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Thread: 2003 vy sv8 commodore carpc

  1. #1
    Newbie VY_SV8_GENIII's Avatar
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    2003 vy sv8 commodore carpc

    This is my first time doing something like this, so please bear with me!
    I have been reading these forums for a long time now, and have finally got my but into gear to buy some bits and pieces. As they say it won't happen overnight but it will happen.

    So far I have got the following:

    -Foxconn 45 CSX mini ITX motherboard with Intel Atom 330 dual core cpu
    - 1 Gb memory
    - Fujitsu 80Gb SATA HDD (from old compaq laptop)
    - Global Sat BR-305 usb GPS receiver
    - USB Bluetooth adapter
    - USB Wireless Adapter
    - Sony 2x50 watt amp
    - Response 4x100 watt amp
    - Response 6.5" kevlar splits
    - Response 6x9's
    - Response 10" Carbon Fiber sub

    I will be using the on board video and sound as another member from here has done this in a similar car and says it is fine. (Thanks VYSS03 )

    Yes, I am a fan of the Jaycar Response stuff, it sounds great and is priced well. The sony will be replaced with a 2x50 watt Response soon.

    I am still not sure what screen to go for, but am looking into it now.

    Nor do I know which radio tuner to go for, I have been told the Griffin Radio Shark is OK ?

    Same goes for the power supply prob go for an M2 or M4 (mb draws bugger all and most usb stuff will be powered via a powered hub.) so the M2 will prob be enough.

    The car has a larger than double din radio, so a custom fascia or modified double din fasci will be on the cards.

    I hope to use Centrafuse if I can get it to work well (costs a fair bit to find out you dont like the nav part!) or may try Road Runner. (if I ever work out how to download it through nisu)

    I hope to start doing something on the weekend, (time, wife and weather permitting)

    Will post some pics as it all happens.

    Thanks for taking the time to read this, I am open to ideas, so feel free to offer any.

  2. #2
    Newbie VYSSO3's Avatar
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    Definately go the 8" !!!

    You wont be dissapointed... start with an Aerpro double DIN adapter / faceplate (Aerpro have SEPERATE BRACKETS which is important).

    Junk the brackets, cut the sides to the right size (i mean the opening where the screen will sit) with the dremel, and fibreglass the shape of the bezel.

    I used a piece of perspex which I waxed and marked the viewable area of the screen on as a template for making the bezel section.

    The back (which neets to be flat for the screen to sit against) went something like this:

    * rough sand (36 grit) the entire back of the fascia
    * build up a 10mm high 'bead' of auto body filler on the flat sections
    * let it GEL (dont let it dry hard)
    * use a razorblade to trim the messy 10mm bead into a thin strip of filler which sits 10mm high and about 3mm in from the very edges of the fascia. It should be around 3 mill in width all around. it doesnt need to be perfect.
    * let this dry fairly hard.
    * with a sheet of 80 grit on a piece of glass / tile / something hard and flat, sand the back of the bezel GENTLY until its even all around.

    You will now have a curved front (aerpro fascia) to match the dash contour, and a flat back to sit the screen against.

    Now the front - making it into a screen bezel!

    You would have trimmed the lower section of the aerpro to make the screen sit in the middle.

    * Cut a piece of perspex larger that the size of the screen.
    * Mark out the screen's viewable area in the perspex ON BOTH SIDES with a permanent marker.
    * masking tape over the permanent marker lines on one sode to protect
    * place the side that hasnt got tape up against the fascia as if it were the screen.
    * WAX THE PLASTIC!
    * tape into place

    * mix fibreglass resin / hardener
    * brush on some resin in teh obvious places - we want to fill the gaps and create a smooth down slope to the line on the piece of perspex. this will take some patience and maybe a few attempts
    * place strips of chopped mat (cloth is too hard to mould for small things like this) and brush with resin etc.
    * try not to be too sloppy and go over the lines - just makes it harder later.
    * if the fibreglass start to gel - STOP and move on to the next steps. whatever you missed you'll have to finish in teh next hit.
    * wait until the resin gels. we dont want it hard - basically the consistency of, say, a rubber band. it will still be sticky to the touch but not brittle in any way.
    * cut, shape, shave, etc with the razor blade the rough shape / angles of the bezel.
    * remember to use the likes you drew as a guide. If youve glassed over them and cant see, turn it over and peel the tape off - thats what the lines on both sides were for - the tape on the back was so the line wouldnt rub off / get covered in crap!


