Good to hear from you again.
So tell me, what have you done, or decided to do, about the console being too high?
I have been using my carputer for some time now and have enjoyed it so far. Garmin Mobile PC is much better than Destinator IMHO.
I have problems with the bluetooth not always initializing when the carputer resumes from hibernation. I have gone down the same path as you and shut it down instead. Since I have a SSD my carputer boots up Windows 7 and has Centrafuse running in around half a minute so I can live with that.
Take care, Berber
Berber I know this is off PhilG's topic but I had similar problems instead it was with my WiFi card.
I resorted to shutting down and restarting but I just could not let it stop nagging me that it was not working as it should.
It turns out that Windows 7 has a selective suspend setting for USB.
Just go to your advanced power setting and you can change the USB suspend settings so that the Bluetooth device does not completely loose power when the computer hibernates.
Once that is done, your Bluetooth device should resume from suspend or hibernation.
Just my 2 cents though
Thanks for the info on the selective suspend setting, someting I didn't know about so I it didn't even enter my head to try it.
I had a look on my desktop to see what you were talking about and there it was. Two settings, enabled or disabled, and it was enabled. So my guess is enabled is set by default so I would have to change it to disabled on my carputer. So next time I go out to the car I will give it a go.
Thanks again and sorry to PhilG for using his thread, hope you don't mind PhilG.
Berber: I'm really glad you didn't give up on the carpc and thats great that it's working so well for you. Regarding the console height, the 2" will come from the top section where the storage bucket is but I have no solid plan until I get into the garage and try a couple of things first.
With regard to the shutting down vs hibernating, I have added a second switch that will B+ to the acc circuit so if the truck is going to be parked for a couple of hours or less, I turn that switch on and backfeed the acc. circuit to keep it live. This solution has worked well for me mainly because when the truck leaves the driveway, it quite often will not get shut off for 12 hours anyways. If I stop for fuel , coffee, etc, I enable the pitstop feature on the remote start, take the keys, and turn on the alarm. Especially this time of year, the turbo is too hot to shut it off for 10min anyways if I am pulling a trailer.
Dluvr22: great input on the W7 USB suspend setting. The problem is you are just adding to my desire to upgrade to W7 :ohwell: My only concern is drivers for the HP laptop, I guess I need to investigate that on the HP site.
I think I can actually get to the garage to work today for a while, I just received the box of parts to add an aftermarket radio into the Camaro and lose the Bose headunit. I have a JVC KDAVX11 laying around so I think I will see if I can make that fit. I may also try to install the power inverter in the truck, I now have the correct switch to remotely turn if on and off.
Have a great weekend :happy:
Updating Sirius Tuner
My SC-C1 tuner died so I decided to replace it with the home version, the SC-H1.
This gives me L-R RCA outputs instead of a 3.5mm jack which I always find gets loose and noisy. It also gives me optical out which ultimately I would like to use.
So the tuner installed fine, I just had to replace the 12v supply on Mitch's translator box to a 5v supply directly to the tuner. That was the easy part.
I then opened Satamp and it connected and streamed the channels instantly.
The biggest issue right now is Centrafuse won't recognize this tuner so I guess I will post asking for help on the appropriate forum here and over at CF.
After further research, connecting it directly to the Alpine processor optically will be a challenge. I did connect it temporarily by disconnecting the PC optical in and there was a definite improvement in SQ over a 3.5mm jack going to the sound card, then through the PC and on to the processor. The problem is switching within the processor; it has to be done manually if more than one source is connected to it. That's not going to work.
So I think the final answer will be to replace the X-fi with something that has optical in and out.
Here is how it is setup right now:
I have also been dealing with really poor SQ in the last few weeks. All of a sudden the sound quality of my mp3 music went right to hell and I don't know why. I even formatted the PC this weekend and reinstalled everything. The Sat radio still sounds fine. I don't know if it's a sound card hardware issue, software issue or what. I will do some more testing tonight to try to trouble shoot it.
It basically sounds like the speakers are being over driven even at a low volume and when I look at the view meters on the Processor controller, they are indicating a very low level input similar to if the volume was turned down low on the PC. Maybe the sound card is on it's way out, who knows.
