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Thread: 2007 Ford F350 Crew Cab Build

  1. #151
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Thank you VolvoCarPC, Pierrotm777 & redheadedrod for the comments, much appreciated.

    Regarding the issue on sound dampener coverage, I have read several discussions on coverage. It's almost like the debate on to use a Cap or not. Everyone has their reports & test that they pull out to prove their case.

    If I was using actual Dynamat, I would have really thought it through due to the extreme cost. But B-Quiet extreme is a fraction of the price.

    Also what I noticed while driving my truck around with 1/2 an interior in it there was a lot of noise coming from the smallest of places. For example, there is a bolt hole in the floor that is no longer used between the front seats that was for the middle seat which I turfed. The road noise coming up from that small hole was incredible. If you look at the pics of the pillars between the F & R doors there are huge open access holes there and the only thing covering them was the hard plastic interior panel.

    I felt there was as much value using the material as a temperature & noise barrier to cover large rubber plugs in the floor and huge access opening in pillars etc as I did for the actual dampening value. With 2 6.5" JL C5's thumping in each front door, the purpose of it was also to ensure they were as sealed as possible to act as a speaker cabinet. They won't be perfect with the drain hole still open in the bottom but they should be a lot better.

    If this was a small performance car, I may have given consideration to the weight factor but with an 11,500lbs GWVR and a dry weight of over 9K when the fuel tanks are full, I felt the extra 60lbs could be afforded. I'm also trying to keep the rattle of the diesel out (but I wish I could filter it so the turbo spooling sound would still come in

    So this approach is definitely not warranted on every install but in the is case I feel the cost/weight benefit is there.
    Last edited by PhilG; 09-09-2013 at 06:48 AM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  2. #152
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    Here is a quick tour of the wiring. I will keep this for future reference, I found when I got under the dash to clean it up a few days ago I couldn't remember what a lot of the wires I added over the years were for. I added some of them over 6 years ago when the truck was new. So keeping pics & labeling wires is my new "thing".

    Optical cable, controller cable, remote on all heading to the H701 processor plus wires for pillar power ports

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    Most of the wires that will feed into the console

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    Passenger side spkr wires, LED lighting wire (yellow) and WiFi antenna feed from front fender

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    Spkr wires to JL Amp, LED wire for Sub, processor, optical & remote wire

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    Remote wire for Kicker Amp, remote-on wire for inverter, power feed to distro blocks

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    Bluetooth mic location (if needed)

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    Andrea DA350 PC mic location

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    I ran a yellow wire all the way around the truck for quick access to connect to for any floor ambient LED lighting I may add in the future. I needed to run it to the sub box anyways so why not make it accessible at each pillar?

    I also ran the wire on the sides of contours rather than on the flat floor, it should reduce the chance of damage.

    I debated adding a 110v outlet to the front but having a 110V/15AMP circuit running with all the other wires inside a steel box....nahh, I'll use the GFI outlet right on the inverter and maybe run an outlet to the bed of the truck instead later. I did that on a past truck and it was kind of handy.

    That's it for now, time to run a few USB's then in goes the carpet....finally.
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    Last edited by PhilG; 09-09-2013 at 12:14 PM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  3. #153
    Raw Wave
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    Nice!

    BTW - I always refit the original (or smaller) bolt/screw to "unused" holes. Whether engine bay or floor, I agree that lots of noise gets thru those holes. Same for "unsealed" wiring or hose holes (which of course have grommets!).

    At least the audio "stiffening" issue is quite clear - there are situations where they are required or advisable (it's just that most still seem to believe the old cap bullsh!). But insulation etc is more subjective and effected by other things (noise or heat thru holes, non-rubberised linkages, etc).

    Good luck!

  4. #154
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    OldSpark, thank you kind sir.

    I made a little more progress last night, I got all of the heavy gauge wiring run, so just some 4 gauge left to run to the JL amp plus make the connections at both amps. The rest is just plug & play.

    Here is how I fused/routed the wiring:

    top left.............Straight to 1500W inverter
    bottom left.......Pass through to middle fuse block
    top center........To Kicker amp
    bottom center..To right fuse block
    top right...........Ground
    bottom right.....To JL Audio amp

    The output side of the right hand block has 2 4ga "+" & "-" so I will have 1 spare output for future use.

