Thread: 2005 Hyundai Tiburon/Coupe Full Install

Thanks for that Solocon.

It's been a pretty busy weekend, had to work saturday morning, then there was the GP qualifying so only got about 3 hours work done. Basically finished wiring for the NOS relay, purge valve, solenoid bottle valve and pressure sensor. Also installed the wide open throttle switch, funnily enough under the throttle peddle, lol.

Only got a few hours done on it today also. But was long enough to hook up the 17" TFT's in the back and check they work ok. As usual took a load of pics and a couple of vids and as usual most of them were useless, lol, the two pics below were the best of a bad bunch:





Well it's certainly getting closer and closer. Had a really long list of electrical 'snags' that needed finishing and that list is looking pretty short now. Then it'll be back to finishing the panels.

Jon

It's been yet another busy week. Still finishing electrical jobs for an hour or two each day after work. Then a couple of hours inside soldering LED's. Basically I'm installing about 1000LED's throughout the factory standard interior panels in the rear of the car (rear 3/4 surround, rear windows surround, boot window surround etc). Initially these are all gonna be swiched from the PC via a power transistor so I can vary the brightness and use them as a general red illumination for the boot. I think ill eventually wire them into the LED controller so I can then vary the brightness in time with the music like the other LED's.

Also had a minor disaster that was nearly a major dissaster, lol. I had built a new driver board for the current sensor, skip the next paragraph if you're not interested in how it works first, lol:

Basically I have a current shunt installed that drops 75mV when 200A is flowing though it to all the electrical equipment in the car. I use an INA139 shunt monitor to boost this from a 0-75mV output to 0-5v and then buffer this through an OPA340 op-amp to give a 0-5v low impedance output to my USB interface to represent 0-200A current consumption.

Anyway! I took this little circuit board into the car, wired it to the shunt first and then proceeded to drop it onto my exposed USB relay interface card which exploded like a mini fireworks display inside my car!

After a few hours of crying, lol, I forked out the £40 to order the replacement board and got back to work soldering LED's lol.

Anyway, the replacement was delivered today and is working fine, the shunt driver board is also performing perfectly after a bench test this evening. So tomorrow I'll wire this into the car (with a lot more caution!) and configure the software to scale the 0-5v input back to 0-200A current.

Then its back to LED's!!

Jon

It's been a pretty productive day. Installed the shunt driver board into the car and configured the software to display the correct readings on screen. Took a bit of work to get the current measurement working correctly as there are quite a few conversions going on before it gets to the pc, it's basically:

1. Current flowing from battery to equipment in car: 0-200A
2. Voltage dropped accross current shunt in proportion to above current: 0-75mV
3. Low impedance output from shunt driver: 0-4.3V
4. 8bit value created by USB interfece to CarPC software: 0-220

So I had to put some formulas into the front-end to convert the 0-220 value back into the 0-200A value that I want, It's not a linear response and it has an offset, got there in the end anyway.

Right, enough of the boring stuff, lol. I finished wiring up most of the LED's in the rear factory panels, about 450 in total. Wired them up to one of my bench supplies for a bit of a 'burn-in' test and the results were just what I wanted. The pictures below are actually the LED's running at about 11volts instead of 12, the camera was a bit blinded by them at 12, lol.

It's a bit of a deceiving way to look at them like this as these panels all face into the car and the lights are mainly there to light the interior. The light from the LED's is very well spread/diffused so I'm sure they'll accomplish this very well.





Last pic to show the value of a good bench power supply, lol. I have two of these, got them both from an electrical recycling plant for nothing after they were thrown out by some tech company, they both work perfectly! Their loss is my gain, lol. Lets me set the supply voltage to whatever I want and accurately measure how much current the lights are pulling.



First thing tomorrow I'm gonna wire up a power transitor to the power supply with a potentiometer dial to create a simple brightness control to use until i get round to hooking them up to the main LED controller.

Jon

Quick update, things are going really well on the install. The factory panel LED's shown above are all installed and after a few little issues are now working well. I've rigged them up to the main LED controller just to allow easy control of their brightness from my front-end.

Still a few bits to finish electrically in the car before I can finish the acrylic panels and re-fit them. Anyway, I had an Idea on how to utilise an old Dell Pocket PC in the car as a little side project and decided to document it in the fabrication section of the forum.

Take a look:

Flip Down Pocket PC

Jon

Well in addition to the last post, thought id just post a few more pics about the car mods but not quite related to my CarPC. Might be a little off forum topic but it's only one post, lol.

This whole mod really started with one bodykit that was available for my car. Took a good bit of saving cash to be in a position to buy the kit and ship it over from the US. But It was such a relief to get it here safe being that it was the only kit for this car that I liked, lol. It's in storage now until I can afford to have it fitted and of course until the interior mods are done.

Some pics of the kit when I received it and of the kit fitted to another coupe:















Can't wait.

Jon

Hey,

Thanks for the comments. Youre absolutely right about the risks of suck a deep integration with the car pc, if it were to fail then I'd loose all my HVAC control, although I wouldnt loose control over the hazard and fog lights as I have hardware buttons down next to my ankles as an over-ride (you need buttons for Hazard lights and a rear fog light in the UK as a minimum to pass an MOT (road legal) test.)

But aside from the HVAC, loosing the carPC doesnt affect the car at all, although it would be a boring journey with no music, lol.

This whole install is actually a development of an install that was done just over a year ago and the HVAC/CarPC has been up and running since then without any failures. To be honest I think the HVAC controller is the most reliable part of the car, lol.

The previous version of my front-end did have some issues but they didnt affect the hardware, they were more inconveniences than anything else. Thankfully since 'version 2' of the front end was finished there havent been any problems.

Same goes for most of the hardware/wiring that's in the car now. Most of the 'infrastructure' was installed last year. What I'm doing now is really just adding to it. So more wires, lol. This was half way through the install last year:



Most of the electrical work is done now, infact it pretty much all is. Just need to have a good tidy of all the cabling and double check everything. Then the subs go back in for their set-up.

More to come.

Jon

hey,

Im using a usb interface with 16 digital inputs and 16 digital outputs, i dont know anything about the fusion brain but i guess its similar.

the outputs drive relays that replicate the old switches and dials from the dash and the inputs read the status of what would have been the lights on the buttons as a form of feedback.

Took a while to get it all working but was definately worth it in the end,

jon