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Thread: 1998 Cadillac Seville STS - almost stock

  1. #11
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    No wonder your install is taking so long. Are you trying to do it all at once? I would recommend doing the front and working your way to the rear. It might be easier as you will know where to run cabling and everything to help speed up the back installs. Where are you mounting everything? What are you doing about power? Are you adding any capacitors to help with power drain? I started reading through your worklong, but after seeing that it's 11 pages, I decided to skip and read parts later.

    For my install, since I only have the single monitor, I'm going to stick with Windows XP MCE 2005. I plan on stripping all the non-essentials out and disabling all services that aren't needed. Also, since I'll be able to surf the net with my aircard, I'm installing anti-virus. I was considering doing dual HDD inside the case, but with the limited room for cabling I decided to add 1TB externals as needed. I have a total of 6 USB ports on the case, and I'll only be using 2 as I'm running extension repeater cables for the touchscreen and 4-port hub. I'll be documenting everything as I actually start the installation this week. Since I located my battery drain myself, I won't be needing to take it back for anymore repairs other than 2 front tires later. Any tips since you've been doing this a while? Also, with the emergency lights and siren, I'm not sure of the connections for them yet as I'm still waiting for them to arrive in the next 1-3 weeks.

  2. #12
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    Well, after looking about 3 hours ago, I stumbled upon something I was afraid I would have to tear the dash apart for....the antenna connection for the stereo. Surprisingly, it was in plain site. I've marked it in the photo inside the black ring. Thank god I got curious and decided to check wires. Ok, ok...so I stumbled upon it while checking for a 12v constant power wire for the monitor to connect to before deciding to just put a terminal strip in the trunk for power distribution.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by secret52 View Post
    Well, after looking about 3 hours ago, I stumbled upon something I was afraid I would have to tear the dash apart for....the antenna connection for the stereo. Surprisingly, it was in plain site. I've marked it in the photo inside the black ring. Thank god I got curious and decided to check wires. Ok, ok...so I stumbled upon it while checking for a 12v constant power wire for the monitor to connect to before deciding to just put a terminal strip in the trunk for power distribution.
    LOL, why is it so far down..... Mine was right behind the radio!

    Why dont you connect the screen to the 12V for the radio? The proper thing to do would be to run a second wire to the PC and have the PSU power the screen, that way it turns on and off with the PC. You dont have to worry about running a ground wire for the screen to the PC because you can simply ground some place in the dash area, maybe the ground for the radio?
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  4. #14
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    I was considering using the PC PSU to power the screen, but there are only 3 wires that actually connect on the PSU (red [battery +], black [ground], white [ignition]). That's why the unconnected wires are taped up on the power connection for the PC. I'm not sure why it's so far down, but it makes it easier for me to connect the iSimple TranzIt for the audio. And with running the terminal strip in the trunk for the power, I will only have one connection point for power. Makes it easier to trace any shorts as I can disconnect the strip and see if the short stops (should I have one again). Plus with only a single power connection, there's a lower possability of "hidden" wiring shorting out. Only things that will be connected to the terminal strip are the pc and the monitor. Plus I will have a couple extra connections should I decide to add a better sound system.

    Single power tap = simple install without shorting or multi-splicing.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by secret52 View Post
    I was considering using the PC PSU to power the screen, but there are only 3 wires that actually connect on the PSU (red [battery +], black [ground], white [ignition]). That's why the unconnected wires are taped up on the power connection for the PC. I'm not sure why it's so far down, but it makes it easier for me to connect the iSimple TranzIt for the audio. And with running the terminal strip in the trunk for the power, I will only have one connection point for power. Makes it easier to trace any shorts as I can disconnect the strip and see if the short stops (should I have one again). Plus with only a single power connection, there's a lower possability of "hidden" wiring shorting out. Only things that will be connected to the terminal strip are the pc and the monitor. Plus I will have a couple extra connections should I decide to add a better sound system.

