Thread: 2007 Ford Mustang

so after going back and forth about whether to close off the holes or not i decided it was best to retain the factory look. Since i expanded the gap in my faceplate to accommodate the 8" lilliput bezel i had to relocate the three openings a little higher in order to fit the three buttons and the cig lighter.



here i am getting ready for surgery.


Almost there just a little higher...



And this is the final fit...the buttons fit kinda snug so i will sand a bit more off and smooth out the edges, also there are some gaps around the buttons, sanding around those areas would only expand the gap, so instead i will use some dynatron to fill in those gaps.



Question: I was using 40grit to rough sand the dynatron around the bezel, but i may have taken to much off, so i re-applied the epoxy to the low spots. MY QUESTION IS when do you know it is time to move on to a finer paper.

I'm glad you decided to keep the stock buttons, I think you'll appreciate it a lot better than jamming some PC peripherals there.

With the dynatron, there's not an easy way to tell when you are done with the sanding, you've just got to check it with your eyes, and feeling the surface with your fingers. When you start sanding into the original pieces, then you know you are there. You'll usually need to do about three applications or so to get it close. The first sets up the bond between the two pieces, the second fills in the majority of the shape, and layers after that are just fine tuning the low spots.

To fill in the gaps by the buttons, you should cover the buttons in tape, make sure there is no exposed plastic, and then apply the dynatron in the gap. The taped buttons will act as a mold, and the dynatron won't bond to masking tape. (Two layers at least.)

It's looking good so far. Keep it up.

Hey Hessian, yours is actually one of the first logs i read on the boards.

Hey guys so i've uninstalled my center console and brought it in for measurements and some brainstorming. The Mac Mini measures 6 1/2"L x 6 1/2" W x 2 1/16" H



Here's a look at my console


Currently the opening is wide enough to fit inside...



However i will need to make more room in order to fit the Mini flat inside.


Here's a picture of the reverse side of the console, there are two fittings sticking out one for Line In and the other for additional cig lighter.



Here's where I'm going to need some engineering ideas on how to fit the Mac Mini as far back in the console, in order to be able to open the cubby box and insert CD/DVD in optical drive without fuss or muss. The Mini has to be removable, so i'm thinking of constructing some sort of frame so that it can slide in and stay locked in.


On the left side of the cubby box you will notice a formation in the paneling that comes out forward more than the rest. The rest being the area where the cig lighter and line in are. I will have to remove that part and make it flat and also open up a hole big enough to fit mini. Any ideas guys are welcomed.

IMHO shaping is the most crucial part of all the steps. Here is where you dont want to cut any corners because the byproduct will reflect it. I added about 3-4 layers of dynatron. I constantly had to sand, fill, sand, fill...in order to get the best possible shape you will have to do this several times. I rough sanded with 40 grit, then moved up to 100 grit & 220 grit, and toped off with 400 grit. I will wet sand the primer and paint with 600 grit and 2000 grit respectively until i reach my desired results. So in this picture you will see all the tools i used, which includes a razor, pen and the box cutter casing. Box cutter casing serves to purposes, since it is hollow and sharp around the edges i used it to shave off big chunks of dynatron that accumulated and as a block for the paper. The pen helps me to achieve a nice round surface around the screen with paper wraped around it of course. I used the razor around the buttons in order to seperate some of the dynatron that was preventing the buttons from being pressed.






This image contains the 3 aerosol cans i wil be using. The bulldog adhesion isnt really necessary, but i had some laying around so i decided what the hell. I will lay on a few coats of primer. The primer should fill in microscopic lows to make it really smooth.

Ok guys first things first, my screen bezel has been complete for about a week. I havent posted picture b/c my camera is acting up, but i'll try to have them on here soon. I began researching how to wire my entire setup, but it seems every thread i read introduces even more confusion to my previously held views. So i will post what i've discovered so far.

Here is J1 pins 4 & 1 are black presumably for ground. Pins 6 & 3 are red presumably for battery. Correct me if i'm wrong but do i solder the red 16 gauge pigtails together and extend them with a power cable of the appropriate gauge size say for example 8 gauge? I dont intend to use pulse start so i'm assuming i should cut that off, j/k i'll tape it or [Insert Alternative].



I will be substituting J2 for the Mac pac which i subsequently purchased. Pin 5 (red), Pin 6 (black), pin 7 (brown) and pin 4 (blue) are not connected to anything and have the exposed pigtails. So what exactly does pin 5 get connected to if pin 7 is the secondary output which i presume get connected to the Screen.



So in order to connect my screen (8" lilliput) i cut the car cig adapter, but left the egg filter on just in case. I read plenty of threads where different members did different things, so i'm guessing the egg filter left on or cut off will still power the screen. With the egg filter someone reported a dimmer screen, is that so? Also it is my understanding that a 1A fuse is adequate protection for the screen. Does it make a difference where i install this fuse, for example closet to the screen?



I'm also contemplating a distribution box, but i still havent read through all the treads i've found. Which brings up another slew of questions. Two different types of distribution boxes, fused and unfused, correct? In a hurry so other questions i have i'll search 2nite before asking.



p.s. looking to hookup up stock headunit to mac mini, anyone know of some helpful threads don't hesitate to forward, thanks

i havent posted in a while, been saving up for speakers and amplifiers.

I have a question regarded the stock battery terminal clamp in my car.
The yellow circle within the picture above indicates where the power cables attach to the clamp, however i will need to change the clamp to attach the new power cables i'm running for my hardware. What do i do with the pre-existing cables? cut or detach them? aftermarket clamps i've seen on partsexpress.com have 8 awg outputs. i dont think i can fit my pre-existing cables and the new cables i'll be running for my amp/psu...will somebody please enlighten me or point me to a place that will.



thanks in advance