There is an aircon duct running directly behind with two outlets either side and a large one below. I was thinking of having a small outlet or two somewhere from these to have cooler air blow around the setup. How does that sound ?
Well this little project is gaining some momentum now with the touchscreen components finally swapped over to the bybyte abs double-din mounting frame.
Took me a while to figure out how to modify the frame so that it fitted into the dash surround cutout so that the screen was flush with the front and not behind the deep lip like the OEM stereo. This gives better access to the touchscreen corners.
Also had to figure out how to arrange the circuitboards as the touchscreen was not the standard Lillyput and the circuitboards had different mounting holes and sizes, along with making sure that all the wiring reached.
1. Modified bybyte frame with touchpanel mounted.
2. Screen and frame backplate fitted.
3. Completed touchscreen in double-din frame ready to mount in the dash surround.
Only have to tidy the cables with some tubing and a strain-relief.
I will post pics of it mounted in the dash surround in the next few days.
OK, I haven't tidied the cables yet but did a testfit into the stock dash surround as a final test for fixing and to show you all what it will finally look like.
I have decided it is best to fix the mounted screen to the surround by glueing some fixing plates to the flat sides of the ducts you can see and then using screws to secure the touchscreen double-din mount to those plates rather than epoxy the screen inplace permanently.
Next task is to finish the fixing brackets for the cpu/psu/cf mounting plate and amp mounting plate then get these fitted before routing all the cabling.
Looking good Kev, love the way that it all fits behind there nice and snug whilst still looking original.
I can say from experience that mounting components under the seats can be a bit of a hassle but it looks like you've got a decent amount of space to work with there.
So now I have the brackets to fix the mounting trays for the Amps and MB/CF/PS into the doubleDIN space completed.
Now I'll be getting onto the cabling to connect the MB, PS and Amps to the OEM wiring harness.
Done my power calcs for the shutdown controller and made the cables for connecting the PS/MB/Amps to the OEM wiring harness.
Got an Aerpro harness with the required Nissan connectors and cut-off the ISO connectors to use the free leads to connect to the carputer equipment.
Power calcs are as follows ...
- Power supply is rated for full 150W (total) upto 85degC with 25% derating applying after that upto absolute max temp of 105degC.
- Rail capacities of 5V @ 8A + 3.3V @ 8A + 5VSB @ 1A + -12V @ 0.5A + 12V @ 6A
- Pico ITX uses 5V @ 1.89A + 3.3V @ 0.44A + 5VSB @ 0.08A + 12V @ 0.06A
- 7" Touchscreen uses 12V @ 1A
- Allowance for 4 x USB @ 500mA max each = 5V @ 2A
All this gives me a total demand of approx. 35W
with 5V @ 3.89A + 3.3V @ 0.44A + 5VSB @ 0.08A + 12V @ 1.06A
so the supply is only running at 23% total capacity
with 5V @ 49% + 3.3V @ 6% + 5VSB @ 8% + 12V @ 18%
Since I am only running at an expected maximum of < 25% capacity there should be no problems with either overloading nor temperature.
Well it has certainly been a while since my last progress post but this project is starting to move again now that all the work rush has been seen to.
I have found my Navigation software. It is Australian made and called Odyssey Navigator. It uses Navteq maps and works very well with XP and RR, with voice guidance and very nice screen layouts.
I have also installed the DVD drive into the dash under where the screen will be after moving the hazard flasher button to a better position up infront of the steering wheel.
Hey!! I drive a dodge charger and would like to modify my bybyte housing in the same fashion to have it sit flush from the back of the opening. Could u give me a measure of the height of your unit after it was cut? and what the approximate maximum I could cut off for the height. I need to take quite a bit off but would like to know what you did before i disassemble my screen. thank you!! i will post pics of mine after the modification.
The Bybyte plastic housing for the screen was only a little high. The width was perfect.
So all I needed to shave off was the "lip" along the top and bottom of the housing. If you look closely at my screen and housing pics earlier in the posts you can see what I am explaining. Any more than this and it means it would be smaller than the actual screen anyway so that the screen would not be fitting into your opening anyway.
The downside with this is that the housing now does not have any stiffness until it is fixed into the dash surround so the fixing screws for the pressure plate which holds the screen to the front of the housing can slip out no matter how tight you screw them in.
Take your time trimming off the plastic lip. It is thick and tough and requires a very sharp blade which I found easier and quicker than filing it away.