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Thread: Getting rid of keys in my '02 Volvo S60

  1. #1
    FLAC
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    Getting rid of keys in my '02 Volvo S60

    Hot Wiring
    Today I began the reverse-engineer process of the ignition and got it to start without the key in a few times. This was slightly less than perfect though so after Christmas I'm going to take out a multimeter and check the voltage on each ignition wire at each stage of the startup.

    Arduino Starter
    I don't trust a computer to control the starter, so I'm going to hook up an arduino micro controller and program it to control the entire sequence of key-turns. This will allow me to do the following with some programing:
    • Start the car
    • Put the car in accessory mode
    • Turn off the car
    • Allow shifting
    • Disable shifting
    • Disable starting


    Sheeva Plug and Arduino
    The Sheeva plug will "talk" to the Arduino and tell it when to use its features. This makes room for a ton of cool stuff.

    Bluetooth
    When the Sheeva plug senses my phone connected via Bluetooth, it will tell the car to start, but will leave the shifter and doors locked.

    RFID
    A USB RFID reader is getting put behind the handle for the driver's door. I'm injecting an RFID tag the size of a grain of rice into my hand. The RFID reader has a range of about 15 cm. So now as I'm reaching for the door handle, it will unlock the drivers door.

    Fingerprint Scanner
    A fingerprint scanner is going to be put on the dash board. When I scan my fingerprint, if the car isn't already started it will start, and it will make sure the shifter is unlocked.

    Web Page/AIM/Text messages
    I'm already able to communicate with my car via all three of these methods. I'm now going to add a few more commands to the list for controlling the starter and locks.

    Never a dead battery
    This is awesome. We all know how awful it is to come to a car with a dead battery. With my sheeva plug running all the time, the battery takes about 20 hours to die, that's a bit shorter than I'd like. To prevent the battery from EVER dying, the sheeva plug will monitor the battery constantly. When the voltage drops below 11 volts, it will start the car. When the voltage gets up to 13.5 it will assume it's fully charged and shut off the engine.

    Text Message Alerts
    Security without range. Every time the car is started, I will get a text telling me it was started and what triggered the start.

    Preventing extended idles
    The engine will shut off automatically if all of the following conditions are met:
    • The car is in park
    • The car was not started by fingerprint reader
    • The car has not been put into drive at all
    • It has been on for over 10 minutes
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  2. #2
    Newbie Coda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    When the voltage drops below 11 volts, it will start the car. When the voltage gets up to 13.5 it will assume it's fully charged and shut off the engine.
    1st things 1st, wow, totally awesome for the whole shebang!

    2nd, most alternators charge between 13.8 & 14.4 volts, it'll be hard whilst engine on to acurately measure battery charge, you'll most likely only be able to see the charging voltage. Could I recommend that, in the situation of low voltage being used to start the engine, that it be allowed to run for approx. 20 mins to ensure enough time has been given to charge the battery?

  3. #3
    Variable Bitrate
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    You are nucking futs my friend.
    A thought though: Maybe my math is wrong but let's say full charge is 14.4V and it dies after 20 hours. Assuming dead equals a complete discharge (0V), that means it's losing 0.72V/hour. If you want your car to start after it goes down to 11V, that means it will start every 4.72 hours or so. Yes?

  4. #4
    Newbie Coda's Avatar
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    Generally, for a normal car battery, anything below 11.5ish is "dead", for this kind of application, you would really need an optima yellow top style deep discharge battery. The yellow top's can cope with starting a car as long as no more than 10 seconds crank is required, gets problematic after that.

    Of course, the definition of dead does depend on the OP, everybody uses different ones, I use the above due to years in the motor trade

  5. #5
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coda View Post
    1st things 1st, wow, totally awesome for the whole shebang!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Coda View Post
    2nd, most alternators charge between 13.8 & 14.4 volts, it'll be hard whilst engine on to acurately measure battery charge, you'll most likely only be able to see the charging voltage. Could I recommend that, in the situation of low voltage being used to start the engine, that it be allowed to run for approx. 20 mins to ensure enough time has been given to charge the battery?
    I was thinking about this too. I'm going to play with it a bit and see if there is any way I can accurately see the battery's voltage. If not, I may get a hall-effect ammeter and have it monitor how much current is going to the battery. When that current drops to only a few amps, then I'll know the battery is charged.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tical84 View Post
    You are nucking futs my friend.
    A thought though: Maybe my math is wrong but let's say full charge is 14.4V and it dies after 20 hours. Assuming dead equals a complete discharge (0V), that means it's losing 0.72V/hour. If you want your car to start after it goes down to 11V, that means it will start every 4.72 hours or so. Yes?
    By dead I meant a no-start situation. Once the battery gets down to about 10 volts, all the electronics have shut themselves off and the car won't start. The math is also not that simple. The volts/hour number fluctuates quite a bit. I think from experience it will take about 15 hours to get down below 11.
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  6. #6
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coda View Post
    Generally, for a normal car battery, anything below 11.5ish is "dead", for this kind of application, you would really need an optima yellow top style deep discharge battery. The yellow top's can cope with starting a car as long as no more than 10 seconds crank is required, gets problematic after that.

    Of course, the definition of dead does depend on the OP, everybody uses different ones, I use the above due to years in the motor trade
    I do have a deep cycle battery, just not an optima. The battery is also huge. So starting from 11 volts is not an issue.
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  7. #7
    Newbie Coda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
    I may get a hall-effect ammeter and have it monitor how much current is going to the battery. When that current drops to only a few amps, then I'll know the battery is charged.
    The fusion brain thingy has a 50amp current sensor as an extra iirc, could hook it up to the ard.

  8. #8
    FLAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coda View Post
    The fusion brain thingy has a 50amp current sensor as an extra iirc, could hook it up to the ard.
    Well the issue with that, is that it uses a shunt, so the current actually flows through it. The line that is getting measured is the alternator to battery line. So that line can have up to 135 amps flowing through it during normal operation and 600 amps during a crank.

    Hall effect sensors don't actually connect to the wire. They measure the magnetic field around the wire. They're actually awesome.
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate simplex's Avatar
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    Good idea, bad implementation. You can do all this stuff (and much more) with a decent
    car alarm system and some custom electronics, for about the same price,
    but without the insane "never dead battery" idea. By insane, I mean wasting fuel,
    unnecessary pollution, killing the battery (deep discharge battery only means higher tolerance
    for accidental deep discharge, and it takes 1.5-2x time to kill it), not to mention problems when
    you leave the car indoors, for example in a garage, and the engine starts (exhaust gas can kill).
    Check my worklog:
    Corsa + Atom + Gentoo Linux + 9" capacitive touchscreen

    Lord of the boards: DFI CP100-NRM

    "Or you can try Ubuntu, but than don't tell everyone you are using linux,
    because it's just a secret unreleased prebeta of Windows 3829" :P

  10. #10
    Newbie Coda's Avatar
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    Most alarms with remote start will usually offer an option to start for very low temps and low battery voltage, so it's already ou there, this just seems to be a lot more customisable. Perhaps the option of a solar charging panel perm connected to the battery would eak out more life, as would starting the engine at a higher voltage, say 11.8 volts.

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