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Thread: Car PC install in my 02 Avalanche

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by redheadedrod View Post
    This is misleading.. The only rule about car audio is that there are no rules.
    Also depends lots on how the vehicle has been designed etc.

    MANY vehicles come with the Tweeters in the A pillar and the rest of the speakers low in the doors.
    My 2003 Avalanche comes this way and sounds alright just the way it is. For OEM BOSE speaker setup anyhow..

    Everything is a design compromise when you talk about vehicles. A car is NOT a great place for audio no matter what.

    When you start separating the speakers sharing the same signal your "sweet spot" gets smaller and smaller. There are time alignment pieces that can make the speakers sound better but MOST people won't be able to tell the difference sound quality wise between the tweeters in the floor and the a pillars. Nor will they care about the sweet spot unless you get real wacky.

    However putting the Tweeters as high up as possible will bring your "sound stage" up higher. The idea is that the music is generally recorded as if it were on a stage in front of you like at a concert and when you are in your truck it should sound the same way.

    Chances are if you put your tweeters in your A pillar you will find it maybe sounds a little louder and your music will be a little higher up. There is much more tweaking you can do because ultimately you want the sound to be coming like they were standing on your hood.

    I do agree with the powder coating though.. I am looking to powder coat mine black because I have a black truck.

    To get some better ideas maybe you should check out the avalanche forums and ask there where people are putting speakers.

    I most likely will be boring and put my Diamond Audio HEX speakers in the factory locations. I have 6" sub woofers I will install in the console to replace my dual voice coil OEM sub woofer to bring the bass up front and play my 10" subs from the mid gate area where the main stereo install will reside.

    I am looking to install my PC in the center console. I am not sold on putting the boxes out in the open. I am hoping to make my system completely stealth with the speakers and amplifiers hidden in the mid gate.

    Looks good though!

    Rodney
    Thanks Rodney
    Too bad I have already cut holes in my door panels for the tweeters so I cannot change it unless I got new door panels.
    Not worth the extra cash for door panels.
    Besides I must say I like the sound stage where it is.
    I don't know if it would be better next to the side mirrors and I am not going to try as it will only make me dissatisfied and end up buying new panels as it is.
    Thanks for the clarification anyway.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilG View Post
    Down firing subs usually sound great in trucks.....but you have to be willing to dedicate the space required. If the sub would not even fit the box properly then I guarantee you there was not enough air space inside the box for the sub to work correctly. If the boxes were breaking in shipping, that's a sign the material used to construct the walls of the box were likely weak and would have flexed & likely leaked under the pressure of the sub again destroying sound.

    My suggestion is if you want "decent Bass" with minimal intrusion in the cab, select a quality 8" sub and make or have made for you, a quality box that matches the specs of the sub you have chosen. If you want "Heavy Bass", select a 10" sub but remember the box will be bigger. If you want to rattle mirrors and annoy the guy next to you, do a couple of 10", a 12" or even 15" but be prepared to sacrifice a lot of real estate inside the truck.

    Down or up firing, I doubt you will get enough space under that seat for the box to match the sub and leave space in front for the sub to work, but I'm just looking at a pic, I could be wrong.
    Thanks Phil.
    The box was actually intended for 2 10" subwoofers. My issue was that either my subwoofers were slightly over-sized or the box was cut a bit too small.
    I remedied that by filing within the hole to get it just the right size. In my opinion that was better than having it too large. As far as the space goes, the subwoofers are shallow mount subwoofers and Pioneer stated the ideal sealed enclosure size is 0.4 cu. ft. The recommended size is 0.35-0.7 cu.ft. This box is advertised as having a sealed volume of 0.55 cu.ft per subwoofer so it is good enough for the subwoofers.
    One of my main issues issues is the crack in the box which I have sealed with some glue but it still bothers me because I know it is there and I will never be certain the the crack is still not affecting the sound.