    I can't decide if I should add an inline fuse holder close to the JL amp with the rated fuse of 50A. JL's are not fused on board so the closest protection is that bottom right fuse which will be about 6' of 4 gauge away. I have several 4ga fuse holders laying around so I guess it would be no big deal to add one.

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    Last edited by PhilG; 09-10-2013 at 12:20 PM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  5. #155
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    The furniture is finally starting to move in!

    Yep, finally the empty tin can is getting some comforts of home....seats,

    I added the 4ga wire from the right fuse block to the left hand amp, the JL

    Then I set the back seat in and checked the clearance of the invertor...all is good...very close, but good.

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    I then placed the amps. The Alpine processor is a friction fit to the top panel, I will likely bolt it through the top trim panel.
    The JL amp can likely be bolted through the panel as well if I can find away to make the controls on it easily accessible.
    The Kicker amp is way too heavy and with the heavy power wires running to it, I think I will have to flush it while mounted to the floor.

    Then I can tilt the panel up like an engine hood and the left two pieces will come up with the panel, while the larger amp remains on the floor. This will only work for the JL amp if the top aluminum access panel can be removed while it's mounted in the trim panel hole. The problem is I have the black trim bezels to go around each of the pieces which overlap the cutouts to hide any gaps. If I made them removable, I might have a chance of the JL AMP cover plate coming out through the top. We'll see...

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    I just tossed everything in loose so nothing is mounted or lined up yet but you can get the idea of the look I am going for.

    Until next time, thanks for looking!
    Last edited by PhilG; 09-11-2013 at 07:25 AM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  6. #156
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    I think I am finally done under the backseat.

    I did manage to mount all three units to the trim board, I will add some kind of a support block under the large Kicker amp so the floor carries the load. I then wired them up on the bench:

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    I managed to get it to raise up and rest open like an engine hood for access:

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    Everything is tied up organized, very few loose wires on the floor:

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    I then decided to power it up, I just connected 12V to the remote wire up at the dash.

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    I then decided to test it with a home DVD player, all I had to do was plug the H701 controller in and connect the DVD player to the optical cable.

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    With gains on the amp set to min and zero tuning plus no sub connected & the drivers side woofer not working, it still sounded 10x better than my last set up. I'm anxious to hear it finished. I am going to have to trouble shoot the drivers side woofer not working, I think I know what it is but I hope I'm wrong......

    This is moving too slow, I have not been getting the hours in the garage I need but at least I am now onto the console... finally. Thanks for looking!
    Last edited by PhilG; 09-24-2013 at 02:58 PM.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  7. #157
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    That alpine PXA-H701 was the best sounding preamp I ever owned and installed. "IF SET UP PROPERLY" !! many of my customers would leave the shop all smiles with this preamp , but would come back 3 months later cause they adjusted the EQ settings themselves creating vast holes in their audio frequency. I would use a RTA " real time analyzer" to set them up. loved that preamp.

  8. #158
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    I know enough about it to know I don't know enough about it....I already have a guy lined up to tune it for me. I will then make detailed notes of TA, curve, crossover points etc, just in case...He is going to set up several profiles for me and save them. Then if I want to play around with it to learn/tweak the profile or if I have a hardware issue down the road, I'm covered. I wish they could be downloaded to a memory stick or something but it's too old for that technology.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  9. #159
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    I think there are presets you can set have ur guy set two presets the same and only adjust one of the two ,my pxa-h701 was hooked up to a home sirius tuner with optical output, sounded phenomenal , I used riderunner to control the Sirius tuner. about a 2 years ago I traded Sirius for a HDradio ,no more subscription fees. About a year ago sold my h701 to buy high end pc parts and audio card. I miss the control I had over the audio that I had with the PXA-H701

  10. #160
    FLAC PhilG's Avatar
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    There are 6 presets on the H701, I will have him build me 3-4 profiles for different music and one for movies then I will still have a couple to experiment with. I love Sirius due to my almost OCD level of having to mute commercials, the Sunday races when I am travelling, plus the lack of radio stations in my area. However I use my Sportster radio in the garage while working and the audio compression on some of the music channels seems to be getting worse. I'm hoping it's the way the Sportster handles the audio because I don't remember it sounding anywhere close to that bad with the SC-C1 tuner fed through the PC. My tuner will be fed into the sound card optically but that just makes for noise free lousy compression if it doesn't get better...
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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