Engine Bay cleaned up:
....and Painted with DOM16:
I'm finally at it getting the truck ready for the road again.
I did manage to do a coolant flush on with the engine in the floor. A short boring video of it is here:
I gutted the front end:
Then brought it out through the front...nasty job, I'm not going to lie...
Now I need to clean up the engine bay, finish assembling the engine I bought then stuff it back in... more to follow
Engine Bay cleaned up:
....and Painted with DOM16:
So letís wrap up this engine stuff and get back to computers. I ended up treating the original engine to a fresh set of Ford Reman Cylinder Heads in a kit with HG's, new stand pipes and TTY bolts.
New Ford OE head gaskets:
Head set on the block:
And a ton of sweat later from torquing head boltsÖwhat an insane workout that was torquing them to spec, the goal is to stretch the bolts while torquing.
Resting back in itís home:
All hooked back up and running.
Front end completely reassembled:
Not a bad looking old truck for 9 years old and a sÖton of miles on it:
I picked up a couple of DEI window modules from Mitch when he posted them here for sale on this forum. I also found a third one from a guy locally.
These modules can be used stand alone to give you express up and down on 2 windows per module. I installed 2 modules for the four doors and I may add the third one later to cover the power sliding rear cab window.
I tied them to my alarm system so when I push a combo of buttons on the remote I can lower all 4 windows about 1" to let heat out in the summer or hold longer and they all power all the way down. Another combination powers the 4 windows all the way up.
Also when you get out and arm the truck, any windows all or partially down go up.
I connected it to the proximity sensor as well so if you walk by the truck too close and the windows are down , the alarm lets out 2 or 3 chirps and the windows go up without any user intervention. Should be worth a you tube video in the Walmart parking lot
I wired them up on the bench:
Most of the connections on this truck could be made right at the drivers side kick panel other than I had to access the one motor on the drivers door.
I then tucked the modules up behind the dash:
I ran a dedicated heavy gauge circuit from the battery to power these modules which are now powering the window motors instead of the factory spaghetti wiring and I can tell you the windows now go up and down twice as fast.
After looking at the price of aftermarket interior LED light bulbs, I decided to take my own homegrown approach like I did with the taillights and licence plate lights.
I bought a pack of clear LED assemblies (the same as the blue ones I showed earlier in the work log but in clear). You get like a dozen of them for 20 bucks.
So I trimmed a couple of them down and installed just one in each dome light housing:
And here is the end result...unbelievably bright compared to OEM incandescent:
I think i will add a couple under the hood for night time maintenance, topping up washer fluid on the side of the road etc.
I probably would have used these when I was adding the puddle lights to the bottom of the doors if I had known they were available at the time. They are all nicely sealed in epoxy so they should be weather proof.
Nice work! Pretty clever idea with the windows on proximity sensors, would love to see a video of them in action.
rray: thanks...and I'll see if I can come up with a video on it in the next day or so.
My BU-353 died while the truck was sitting for so long, I took it apart and abused it for a while digging out the battery then threw everything in the garbage. I kinda knew that would be it's fate before I started but that's just what guys do, am I right? We take s... apart regardless of the fact that we already know what the likely outcome is. We don't feel like we got the full use of the product life if it goes into the garage in one piece looking like it should still work. And believe me...this one didn't look like it should still work
I would like to thank SNO (I hope he reads this) for passing along his experience with the Sure demo board. I decided to go with this board since it was $50 which was actually cheaper than a new BU-353 here in Canada and figured with the number of trucks that SNO manages, he would be in the know on testing all of this stuff.
Other than it shipping on the "slow boat from China", there was no issues getting one from Ebay, I ordered it Dec 7 & it received it last Friday.
Here's the detail on the board:
Drivers were available from a link on the ebay listing were I bought it. They installed without issue.
I did lose a couple hours though trying to get it to work. When all else failed, I decided to try a different USB cable than the one that shipped with it. BINGO.
I tested it on the desk and immediately noticed the differences from the 353, this thing locked onto 11 of 13 satellites almost instantly and never let go of them and the antenna was just sitting in my office window on a super heavy overcast day.
So then I tuned my attention to a case for it. It looked about the same size as an old SC-C1 Sirius tuner I had laying around that didn't work. Thankfully I didn't "repair" the tuner the same was I fixed the BU-353....