    Also to get better sounds from the subwoofers, I am going to unscrew the rear seat and put some washers under it to raise it up just a bit more.
    In addition I will be putting some mounts on the bottom of the box to lift the base off the carpet and leave some space to allow the subwoofer room to push the air and create sound.
    I will be working on that bit by bit when I get off work and I hope by saturday to have completed and test the sound quality.
    I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed.
    Eventually if it works as expected, I will purchase another box locally and do the same thing to remedy my doubts about the crack.

    I definitely want to stick with the down firing design as I tend to agree that it will give me cleaner sound in a sealed enclosure.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  3. #53
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    Ok.
    Update on my audio woes.
    I managed to get the largest sized hex nut I cound find at my local home depot.
    Also added a washer below and above the nut before screwing the seat on top of it all.
    I now have a slightly higer seating position for the back seat passengers and better leg room for taller people as well.
    Best of all is the fact that the subwoofer enclosure is sandwiched betweeen the seat bottom and the frame of the seat where it mounts to the floor.
    As a result, the enclosure is now suspended above the floor pan and I now have about 1 inch of clearence between the bottom of the enclosure and the carpet on the floor.
    I can now slide by hand underneath the subwoofer so there is now space to move air around.
    I must say the results are great even though they would never sound like subwoofers in the midgate or the 12 inch Kicker Solo Baric I have in the bed for those tailgating days.
    All in all I am much happier with how it sounds.
    Last edited by Dluvr22; 09-27-2012 at 05:48 PM.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  4. #54
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    Lately I have been working on front, rear and my side view cameras and since I do not want to keep on going off topic here as I have done in the past, I started a seperate thread for that.
    More info can be found here.

    http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/caf...,135029.0.html
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  5. #55
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    Great.
    These projects take a lot of cash and a failed component is a pain to deal with.'
    My ODB II reader I've been using via a connection to my USB port just died on me.
    Turns out that the USB connector in the unit just broke - don't ask me how.
    Anyway I purchased a new unit, this time with both bluetooth and USB so I have both options available.
    I do worry about lag in the data representation via bluetooth as this thing will be reading vehicle RPM, Speed etc in real time on the LCD screen.
    Also I do like the fact that it has bluetooth as well because That means I can connect it to my old iphone 4 or an Ipad and used that as a secondary display for real time vehicle data even while using the PC for something else.
    I should get that before this weekend and I hope to test it out as soon as possible

    Update 10/13/2012:
    I received the new OBDII unit in the mail.
    I just spent a whole lot of time trying different options.
    Device connects to PC just fine using USB or Bluetooth.
    Iphone will not recognize bluetooth when I try to locate bluetooth devices.
    Windows phone 7 (Samsung Focus) will recognize device but cannot connect. - No good OBDII app available for Windows Phone 7 anyway

    Iphone has an app that makes it an OBDII reader but since it cannot locate the device, it is useless.
    Bluetooth on the computer is not 100% reliable.
    When device disconnects after PC suts off or hibernates, It does not always reconnect hence I have to manually connect the bluetooth to the computer before using my pc to read inputs while driving.

    Verdict: Don't spend the extra 50 bucks or so to get bluetooth added to you USB OBDII reader unless you have android or something else in the car and want to take the risk and hope it works when you receive the reader

    Only get bluetooth if you will only use the reader occasionally with your vehicle and don't want to run a usb cable to the computer.


    Update 10/17/2012:
    I called the guys I purchased this unit from and explained the situation.

    They confirmed my findings.
    However they did add that the bluetooth version will work with android devices but not with an IOS device.
    I want to clear the perception here.
    The bluetooth is still good for android so it is not completely useless as I previously stated however I now have to shell out a few extra dollars for the wifi version which the seller confirms works with the IOS devices.

