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Thread: Concorde Version 2

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate jpinkerton's Avatar
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    Thanks for the photos and the links, I thought I had already read through all the Chrysler installs but I must have missed Greatwhite's thread somehow.

    I'm going to have to see if Nexon can do anything for me, I'm going to go search him out

    Edit: Shot of my interior headunit/climate controls area:

    I think the climate controls would have to be moved? And my headunit already aims down, the LCD would aim down, making it hard to read as well. Stupid layout. Why didn't think think someone would be trying to put a touchscreen in there!?

  2. #42
    Maximum Bitrate jpinkerton's Avatar
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    Well I looked at Nexson's posts, and sent him a PM. We'll see what he says. I really don't see a good way to make the LCD part of the dash without moving the climate controls. I can't move 'em down because that's the area that the Thin Client will be sitting.

    As a side note, I did order a slot load DVD drive. Should be here Wednesday or Thursday.

  3. #43
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpinkerton View Post
    Thanks for the photos and the links, I thought I had already read through all the Chrysler installs but I must have missed Greatwhite's thread somehow.

    I'm going to have to see if Nexon can do anything for me, I'm going to go search him out

    Edit: Shot of my interior headunit/climate controls area:

    I think the climate controls would have to be moved? And my headunit already aims down, the LCD would aim down, making it hard to read as well. Stupid layout. Why didn't think think someone would be trying to put a touchscreen in there!?
    You know what though..... Your dash is different, yours actually has a single din. Have you considered a fold out screen? You can move the A/C controls maybe to the glove box and then have the Head Unit where the A/C controls use to be. Maybe put the radio in the glove box and a fold out screen in the HU place.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Motorized-In-das...3A2%7C294%3A50
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  4. #44
    Maximum Bitrate jpinkerton's Avatar
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    My only concern about that one is how well it would stand up to the elements here, from -20 to 120.

  5. #45
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    Screaming POST

    Got to love a fast POST. And shut down. I got stuck in the Windows Millenium Edition era too long just cause the PC turned off in 2 sec.

    Jpink-Awesome photos. An XP disk in a drive is always risky, but not the risk of as many blue screens as the old OS's.

    Buy a Dremel... With the razor,I'm surprised your pictures didn't have blood everywhere!
    Nice Mod.

  6. #46
    FLAC
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    most of the time, the motherboard is fine, and the m4atx is good down to -40*C. The only part that is most likely to cause problem in cold temperature is your hard drive.
    I can guarantee you that the hard drive you are using will definitely stop working below -5*C. You need a wheel bearing hard drive (ie. desktop 3.5" hard drive) or SSD hard drives.

  7. #47
    Maximum Bitrate jpinkerton's Avatar
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    I was thinking more along the lines of a cheap LCD fairing in those temps.

    My plan is to use one of the rockers to control whether the computer starts up or not, that way if I go out and it's -20 I can hit the switch, turn on the car and drive without worry.

  8. #48
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    Thumbs up Lab PWR

    Quote Originally Posted by Punky View Post
    if you work alot on carpc stuff, this is a really good method to do the same thing.
    convert your psu into a lab bench psu, so you can basically simulate your car battery.
    very useful to do any sort of testing.
    http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
    Punky -Thanks for the link. I can hardly pitch a power supply or transformer. Binding posts make it a great conversion. I'll probably add other connectors for extra convenience.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpinkerton View Post
    I was thinking more along the lines of a cheap LCD fairing in those temps.

    My plan is to use one of the rockers to control whether the computer starts up or not, that way if I go out and it's -20 I can hit the switch, turn on the car and drive without worry.
    Check the environmentals in the owners manual. Some are rated to handle temps as low as -15F to -20F below zero, and can push beyond. I had a laptop survive -28. My heart about stopped when I saw I left it in the vehicle overnight.

    Also remember electrically conductive moisture condenses on cold surfaces. Melting snow in the car from your feet is a source. If you see your windows fogging heavy on the inside it's time to take steps to dry it up. My daughter took a group skiing once there was so much condensation it was running off of everything.

  10. #50
    FLAC
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    in my experience all xenarc and lilliput works below -30*C, but they're a quite dimmed at first, until they warm up.

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