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Thread: 2007 Ford F350 Crew Cab Build

  1. #141
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    All of the parts are finally blue. It's time to move on and start actually working on putting the truck back together.

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    I had a mishap with one of the speaker trim rings, it fell to the floor and cracked. I think I can make it work for now & I'll make a replacement later. I really want to start getting the truck together.

    So tomorrow, I gut then interior and start adding some sound deadener. I have 100ft2 of B-Quiet Ultimate that's been sitting here for over a year.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  2. #142
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    So yesterday I got the garage cleaned up & out of "bodyshop" mode and back to "Install-bay" mode. I realized halfway through the cleanup that I had missed painting the rear wall power block/Invertor installation panel . So I found a pint of Tremclad black sitting around and thought, why not...it's black, it'll match the rear wall carpet better than the blue anyways, so I added a ton of reducer to it, dumped it in the touch up gun and got it done. The idea was with Tremclad, a couple coats and done...no, not me, it can't be that easy, I have to pay for my mistake of missing the piece. So then hey, why not clear coat it so it's as shiny as the rest of the stuff? So in the end it was 1-2 hrs lost but it's done:

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    Then I gutted the interior & cleaned the carpet while it was out:

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    There is a definitely some rewiring involved here, I'm not starting from scratch being this is the second install but at least things like my 1 gauge wire is already there and some of the speaker wires are run to the doors (even though I may replace them)

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    So today I start adding the B-Quiet Ultimate....prepare for cut-up hands......
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  3. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilG View Post
    Hi Srad,
    The third wire is an ID reference wire that comes from the brick. Without looking, I believe it was the blue one. I just stripped the brown & black & put a DVOM on them, plugged the 110v side of the brick into the A/C wall plug and checked for +19V. I THINK the brown was +19v & the black was grd but please check yours to make sure. It was a long time ago that I did it. if you cna;t get the 19v from those 2 wires, you'll have to strip the blue as well and add it into the testing.

    Then unplug the wall side cord and remove the cord from the power brick completely, connect the +/- 19V output wires from the Carnetix P/S to the respective tested bared wires and that's it.
    The brick must remain attached to provide the ID signal through the 3rd wire (blue I think) to keep the HP laptop happy. Kind of dumb but it worked for me.
    No mean to flood your worklog. I just updated mine with the problem I ran into. Mine only had two wires. However, the other wire appeared to be shielding instead of an actual wire. But when I touched it together with itself, it acted as ground. Gotta see the pics to understand. Check out my log.

  4. #144
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Sorry Srad, I missed this last week, I responded in your work log.

    Well the sound deadening is coming along. Very time consuming like everything else I've done here...

    I got the rear wall & back corners done. I ran the stuff right over top of the factory rear speakers in the back corners, they probably sound better now anyways.

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    I did the internal part of front doors since they will be housing speakers but did just the exterior skin of the rear doors:

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    Then I needed plugs to cap off the large access openings in all 4 doors but have it still be removable for access, here is how I did it:

    Plywood panels cut to the hole size:

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    Stainless Steel panels cut about 1/4" larger than the hole:

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    I bonded them together with contact cement and shot the backside of them with truck bed liner.

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    I then put areo tape around the hole for a gasket seal...

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    and put the plugs into hole. They were a tight friction fit and stayed there on their own. I used a super sticky exterior grade tape to secure them, put the OEM plastic vapor barrier back over top and done...just the door panel to install. This is the back door, the front doors still need the speakers installed first.

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    For anyone counting, I have used up the first 50ft2 box of sound deadener for the rear wall, exterior panel of front doors and interior panel of rear doors.

    Still to do is the interior panel of front doors, pillars between front and rear doors, kick panel areas up front and parts of floor. I have one more 50ft2 roll, that should be more than enough. Regarding the floor, my main concern is up near the firewall and transmission hump.
    Last edited by PhilG; 08-26-2013 at 01:54 PM. Reason: adjust pic sizes
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  5. #145
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Another long weekend gone, not nearly as much done as I had hoped. Too many other things on the go I guess but it's all good.

    I sound deadened the pillars and rerouted the wiring for the power ports that I installed while ago:

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    Mounted the speakers to the mounting plates:

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    Mounted the speakers in the doors & finished deadening the front doors:

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    Trimmed around the speakers with deadener to ensure the front is sealed from the back:

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    Re-installed the OEM black weather proofing:

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    Then the door panel. I am very happy with the speaker installation including the mechanical side of how they are installed and the look.... to this point.

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    This is where I have an issue. From a distance, I don't mind the general look or concept of the blue trim ring but the problem is that up close they don't fit well. I think I may actually have to sub part of this project out to an upholsterer and have something professionally done with the door panels. Maybe a grey/blue combination in pleather/vinyl, I don't know.

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    So that 100% completes the doors aside from reinstalling the map holder along the bottom & any upholstery work I have done, so now onto the wiring:

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    I spent last evening cleaning up the wiring that I have added over the last few years and tagged some of them for easier identification:

    That's it for now, the next step is laying in the new wires then finish sound deadening the floor.
    Thanks for looking!
    Last edited by PhilG; 09-03-2013 at 07:34 AM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  6. #146
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Here's a small update:

    I got all of the wires run to their required locations:

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    Made mounts for the rear cab wall to mount the power panel:

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    Test mounted the distribution blocks and inverter

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    Next up - finish the sound deadening and throw the carpet back in...

    Thanks for looking.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  7. #147
    Constant Bitrate
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    nice work
    My worklog: VOLVO S80 CarPC

  8. #148
    Raw Wave pierrotm777's Avatar
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    Houlala :-)

  9. #149
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    Very nice!

    So says latinmaxima, so it shall be!

  10. #150
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    Very nice!

    I will mention this because I mentioned it elsewhere but Dynamat style sound deadener does NOT require 100% coverage. If you look at the demo they have they use 2 bells and one has a very small piece of Dynamat on it and the other doesn't. The bell without it rings like it should. The other makes a simple thud.

    It looks cool and everything but if you check into it you may find that depending on the type of sound deadener you are using you only need something like 10% of a panel covered. Anything you are placing insulation and carpeting over really doesn't need much if any sound deadener.

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