    My thoughts are if it is really necessary since I do have the PC in the car with USB and the USB only version is half the price.
    Also to consider is the fact that the wifi version will only support 1 device at a time so I cannot have both the PC and the iphone working simultaneously. It will also not let me connect the PC via USB and use the iphone via wifi either.
    If USB is enabled, wifi is disabled and verse versa.

    First thoughts are to just go with USB only but I am thinking that in the future I may want to use the wifi so it is handy to have it available
    Last edited by Dluvr22; 10-17-2012 at 04:42 AM.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  6. #56
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    Next on my agenda hopefully is to install another 12 inch screen .
    This time I want it to go in the dash so that it looks stock.
    My major obstacles will be moving the A/C controls to a new location. I have yet to determine and to get a factory finished look for that monitor in the vehicle's dash bezel.
    I have no fiberglass skills and am hoping that with a dremel and some ingenuity, I can fab something up. If not I guess I'll have to start looking for the nearest guy on this forum who can do the fiberglass work for a minimal fee ( six pack of beer) just kidding.........
    I will be willing to pay a reasonable fee if the price is right.
    Let me just get my hands on that sweet monitor.
    Last edited by Dluvr22; 11-25-2012 at 11:23 PM.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  7. #57
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    I've been away for a while working tirelessly to get the extra cash to purchase the screen and stuff I need to get my dash redone.
    I have purchased an open frame 12.1 inch touchscreen monitor to go in the dash.
    I also purchased another dash bezel off eBay so that I do not screw with the one already in the dash and also not have to take out my original for the duration of time it takes to get the screen grafted into the new bezel.

    After receiving the new monitor my quest is to find a premade bezel for the monitor so I don't have to fabricate one and mess with the monitor itself in my endeavors.

    I have never done any fiberglass work or any fabrication in my life so I am weary of working on this but who knows.

    First things first, I need to relocate the A/C controls or I'll never get the screen in the dash.

    This weekend I decided to try my hand at this whole fabricating thing. My logic is, I'll experiment with a small piece ( the A/C controls). If I screw this up, I'll just have to buy a new A/C control off eBay or something and the overhead console where I am going to try relocating it.


    I have been through a lot of the fabrication threads in here and I must say turbocad's thread inspires me so I give it a shot.

    Here are some pics of what I have done so far and I must say I am impressed for a first timer.
    Last edited by Dluvr22; 11-25-2012 at 11:21 PM.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

  8. #58
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    if you jailbreak your iphone you can use the bluetooth for obdii

  9. #59
    Constant Bitrate eugenweij's Avatar
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    Very nice project, looks very good and inspires me to think about some of your mods
    View my worklog here

  10. #60
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    Here are the pics I referred to in my previous post.



    Image of what the overhead console originally looked like before I started working on it.
    This is actually a generic image not the actual image of my console but I want you to get the idea of what I started with.



    Here is the original A/C controls before I started cutting away pieces of it.




    Here is the very beginning of the project.
    What I did not take a pic of was me cutting in to the original overhead console
    I covered the A/C control faceplate with foil so it does not get stuck in to the mold.



    After initial sanding with 40 grit sandpaper.
    It is here I realized that I needed a frame around the controls or I'd be seeing gaps between the A/C controls and the console.



    Frame added around the A/C controls and more sanding with 180 grit sandpaper



    Butchered my A/C controls to make it fit with the contour of the console.
    the right angled edges in a otherwise curved console did not sit well with me.



    This is where the console should be after all is said and done.



    A lot of wires extended........ 32 in all.

    Now just to do more sanding then painting and even more sanding and painting.
    Unfortunately I am trying to match the paint to the original pieces however it is currently on back order so I am waiting before taking more pics
    Last edited by Dluvr22; 12-03-2012 at 04:34 PM.
    2002 Chevrolet Avalanche
    Zotac NForce 610i ITX, 2GB RAM, 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium Dual Core CPU, 320 GB Hard Drive, 12' VGA touchscreen monitor, 3D mouse
    My Worklog : http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...avalanche.html

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