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Thread: And so it continues... 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring Edition

  1. #11
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    thanks tidder, but I still gotta ask;

    got any pics?
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  2. #12
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    One of these days you'll all be sorry...
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  3. #13
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    when that day comes, at least we'll have some pics to look at while we are all being so sorry.

    On my lunch break at work I started measuring the pocket on the bottom of the dash. It's going to be a tight fit for the deck, and I'll probably have to lose the little metal bracket in the back (not worried about it, because all it seems to be there for is the pocket has a little tab that slots in to it to keep it steady.) I bought a metra 99-6501 kit to have a nice clean base with straight edges to install the deck into.



    I started chopping that up, and I will fabricate that into the existing pocket. The problem is the pocket is made of PP (polypropylene) and will not bond with the ABS cement, so I will just make a whole new face out of ABS.
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  4. #14
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    I got a little more sanding done. I actually sanded past the last layer of Cement back into the first layer, and found this:



    No big deal though, I just applied a thin layer to fill those back in, and will sand again tomorrow. On the spot where the clock was, there was still some places to fill:



    With a bigger space to fill, it's hard to get a straight line the first time. I thought about using the metal mesh like what turbocad6 did in the sticky on the fabrication forum, but I didn't think it was a big enough gap to need it. If I were to do that again, I might have used just a little bit.

    I still have to make the straight edge along the top and bottom of the screen bezel. That should be fairly easy though with the angle aluminum as a mold. There will be more sanding, and probably one last coat of cement, unless there's just a few tiny little holes, then I'll just use some bondo glazing to fill before I start the finishing sanding.
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  5. #15
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    More work done:



    and where the clock was:



    It's getting a lot closer to finished. I sanded the last layers down, and the tiny little bubble holes in the first pic will be filled with bondo glazing then sanded back down.
    The straight edge on the top and bottom will take a little longer than I thought it would be, but the aluminum straight edge is working exactly like I thought it would. The ABS doesn't stick to it, and it's a perfect edge.
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  6. #16
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Applied the glazing putty:



    and where the clock was:



    ...along the sides:



    Then I sanded with 220 (even though the package recommends 320-400) and came up with this:







    I didn't wait for the glazing putty to completely harden, so there are a few small spots that need to be redone, but that's easy.
    I am still working on the top and bottom edges. It's hard to get a nice line with the ABS cement, I think because I bought it last summer and it's been sitting in my storage unit until last week, but when the MEK evaporates from the cement, it bubbles up. Thin layers will prevent the bubbles, but I seem to remember being able to lay thicker layers without bubbles when I first got the can of cement. The straight edges are thin but thick in terms of the evap'd MEK.

    I'll get to work on this a little more tomorrow, so I will post some more progress then.
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  7. #17
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    after another layer of glazing putty and some more sanding:



    It may not look like it, but it's nice and smooth. It will be more apparent when the krylon fusion is sprayed down. I've still gotta do the straight edges, but I hope that is closer to being finished by tomorrow.
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  8. #18
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    It all comes together with the paint:



    This is just the base coat, most of it will be sanded down, similar to a primer coat, but not quite. This layer helped point out the last few little spots that needed fixing. I'm going to wait a whole week on this paint to allow it to fully cure before I sand it down and spray some more.

    Here's some close-ups:



    top part of the screen bezel. Nice, clean line. I ended up just sculpting this with bondo.



    Where the clock used to be.



    Along the left side of the screen bezel, it has a nice smooth transition.

    Next project while I wait for the paint to cure is to cut some holes on the back of the screen to mount two 40mm fans. I've got a speed saw, which will work to cut, but I need a metal blade.
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  9. #19
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Looks terrific. I admire your patience with the paint . . .
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  10. #20
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Thanks, I was just looking at it thinking "well... the paint is dry to the touch, maybe I can get away with sanding it now..." But I remember what happens when I rush it. I want this to look perfect, so I will wait. BTW the color is just a base layer, it will end up satin silver again, and maybe after I redo the seats it will be re-painted Marine Blue Pearl (body color) to match the other dash panels.

    Here's a before shot:



    and after:



    I think the window switches look so much better in between the vents, everything just looks like that's the way it should be. Now though, the top where the clock was looks a little blank, but I think that it looks nice, I'm just so used to the clock being there.
    2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser TE
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