Care to elaborate on this
It uses a chip called an "ELM327" that can read any automotive On Board Diagnostic (OBD) format and convert it to USB data. Used for the engine diagnostics for any car made in the past 20 years or so.
The controller on my car uses industry standard data called CAN bus which is part of the OBDII standard. So I can read the controller data directly by using the OBDII adapter.
Sorry, my question about the ODBII was vague at best.
What was the ODBII scanner going to be hooked up to, certainly not the car's original ECU, however it was answered that the electrical controller has a CAN bus, so he would be connecting the scanner to the controller.
I'd bet we would all love to see more detail on how this is accomplished.
The controller has two db-9 connectors. One is RS-232 and is used to connect a console program that runs on a PC and the other is alleged to be CAN bus. THe RS-232 is used to load and burn SW and parameters, reset the CPU in the controller, etc. the system won't operate when it's ina console mode. The CAN port works when the car is running - will output some real-time data. The controller has two modes of operation. In 'analog pedal' mode, the controller reads a potentiometer connected the gas pedal. In CAN slave mode, the controller reads a speed setpoint and min/max torque limits over the CAN bus. Initially, I'm using the pedal mode. There are also some other I/O's - A pulse stream that can be calibrated via SW and can be used to drive a tachometer, an analog 'HI-Med-Lo power level' input, Regen Braking enable/Disable, and a line that can light the brake lights when regenerative braking is used.
I think I will need to make an adapter to connect between the CAN DB9 connector and the OBDII connector on the chinese reader. I reckon that means a trip to the salvage yard to get a mating connector.
I frankly haven't dug into to the docs enough to understand all the nuances of the controller SW. I have the SW for it that was loaded at the factory, and a parameters file. Virtually everything is configurable in the parameters - Pedal dead zone, response curves, torque & speed limits. I would be a very simple matter to screw the thing up, but I plan to be minimal in any thing I deal with. What I really want to do is read out RPM, Temps, etc.
Anyway, I'm sorry for sounding so dense in my reply.
Cool, my question is what top speed will be. That's when the manual gearbox will shine.
Thanks for all the contributions to this Blog. I am at the early stages of building what I believe is the first Citroen DS EV (amanoauto.blogspot.com) and reading your Blog has been extremely helpful.
I've had busy weeks, family events on weekends, Ravens in the playoffs, etc., etc. Worse, it's been running in the 20's & low 30's for the past two weeks, and me with an unheated garage. But yesterday I installed a 240 V outlet on the side of my house for the charger and made sure the batteries were charged up.
Today I got in the car and tried to make it move under it's own power and .... nothing. Dag. But wait! I had read on line about a parameter in the controller that was sometimes not set right when the thing was delivered. Hooked up the laptop, changed a zero to a one, and heard a VERY satisfying 'chuck' come from the contactors inside the controller.
And I rolled up & down the driveway a few times. It ran great! It's not licensed yet, but i'll go get temp tags tomorrow and start taking it out on some short road trips and get it inspected.
After my daughter's graduation party this weekend, I really want to get the computer in the car and begin running wires for all the audio, cameras, instrumentation, etc.
I still really want a max range test! Probably means you will be stranded somewhere unless you drive in circles by your house, but it would be a good idea to know your max and not to go over it... again. :D