As an aside, I have not completely been sitting on my thumb this summer, I replaced my roll around compressor with this old beast. It runs great, doesn't leak, has clean oil in it and came with a new Magnetic starter switch (they aren't cheap). I added a dissident filter for painting (the yellow piece mounted on the wall) and a rapid air kit to give me several outlets around the garage.
So now I can paint without air supply issues. I just need time.
I think I have got to the root of my SQ problem. It appears the X-overs on the front speakers are toast so I finally decided to take the time to do an active front stage (which I had been putting off for some time).
I have spent the last couple of evenings running an additional set of wires out to the doors for the tweeters, then wiring up a harness in the console to house a small Pioneer amp that was kicking around to power them. The system sounds much better however it now needs to be tuned more than ever!
Here is the amp I used:
Here is were I located it for now:
A couple of notes on speakers in doors - Doors are not a great home for speakers, they are damp, there are moving parts in them, they get slammed shut jolting things. If you are deciding on a location for speakers and are not restricted to doors, choose elsewhere.
If you do have to use the doors and you are installing components with X-overs, take the time to run the extra wire inside the vehicle and mount them in a safe dry place. The sad part of my original install was I took the time to run new wire out to the doors and eliminate the factory spaghetti wiring yet never sent the second wire out with it.
I then proceeded to install the X-overs in the doors and zip tie them to a brace in the door. The problem was there is a telescoping arm (seen at the bottom of the below pic with a grommet around it) that intrudes into the door space as if collapses when the door is closed. The first time I closed the door, it nailed the plastic X-over case. I removed the X-over, opened it up and found the board had been cracked. I soldered together a couple of broken traces on the board and they worked fine for the next 4+ years.
Now the wire terminals are rusted and who knows what happened inside them but they are toast.
In the below pic, you will see how I added an extra piece of loom during the original install for the new speaker wire, I should have run the second wire at the same time. On my last 3 Super Duty's, the factory wiring was run old school through a similar large boot but in through a grommet, no problem to add wires to that.
By 2005, Ford had changed the grommet system for a connector right in the side of the cab so no wires could be added. My solution has worked perfect though; I have never had a wire or moisture issues from adding the additional loom. There was a factory grommet in the side of the cab that was unused (probably from the 2004 & older setup, the cab stamping has not changed since 1999) so I routed the wires through it.
I knocked off a couple more items on the list
>Installed Inverter with remote Switch
>Installed rear 12VDC power ports with switch
Here is the inverter installed under rear seat. Notice the crack in the seat skirt- this is the result of taking the lazy way out and using body filler for an application it's not designed for. We all seem to have to try it once and find out it does NOT replace fiberglass. It's for skim coats only!!
Here is the switch for inverter installed to the top right of the console.
Here is the drivers side power port added which is useful for rear passenger to charge devices etc. or for me to reach in and plug in a trouble light to use outside the truck.
Here is the passenger side port which will be very useful for me. My cooler can stay plugged into it without having to string a wire up to the front and have something plugged into the dash all the time (I hate that). Also both of these ports are switched by the extra switch I added to the switch panel (top left of the console in the second pic). So I don't have to unplug it anymore unless I am removing the cooler for a passenger.
This is the original fuse block I installed when the PC was added last year and it is really starting to show it's value. It was very easy just to run the power wire (the green one) up to it from the switch for the power ports, and plug it in then add 1 more fuse for that circuit. I did the same thing to power the small Pioneer amp added last week. So simple once the block is installed.
Eventually when I rewire everything on the final install, that block will be fed off of the distribution panel under the rear seat so basically everything I have added to the truck will all be powered from one additional line from the battery and I can remove any extra smaller guage cables that have been added along the way.
Thanks for looking!
Here's another small project i completed while waiting for the right time to gut the inside and finish the console.
I added puddle lights to the front doors. Yes I have stepped in rather deep puddles getting out of the truck several times so they are functional!
Thanks for looking!
:lol: Is that what they are called really! Looks good!
Originally Posted by PhilG