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Thread: [DEAD]Project Turtle: 1993 Toyota Tercel/56K=FAIL

  1. #761
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Just finished installing my Audiobahn tweeters and midwoofers. My stereo sounds a lot better now. The only problem I have with it is that I got the driver's side tweeter a little off-angle, so it kinda hits the dash when I close the door. I plan on fixing that sometime later today (it's 2AM right now... Church @ 9AM...) But, the CarPC did the Windows 7 disk checker and FUBAR'd my Centrafuse XM radio and Bluetooth... I can't reset any of my settings because they won't save! I'll deal with it later...
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  2. #762
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Pending a reinstall of Centrafuse and the Bluesoleil stack to repair corrupt settings files... I'm going to pull the case and set the OPUS to a 10 minute shutdown delay, hopefully that fixes things...
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  3. #763
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Uninstalled Centrafuse and reinstalled it. All is well now. It turns out I broke some things on my driver's side door on the plastic panel I put the tweeter on. I can fix it tomorrow with a little plastic welding. Also, I plan to finish the shifter knob sometime soon, I'm just having a problem with how I'm going to run the cables through to the USB hub in the dash.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  4. #764
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freeflashstuff View Post
    The screen goes off with the ignition on the car (or, rather, when I open my door). I think it's because the OPUS is hard-offing after 30 or 45 seconds, whatever it is. I've yet to figure out how to set the jumpers. The diagrams in the manual kinda confuse me...
    Honestly, I would just have the PC control the screen. Tying the screen to anything else doesn't allow you to see whats going on. I know by doing it the way you have it now, looks and feels more like a head unit type setup, but honestly I wouldn't try to go that route. I am proud that when I turn off my car people see the hibernating logo, adds to the nostalgia of having a car pc. I don't think WIN 7 has the hibernation screen though. My understanding is that the OPUS only hards off when for some reason it cannot turn off the PC, or the PC is taking so long. Hibernation on my over bloated system only took 20 seconds. If yours is taking longer, then something is wrong.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

    1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
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    1x Win 7 PC

  5. #765
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Problems and Brainstormin'

    PROBLEMS

    If I could figure out how to use Hybrid Sleep, I'd be doing just fine. I have it enabled, I just don't know if I'm supposed to use Hibernate or Sleep to trigger it. Hibernate is done in a matter of seconds, so that's no issue. Right now, I just have it set to "Shut Down" on the power button. I need to set the OPUS to wait about 30 minutes after the IGN line goes off to send the shut down signal, then wait a minute to hard off (just in case something goes awry...) Also, if I have my door open when I start the car (my custom IGN on until door opens circuit is OFF), the CarPC comes on, goes off, then starts back up. (The IGN line is hot, then when I start the car, goes cold, then once the car starts, is hot again). How can I eliminate that annoying issue?
    BRAINSTORMIN'
    My friend, Jimmy (his username here is tozir, but he never logs in except to bug me through PMs and to look at my progress), made a good comment to me the other day. He said, "Why didn't you put your tachometer and voltmeters on the CarPC rather than on your pillar?" For me that triggered an immediate facepalm//kick in the crotch because I hadn't actually really thought about it until that particular moment. I filed that moment in my brain, and we kept on talking. Well, yesterday, I went out to the Turtle, opened the passenger door, clicked the ignition switch to ACC, then switched it off, and went inside to do some reinstalls (see previous posts) (waaaaaaay too freakin' cold to do it in the car). While I was working, I started thinking to myself, "I wonder how much longer I can keep this running?" (I removed the head unit's faceplate and turned of my Lilliput to minimize the drain, I always do when I plan on remoting in to do some work like that) [/RAMBLE]
    I know that the FB can do that. I've seen it done many times across this forum. My question there is: How would I do the tachometer since I don't have OBDII?

    • Which brings me to my next point: If I'm going to have a FB, why not make a virtual dashboard with it? My physical dashboard is a fuel gauge, a temperature gauge, and 5 idiot lights (battery/alternator, air bags [it stays on because the ECU is FUBAR], seat belt [driver only], check engine, and E-brake). It seems so simple to do, minus having to take the dash apart, but I need to replace some bulbs anyway, so I might as well, right?
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  6. #766
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    Yay for the FB

    Your car should have a tach pulse wire, even if you dont have a tachometer. You have to have a wire somewhere to control engine firings anyways, so it is there and you can use a frequency to voltage board if you wanted to.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
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  7. #767
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Well, I have a tachometer hooked up and molded into my A-pillar now, I could just use the wire from it, I guess. The biggest thing I worry about with getting a FB, is the programming and CF integration side of things. The screenshots I've seen make it look easy, but I don't know.
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  8. #768
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Also kinda wondering what exactly it would take to get the idiot lights and gauges to integrate into the FB...
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  9. #769
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdholtz View Post
    If there's a way to do it, you might consider making both of those fans blow out, and open up inbound air access points down below. The inbound doesn't need fans, as long as the outbound has them.

    Or, if fan noise is an issue, you might pull air into the bottom with fans and let it blow out the top without fans. That puts the fans and fan noise further away from occupants.

    Can't sleep. I started going back through the worklog and "Cleaning house. " editing language and whatnot. I spotted that post and got to thinking, Jimmy and I pulled out my back seat the other day, now I can access that entire panel, giving me the chance to make the fans on top take the air out of the panel, and to cut some holes in the bottom of the panel for fans to bring cool air in. (hot air rises, cool air sinks, right?)

    Also found this post:
    Quote Originally Posted by ozzy71 View Post
    So, based on those numbers, your peak maximum load would be 50 amps--

    And, since the OPUS is 20 of the 50, it's not a real 50. The opus 120 is closer to 10amps peak. So, your real peak load is most likely around 35amps with the Screen.

    I'm not one to under do it... You are in the realm where it'll work, but you are pushing your 30amp relay. The 30amp relays will take around 100amps of surge, and carry the 35amp load for an extended period-- but it'll burn up quicker.

    Now... realistic runtime numbers should be closer to 28 amps-- unless you really do keep the volume cranked. Then the loads will be higher.

    I've searched several 700CCA batteries trying to find the Ah ratings... Averaged them out to make sure these numbers are rough-- and came up with 63Ah... fully charged a draw of 28amps will run for 135 minutes.

    Who said math was not fun!!

    now... if you kill the stereo, the run time jumps to 468 minutes...
    Turn it up and impress your friends and neighbors... it'll drop down to 108 minutes.

    These are just a guide-- your install, ambient temp, charge level, wire guage, and music selection will impact the run time...
    I upgraded the isolation relay to a 40 amp awhile back to replace the 5-pin I was using with a 4-pin so I'd have the 5-pin for my ACC on until door opens circuit. Where is ozzy71 lately? Haven't seen him around...
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

  10. #770
    FLAC freeflashstuff's Avatar
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    I wonder if something like this can be done with the FB... It's the closest thing I'd be able to get to OBD. That and making the FB read Check Engine light blinks...
    I have bad luck with vehicles...

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