yup!! mostly stock, all except the maximizer beadlocks, rpm skidplates, and integy spring kit-- cause the factory springs can't take 6' jumps-- i shattered front bulkheads, and skidplates daily with them..
the next planned upgrade for it is a titan 775 motor, 'cause i'm not ready to pay for brushless, but want more power..
thanks!! i'm at almost 120k and attempting to convince my brother to do the timing belt(he was going to do it at 99k when i got the car--3 years ago...) there are days i wish i had a hard top for a easier sub setup, but the convertible is nice whenever we get a nice day..
i attempt to not have anything to do with the .com site... they left a really bad impression on me..
when i first got my eclipse, i joined both the .org, and .com.. within the first couple months, i got banned for a while from the .com for 're-posting' a link to a fake auto parts site-- kalecoauto.com, and flamed into oblivion "because i didn't search" of course the old posts were from years ago, but if i had bumped those, i still would have been flamed.... all of it was way out of hand, and the lack of maturity that the forum members/mods had gives me no reason to take part in that board... it might have changed since then, but i kind of doubt it...as long as tearstone is still in charge..
while the .org had some of the same undertones, there was much less of that there, and you could ask a question much easier, it was a much friendlier site, and i ended up spending lots of time there before it shutdown (i spend most of my time here now-- all my important threads were moved here as well..)
blah, now i gotta get the nasty taste out of my mouth...
a little update:
so far, i have designed 3 circuit boards-- 2 for the tails, and one for my dome light.
i haven't gotten a final count on led's for the tails, but my initial estimate--done by using the sq. mm measurements of the led's, and tail circles, calls for 600 superflux led's. though after designing the pc boards, it will be much less...
after some time over at hidplanet.com, i have discovered some very nifty plcc6 led's-- these have 3 chips in them, for a total of 32 lumens output-- per led.
i will be using them in a dome light setup, at this point the design calls for a pair of circuit boards, each using 20 of these plcc 6 led's-- i expect it to be way brighter then stock
with the car being a convertible, the 2 tiny dome lights are the only light in the car, so after this mod is completed, i am considering adding more led's in the foot-wells, and if i can locate a good wiring path, in the middle of the convertible top..
in the process of getting measurements for the dome light circuit boards, i broke one of the lenses attempting to take it apart, and ended up ordering a new rearview mirror-- off a '93 jimmy for $10.99 after shipping.. from past experience, i knew my rear view was used on a lot of cars-- both my '94 chrysler lebaron, and my cousins '94 beretta had the exact same mirror, so it wasn't too hard to find one that no-one wanted..
so all of these boards are designed, i just need to find a decent-quality printer to get clean etch lines on, and will be onto the next step..
i also received the evercoat stuff to form the outside of the tails, but after the stink of just opening the shipping box, i realized, that just like bondo, i can't do the work inside the house, so it is something that will need to wait until it is warmer outside..
and lastly, i finally upgraded to a transflective screen!!!
about a week ago, chris(mo-co-so, if you don't know who it is) posted that he had accidentally sent out a 250nit 669 screen to get the transflective treatment, instead of the standard high-brightness panel, and because he couldn't sell it normally, was willing to get rid of it at a discount-- $325+ shipping(a 701 TR retails for $499.99).. so i grabbed it, and got it installed.
in the 5 min that i have installed it, and tested it, it is working great!!
i had a brief problem where i tried to use my old 629's vga/usb cable on it, and the monitor kept resetting(it displayed a image for 1 sec, turned off for 5 sec, and kept repeating the process), but after changing out the cable for a the vga/usb cable that was included with the 669, it is working great..
the first thing i noticed was the feel of the touch screen-- on the 629, i could feel when the outside TS layer contacted the inside TS layer, on the 669, i no longer feel this, so the monitor just feels like it was better built..
and some pictures:
keep in mind while i was taking the pic's for the 629, the sun stayed behind the clouds, so this is all mostly in-direct light that is hitting the screen.. and all these pics were taken with the top up. i had the top replaced in november, and am waiting on a warm day before i open it up--they had to replace both side tension cables, and the overall top is much more taught, so i am trying to allow it to stretch out a little...(car stays garaged all the time)
this first picture is the glare i typically saw from the passenger side windows,(pulled out in the driveway, car facing west-- in case it makes a difference) :
and because i didn't feel like messing with my f-stop to get a clear image of both the screen, and window decals, here is a clear reflection off the screen-- i can typically see this and the screen text in most cases:
and this image is a another great representation of how reflective the screen is-- you can see my [pasty white] hands holding the camera in front of the screen, along with some reflections from what i believe is the tiny rear window:
and now, very similar angles, but with the 669, and this time, the sun agreed to make a appearance this time, just to show the difference :
this first angle is very similar-- you can kind of see the reflection of the side windows, but i can no longer make the exact shape out, or see the decals on the side window:
and this next shot, you can still see the sunlight on the corner, but aren't able to make out my hands, and rear window taking the shot:
so that about sums it up for now, hopefully more updates to follow..
Wow, nice improvement with that screen.
That Jimmy mirror that you ordered, it's probably the same one I am using and has 2 map lights in the bottom. If it does, take the time to wire them up, they are VERY handy!
The one issue I ran into is the mirror mount thingy (the metal sqare) that sticks to the windshield was bigger for the Super Duty so you could run into the same problem of it being bigger/smaller. I took the truck to a glass place and be glued the new one for the replacement mirror onto the existing one mounted to the windshield. It has never fallen off.
that's whats so nice about the mirror-- the only difference is the mount-- the actual mirror, connections, and visible part #'s are exactly the same as the one in my car..
just for fun: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
and, here was my lebaron--same mirror!!
it just kind of stinks because those 2 little lights are the only interior illumination i have in the entire car..
i figured i'd upload some images of my circuit board layouts as well-- in case any one is interested in using them:
single dome light board with traces, and leds in place:
both dome light boards:
83mm, or outside lens, led layout:
83mm pc board layout:
83mm led layout overlayed on pc board layout:
125mm, or inner lens led layout:
125mm pc board layout:
125mm led layout overlayed on pcboard layout:
Holy She-ite.... did you layout your own traces? If so, what did you create it in and how did you transfer it to the board?
i, um, 'found' a copy of autocad 2008, and built up the layouts-- got the idea from a member on hidplanet--jp7-- his layouts make mine look like junk:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ghting-project(post #7 has the first board layout)
my boards ended up turning out very similar to his, though it was never a intention--i was originally focused on how to pack as many led's as possible into the housings, and ended up on the circle pattern because it was really the only way to pack a bunch of square objects in a round area.. though to get the spacing correct between each led (according to my drawing, every led is less then 0.5mm difference in spacing for every led), you should see my notebook-- it's got so many math scribbles, it looked like i learned something in math!!
i haven't decided yet on how exactly to transfer them to the boards-- but either method needs a WAAAAAY better printer then what i have.
one method uses the circuit board traces printed on transparencies, and then using a board coated in photo-etchant, you use a bright light to burn off the other part of the etchant..
the other method needs a toner-type printer-- you just print the board layout on regular paper, and then use a hot iron to transfer the toner over to the board..
then after either method, you etch the copper off, clean the board, and solder the components..
i've got the concept down, just need to make it a reality at some point..