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Thread: [DEAD]Project Turtle: 1993 Toyota Tercel/56K=FAIL

  1. #501
    Low Bitrate Xygar's Avatar
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    Not sure if I'd technically call that a "cold" air intake. It looks like it practically sits right on top of the engine, which has a tendency of getting pretty "hot" .

  2. #502
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xygar View Post
    Not sure if I'd technically call that a "cold" air intake. It looks like it practically sits right on top of the engine, which has a tendency of getting pretty "hot" .
    It does get hot if its sitting at an idle, but if I'm driving around, it stays cool. I just got around to putting the pipe from the intake to the cold air.

    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Your engine is really clean..... Is this after the wash?
    No, I just wiped all the oil off of it. All the oil leaked down all over my A/C lines and fan, etc. It looks nasty underneath everything. I'll probably wash it tomorrow because it's supposed to rain tonight... I gotta redo the silicone on my bumpers too, they're starting to look rugged.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  3. #503
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Late night post FTW!!! If I make little to no sense, you all know why...

    Two things:

    1. I changed my avatar again!
    2. rdholtz's post about making the power cord for his USB hub reminded me that I need to finish mine.


    The second thing there led me to a revelation in the method I use to send audio to my HU. I use a Sony Xplod GT-320. Yes, it has an AUX in on the front, but it also has RCA inputs in the back. Unfortunately, to get those to activate, a device has to open them through the Unilink(Unibus) port. I can use an adapter like this one:

    It tricks the HU into thinking that a CD changer is attached, and it opens the RCA jacks so the audio will come through. That will clean up the front appearance. Also, if I get the power run to my hub, I can use a USB sound card and eliminate a lot of noise caused by running a super-long 1/8" extension from the CarPC to the HU.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  4. #504
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeflashstuff View Post
    Late night post FTW!!! If I make little to no sense, you all know why...

    Two things:

    1. I changed my avatar again!
    2. rdholtz's post about making the power cord for his USB hub reminded me that I need to finish mine.


    The second thing there led me to a revelation in the method I use to send audio to my HU. I use a Sony Xplod GT-320. Yes, it has an AUX in on the front, but it also has RCA inputs in the back. Unfortunately, to get those to activate, a device has to open them through the Unilink(Unibus) port. I can use an adapter like this one:

    It tricks the HU into thinking that a CD changer is attached, and it opens the RCA jacks so the audio will come through. That will clean up the front appearance. Also, if I get the power run to my hub, I can use a USB sound card and eliminate a lot of noise caused by running a super-long 1/8" extension from the CarPC to the HU.
    If you buy high grade RCA cables, you shouldnt have EMI problems. Do you have noise in your setup now?
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  5. #505
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    I have a little engine noise, but at present I'm using the AUX IN at the front of the HU. That adapter and a USB sound card will keep my wires at a minimum and (in theory) eliminate most of the noise
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  6. #506
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeflashstuff View Post
    I have a little engine noise, but at present I'm using the AUX IN at the front of the HU. That adapter and a USB sound card will keep my wires at a minimum and (in theory) eliminate most of the noise
    OH you know what........... A simple GLI (Ground Loop Isolator) would fix that. I have alot laying around.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

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  7. #507
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    IDK if I plug in headphones, there is no noise.

    I've already ordered the parts, but even if it is a ground loop, I wanna do this anyway for the sake of outward appearance. It will eliminate the ugly 1/8" cable run(that I haven't hidden BTW) and (in theory) give me better sound quality(even if by a little). We will see if the noise is still present after this is installed.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  8. #508
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeflashstuff View Post
    IDK if I plug in headphones, there is no noise.

    I've already ordered the parts, but even if it is a ground loop, I wanna do this anyway for the sake of outward appearance. It will eliminate the ugly 1/8" cable run(that I haven't hidden BTW) and (in theory) give me better sound quality(even if by a little). We will see if the noise is still present after this is installed.
    I know your going to hate me for saying this, but you may need to upgrade the speaker wire, or something isnt grounded right. What I would do is buy a sample of 16 gauge wire and connect that to a speaker that is known to make noise, then connect to headunit. Of course, dsconnect the factory wire, but dont pull it out because you are just testing. I upgraded to 12 gauge wire and it doesnt have noise.
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  9. #509
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    You're gonna hate me for this, but I'm already using 12 guage speaker wire.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  10. #510
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeflashstuff View Post
    You're gonna hate me for this, but I'm already using 12 guage speaker wire.
    HAHAHAHAAHAHAHA, then you may have to check your ground points. The easiest thing to do though is just use a GLI. I have 6 laying around. You only need 1 so I can send it to you. It doesnt muffle the sound, and they were expensive.
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