    Single power tap = simple install without shorting or multi-splicing.
    My only concern is that say you turn off the car, the screen will shut off right away, while the PC is still trying to power down. If for some reason the PC hangs and doesnt shut off, you wont know it because your screen is off. Thats why the screen should be connected to the 12V rail of the PSU, the wires that normally connect to the hard drive and PC appliances. You just use a Molex splitter to split one and send 12V to the screen. That way when you turn off the car, the PC starts to shut down, you see whats going on, then when the PC does its thing, it will turn the screen off. Same with starting up, if you have the screen on a different 12V source, then it will come on right away and you will see a blue screen until the PC kicks in, that doesnt look very good.
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  6. #16
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    The terminal strip is connecting directly to the battery for power. I already spoke with a master mechanic, and he recommended this rather than connecting to a cigarette lighter or wiring within the dash. Being connected directly to the battery, there will be constant power even when the vehicle is turned off. The PC PSU board is designed to place the pc into sleep/hibernate when the vehicle is turned off, hence the white wire running to the ignition. It also is able to shut down the pc should the battery charge drop below 11V. The only thing that will draw off the battery with the vehicle shut off is the monitor. Same as if I were to use the cigarette lighter adapter for power instead of directly wiring. Again, single power connection = lower risk of shorts and issues later. I am even considering using a capacitor as a backup just to be safe...but I am still debating whether this will be needed or not. Maybe add later.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by secret52 View Post
    The terminal strip is connecting directly to the battery for power. I already spoke with a master mechanic, and he recommended this rather than connecting to a cigarette lighter or wiring within the dash. Being connected directly to the battery, there will be constant power even when the vehicle is turned off. The PC PSU board is designed to place the pc into sleep/hibernate when the vehicle is turned off, hence the white wire running to the ignition. It also is able to shut down the pc should the battery charge drop below 11V. The only thing that will draw off the battery with the vehicle shut off is the monitor. Same as if I were to use the cigarette lighter adapter for power instead of directly wiring. Again, single power connection = lower risk of shorts and issues later. I am even considering using a capacitor as a backup just to be safe...but I am still debating whether this will be needed or not. Maybe add later.
    YES, I agree with your mechanic but what I am saying is that the screen should be on the 12V rail of the PSU. I think maybe you are getting the 12V lines mixed up. I am not talking about the line that the battery connects to on the PSU, but the 12V that connects to the HDD. That would control the screen and thats how 99.9% of us have it. Reason being is that if something goes wrong, if the PC doesnt have control, its harder to trouble shoot.
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  8. #18
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    I understand what you're saying completely. Tap an unused molex connection and use the 12V rail inside the PC that would normally run to a hard drive or optical drive. Only thing is, since I opted to not have an optical drive installed on mine, I don't have the molex connection inside. I have a SATA power connection only. Reasoning at the time was it's mounted in the trunk so no need for optical drive. Bad planning on my part. Had I known I was going to lose the molex and have to buy a different power cable later, I would have opted for an optical drive. Wiring harness with the molex and SATA is $12.95 + shipping. It would probably be better to wire the way you all have, but that would require drilling the case which really isn't needed at this point. I may opt for it later though if I run into problems or decide to move to a different vehicle.

    Being of a computer background and majoring in Information Technology, I could probably wire my own harness (shouldn't be a problem with spare parts from old PSU's and computers), but I don't have much time right now. Currently I'm splitting my time among 7 different things daily....college, work, military, volunteer fire, caring for my 88 year old grandfather, physical therapy due to knee surgery, and my fiancee and step-son. Should I get more time, I'll probably add or modify the install.

  9. #19
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    Where there is a will, there is a way.



    http://www.amazon.com/CRU-4-Pin-Adap.../ref=pd_cp_e_2

    This converts SATA power connector to a MOLEX connector.
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  10. #20
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    One small problem. I only have a single SATA connection, and that's being used for the hard drive.

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