    You should aim to get the final outline of the screen perfect (razor blade and clean cut while the resin is gelled). You can fix this with more resin if its off a little.
    The angled parts / smoothness etc should be of main concern right now - get the right shape and good lines around the screen and you're laughing.

    Finally let the whole thing dry for a few hours, turn it over, and fill all the gaps in the back (remember to leave room (3mm) around the perimeter of oringinal aerpro plastic to sit up against the dash.)

    Finish with auto body filler, get it nice and smooth, prime and paint as normal. Some of the other threads on the forums here should be able to help you here.

    I initially finished mine in GM black, but i'll be refinishing in a 2K black with a matting agent to make it look more original.

    To mount the screen - I took the LCD apart, left all the boards connected except for the buttons and IR receiver (using hacked webcam / USB for reverse cam so dont need to switch AV / VGA etc), masked off the viewable area of the screen, and urethaned the whole lot to the back of the dash, including the hacked aerpro, which was first araldited in to the exact spot.

    I secured the boards with urethane also, stacking them one by one as the cables allowed, seperated with a thick piece of cardboard and a dab of urethane.

    Let it dry for 3 days before you consider putting it in the car again - it bloody stinks like hell.

    Let me know if you need further info.. in terms of pics i dont really have any of the build (generally dont use a camera when ur working with fibreglass) but have a few of some of the stages of the build and some of the finished product. I can take the dash part off and take some snaps of the back of the whole lot next time i do a full clean of the car (i go spaz and pull seats out etc lol). Im sure these will help / motivate you somehow.

    Please feel free to ask any other q's - happy to help if i can.

    Cheers,

    George
    Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity...

  3. #3
    Newbie VY_SV8_GENIII's Avatar
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    It begins.....hopefully.

    Finally I may get to start things. This will be the task for this weekend, I hope. Need to mount MB, hard drive, fans etc, and make end plates and a lid to suit. I can feel a lot of filing coming on to create the main end plate! I also got my USB 802.11 B/G adapter in the mail today $9.00 and it works!!
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  4. #4
    Newbie VYSSO3's Avatar
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    Sweet dude!
    Love the squishy case! I would definately be watching the MB and north/south bridge temps for a while just for peace of mind though. I did this on the Voom2 and slowly but surely adjusted the fans for the best balance of noise / temp control.
    Are you going to run True surround AND bluetooth handsfree by any chance? If so - you can pick up the B/T adapter off ebay dirt cheap (I think i won mine at .99c with free shipping!) - you would also wanna get a $1 USB sound card to run the microphone thru - This is a snag I hit as all the audio jacks were used up in surround (front, rear, sub). The external card makes it a simple job - plug it in, plug in the mic, and set up in control panel as the default recording device
    Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity...

  5. #5
    It ain't easy being a green moderator meddler's Avatar
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    nice work. I look forward to more pics.
    Never let the truth get in the way of a good story

  6. #6
    Newbie VY_SV8_GENIII's Avatar
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    Thanks for asking, yes i do intend to use true surround and bluetooth. The lack of a mic input had slipped my mind !! Over to eBay I go for a usb sound card !! $1.98 problem solved.

  7. #7
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    Keep it up mate! and add more pix

    Hi Meddler

  8. #8
    Newbie VY_SV8_GENIII's Avatar
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    Been a while, but I have finally got most parts and am ready to start the install !! I have had am M2 ATX power supply for a while now, and am waiting for my Lilliput screen to arrive. I got an Aerpro bezzle from eBay, so hopefully the screen install will be quite straight forward. I know it wont look "factory" but as long as it neat and looks reasonable, i'll be happy. As with most of you, time is my enemy these days, so if I get a chance, I my make a different bezzle later. I think getting the factory stereo out is going the hard part. it's supposed to be easy, but as usual it's not! Any way, i'll post some more pics this week.

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