I dissembled the tuner and compared board sizes...they were identical:
So I had to cut off a couple of the plastic standoffs in the case, nip a tiny bit of 2 of the corners off the GPS board to make it fit
It then dropped right in:
I has to modify the end panels on the case to accept the connections of the new board but it wasn't a whole lot different. I closed it up and gave it a shot of paint, it could probably use another coat to hide the rest of the Sirius logos. I just taped over the Serial port connection and painted right over it. If I ever needed it for some reason, I could just peel the tape off, the case is open enough to access it:
I'll do another post talking about how I configured it within my system.
So another big "Thanks" to SNO for this recommendation!!!!
2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
Gigabyte Z97 mITX Intel Mobo, 8GB RAM, Intel Core i5-4590S 3.0GHz Proc, 320 GB Hard Drive, Dual 12' VGA HDMI DVI touchscreen monitors,....
So now I have a reliable GPS signal to feed that amazing Front End, DriveLine. The GPS signal becomes so important for DL versus a basic install of other FEís due to the fact that it utilizes the signal for so many core functions. You can get there with plug ins and configuration on RR but I never seemed to be able to get everything working right. No fault of the FE, I'm sure it all works, I just wasn't smart enough to be able to configure it.
Drive Line needs the signal for:
Speedometer & trip functions
GPS info including GPS Trail
Dimmer (I believe has an option to use it)
and I'm sure I've missed some.
I also rely on Garmin for my maps/directions/arrival time etc. so I needed to split the GPS signal. I am reluctant to go to the "online solution" provided by DL for directions due to cel band width cost constraints (GPS running sometimes for 12-13 hours/day) and many of the areas I wind up in don't have reliable cel signal...but GPS signal is always with you.
I bought a copy of Franson GPSGate a while back to split the GPS signal and it seemed to work back then but I donít recall the circumstances of how or why it worked then but not now. All I know is now; I canít get Garmin to recognize a virtual com port created by GPSGate.
I did a little digging and found out this is a known issue by many that have tried to use GPSGATE & Garmin but Franson wonít knowledge it or fix it.
So with a little research, I found a work aroundÖ.a null modem emulator. It comes from SourceForge and can be found here: http://com0com.sourceforge.net/
Hereís how to use it (instructions courtesy of "pboom" who posted them on GPSgate forums
Install the program; the instructions make reference to configuring everything
via a command line, however there is a GUI configuration utility installed in
the program group. The only thing that may need changing is the COM port names.
Now set GPSGate to feed NEMA data to the higher number of the two ports at the
default baud rate of 4800. The baud rates and using the higher of the two ports
is what first worked for me I don't know that it is required for sure.
Run Garmin Mobile PC it should now find a GPS at the other Virtual Null modem
The data flow is something like this.
GPSGate->Virtual Null Modem Port 1 -> Virtual Null Modem Port 2 -> Garmin
The virtual COM ports created by com0com do not show up in device manager
however they do show up in Garmin Mobile PC. You can see them by;
Settings -> System -> Remote GPS -> Disable
So Garmin Mobile PC will work with Virtual COM ports just not the ones created by GPSGate.
Here's a shot of GPSgate & Com0Com configured on my PC:
Here's how Garmin sees the port:
So I now have Garmin nicely imbedded in DriveLine.
There is discussion that DL may support Co-Pilot natively in the future. If so, I would dump Garmin and be all over that but for the time being, since I already own and love Garmin, Iím good to go.
The way it is now, with the remote in my hand from quite a distance away, I have the ability to lower 1", lower all the way down ,or raise completely all 4 windows (and the power slider if I finish the job). All windows will also close themselves when I leave the truck and lock it via remote, or, if I set it to autolock in the Viper menu, they all go up after exiting and and the doors lock after "X" number of seconds determined in the menu.
Plus, if I choose to leave them down and run into a store for a second or pay for fuel, I can hit a lock button combo on the remote so they don't go up but the truck alarm arms then if someone goes near the truck, they go up automatically and of course my remote beeps or vibrates to tell me someone is near enough to the truck to trigger this.
I could also add a rain sensor so if I leave them down in my driveway, they go up when it rains.
I'm just not sure what the PC can do for me to improve on this other than "because we can". However this reason has sent us down the path of making something work many times!!
I suppose controlling via internet would be a reason but that's already available in the more current alarms, but honestly, I don't really see the point for me. I might be interested in remotely turning on the PC to activate a security cameras to check on the truck if it's parked in a bad spot but honestly, I think I'm grasping at straws to come up with a reason...I don't really think I have a need at this time.