for a later addition and only be sure to leave a USB port open.
The Finished Product:
- Currently Spent $1054.32ish
- Stay tuned for full write-up.
My install is in a 2007 Grand Prix and I have the same issue. Right now I just have to deal with the computer not booting until I have placed the key into the ignition. Also, is there any particular reason why you are relocating the head unit as opposed to removing it?
I'm also installing in a 2007 Grand Prix.. mine is a GXP with the monsoon though, so I'm easily able to ditch the factory head unit and just use the factory amp for sound (which I would recommend if you guys have them as well).
Anyway, all I'm doing is using the ACC line that goes to the factory radio and use that for the ACC line going to my M4-ATX.
Same deal here. The amp isnt the greatest in the world, but it is sufficient for my needs at the moment.
With regards to the ACC line, there is not one in the wire harness for the factory stereo (The factory head unit doesnt need a switched 12v). This isnt a big deal as I have captured the switched 12v off the ignition (brown). It would be nice, however, for the computer to begin booting once the remote start has been activated. To confess this hasnt been a high priority for me. However, now that Ive had my install for about six months and everything is functioning properly, Its time for me to see if I cant mess things up with a few tweaks.
I went ahead and caved and bought the PC and monitor to get things started. I'll be getting the PAC parts next pay check. Hopefully by then I'll have more information on the remote start and can get the PSU parts as well. Fabrication will start around the monitor and the PC when they get here. Then I'll start a good write-up of it all.
I'm relocating the head unit for ease of install and the ability to use it when the PC is not functioning.Originally Posted by Disefyl
I don't have the Monsoon system. Again, as far as I know the AAC and RAP lines need the key set to ACC to start.
Please do mess things up with tweaks.Are there any advantages to using the 12v ignition over the RAP?
If I find anything out elsewhere, I'll be sure to share.
There isnt really an advantage except that the rap doesnt turn off until the door opens.
Has anyone tried what's outlined here: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/hard...y-circuit.html
In theory all we would need to do is find a wire that has power when the remote start activates, then run the momentary output to the pulse start wire on the P1900.
That is if I am reading all that correctly: Charge comes in, relay switches, capacitor charges, relay switches back.
I'm getting all the parts together and am starting fabrication. I just want to clarify something about the CNX-P1900. The install shows putting the "valet switch" on the ignition wire. Am I right in that the CNX-P1900 will start with a pulse then switch to monitoring the ignition line once power is applied to it? Is there a timeout on how long the CNX-P1900 will wait for power on the ignition? Wouldn't it make more sense to put the "valet switch" on the main power lead to the CNX-P1900, from the battery? The install manual seems to not explain the pulse start very well, epically when it comes to the ignition and the "valet switch". I'll be having the PC shutdown and not go into stand by, so no power to the CNX-P1900 won't matter. I just want to make sure that if I move my "valet switch" to the main power lead, that it won't have any ill effects.
The difference in where you place your valet switch decides how your pc will behave once flipped. Personally, I have a switch on both lines into my M2-ATX. The one on the acc line sends a shutdown (or whatever you have windows power settings configured to do) command to the computer once flipped off. Flipping the one on the main power line is the same as pulling the plug. It basically depends upon what you want to do. If I had to choose between the two though, Id probably go with the one on the primary line since majority of the time if your flipping the switch you want it off not necessecarily shut down.
Alright, other than the pulse start, I've got it all worked out and am on to construction. I've updated my fist post to reflect a brief progress report. I'll be updating that as I go and adding a link to a more complete write-up later.
Posting Permissions
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks