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Thread: Mitsubishi Evolution X

  1. #11
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRSUR1ZD View Post
    Thanks Soundman for the good advice I know it can be difficult to tell people what to buy. i will take your advice to heart but I am also on a budget. i was looking for components for the front in the $$250 price range and a decent set of 3 ways for the rear. Not really sure if i want a sub yet, and last but not least a 4 ch amp in the $400 price range.
    i assume that your car has the low end audio system?(not the RF system-- last i listened to one, it was pretty good for stock, and would definatly hold me over for a while)

    $250 tends to put you right in the middle of most decent component sets so you should be able to find some real nice sets that shouldn't shove it over budget.

    i have listened to a couple sets of three ways, and really can't say that they are worth the extra cost, and hassle--3 ways are speakers that truly need to be heard before even considering purchasing--after i have compared 2 way sets to their 3 way models(last one i heard, was the hertz 'mille' series-- both the 2way, and 3way), i thought that most of them only added a little bit of depth to the mids-- that really wasn't the extra cost and hassle of the mid(not only mounting, but also the extra wiring, and amp channels that could be needed for them..).

    though, i would recommend upgrading the fronts first, and you might find that the back speakers are not needed--i found this out in my own car, though i drive a mitsu eclipse convertible('01, the 2nd year of the stepchild edition :P), with rear 6x9's directly behind the drivers seats.

    after looking through most of the amps nearing $400, i dont really see any that look head and shoulders above the amps in the $200-250 range.

    for instance:
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M410...owAll=Y&tp=115
    this less known name brand amp has 100watt rms 4 channel output-- about 10 watts rms more than most of the $400 amps, and is about on par with the crossovers also-- 12db/oct hp(15-250hz) and lp(20-200). and it is only $180.

    honestly, after listening to different amps, i can't say that if i was blindfolded, could tell you the difference between a $100 sony, and a $3,000 audison amp.. the higher end amps do have some nicer features, but when on a budget, there are some things that need to be sacrificed..

    another thing to keep in mind is that using a car computer, you are kind of limited in output options-- most carputers only have one stereo output(certain boards have more-- depends on what you got). so hooking up to amps is a little bit different than most head units.

    this is where i would recommend using the extra money to get a external crossover if you don't mind playing with the audio system to get the most out of it(it can take a little tweaking to get it to work good). i use the clarion mcd360 in my own setup--it has 18db/oct crossovers, and allows for s single stereo input that can be setup for 3 crossed-over stereo outputs (sub, mid and tweeter/mid-- one output has a 10x multiplier switch-- you can use it for super highs, or just for mids).

    otherwise, you can use the crossovers on the amps for control, and just use rca y-adapters for multiple amps.

    another option, is upgrading parts as you go-- this can help save money if you shop carefully, but can take forever to complete..

    wow, didn't plan on posting this much.. just kind of kept going

    Quote Originally Posted by jpinkerton View Post
    Why would you avoid the ION?
    if i am thinking of the correct chipset, the ion has problems with 1080p...

  2. #12
    Newbie PRSUR1ZD's Avatar
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    Soundman thank you for your rant LoL. It was highly informative. I never really thought about going with an external crossover but you do have the gears in my head turning. You are right I don't have the upgraded Rockford system and the my friends with the older Evo 8/9 tell me my stock sounds awesome compared to theirs. I have also heard that there is a negligible difference is sound between 2 and 3 way speakers, and the last thing I want to do is complicate wiring. Tell you the truth at this point I have no idea how the hell I'm going to get through the wiring mess. Like i said in my past post I plan on mounting the carputer in the trunk and the Evo X's have the battery in the trunk already so that's one advantage. I was thinking of rewiring all the speakers with some better cable because that last thing I want is alternator wine. I had it in my RSX and it drove me nuts! I will definitely take every piece of advice from you. I hope you don't mind me PMing you later with my final decision on what I will be purchasing.

  3. #13
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    feel free to pm me, just keep in mind that posting your questions in the forum can leave the question open to some of the other experts that periodically check in that might have a different solution.

    alternator whine is more of a power issue than a speaker issue in most cases-- either with poor connections, or poor grounding-- and each car is different, so i wouldn't worry about it too much until you finish the install and find that you happen to have one.

    for wire, i am finding that car audio wire is getting thinner, and is getting to be more smoke and mirrors-- a new wire-- called CCA is messing with people-- CCA stands for copper coated aluminum-- it needs to be a little thicker to carry the same load as a pure copper wire, but also heats up quicker under high load than its copper counterpart. so i would highly recommend spending the extra money on pure copper power wire.

    also, in my last walk through best buy, i laughed at the 'sub wire' that they are selling(seriously, i think i embarased their install tech)-they market it as 12 ga, but it has the copper wire content of a 16-18 ga wire, maybe less, they just make the insulation super thick.

    so i would recommend using home theater wire for any amp-to-speaker connections you have-- the higher the strand count, the better.

    i briefly looked into running car audio specific speaker wire, but found that most wire that i can find seems geared more to be easy to pull through the car then sound quality-- all of it is like the zipwire-- 2 conductors together, that you can pull apart. kind of cheap..

    my first car used 14 ga home theater wire in a white jacket, and did amazing, and pulled through the car easily-- the white jacket added a little more protection to the cable that really helped when i realized that there were some sharp corners that i couldn't see..(those sharp corners would have destroyed zip wire)

    my current car has 13ga 4 conductor run through it--the cable is designed for heavy use for mobile PA systems, and has a overall diameter about the size of a quarter(or 0ga wire)--that involved some choice words to get pulled into the door panels .

    dang, another book... anyways, i have tons of info, just pm/post up your questions, and i'll see what i can do to answer them.

  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate jpinkerton's Avatar
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    And those two posts are why I <3 soundman

  5. #15
    Newbie PRSUR1ZD's Avatar
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    Thanks for another informative post. You really are on a roll tonight! The Ion chipset actually plays 1080p without a hitch. It's actually capable of some gaming too. It can handle left 4 dead pretty well. I've actually abandoned my laptop for now and have been posting from the carputer hooked up to a 12v inverter. It's plenty fast for everyday tasks and I also have it overclocked from 1.6 ghz to 2.0 ghz without a hitch.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRSUR1ZD View Post
    Thanks for another informative post. You really are on a roll tonight! The Ion chipset actually plays 1080p without a hitch. It's actually capable of some gaming too. It can handle left 4 dead pretty well. I've actually abandoned my laptop for now and have been posting from the carputer hooked up to a 12v inverter. It's plenty fast for everyday tasks and I also have it overclocked from 1.6 ghz to 2.0 ghz without a hitch.
    @PRSUR1ZD

    Is there a reason you chose to do this as a trunk mounted unit as opposed to a doub;e-din setup?

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