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Thread: 2007 Honda Fit In-Dash - eeePC

  1. #1
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    2007 Honda Fit In-Dash - eeePC

    Like everyone else on this forum, I have started to gather some parts to put together a carpc. So far I have the following parts and I will update the post as I receive additional hardware:



    Parts List:
    - Asus eeePC 701 4G with TinyXP rev.09 and 2GB RAM (Already had)
    - Metra Honda Fit Double DIN converter - $50 (from Car Stereo Company)
    - Metra wiring harness for radio installation - $20 (from Car Stereo Company)

    - Ultra Mini Bluetooth 2.1+EDR USB 2.0 Dongle - $5
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.37665

    - 7" USB Plug-n-Play Touch Screen Digitizer for Asus Eee PC 701 - $35
    http://www2.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16124

    - G.Mouse Mini USB SiRF Star-III 20-Channel GPS Receiver - $35
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19498

    - Exonic EXA600 - $150 (Found a store demo model at The Car Stereo Company on El Camino, Mountain View, CA)(Cheaper on Amazon link below)
    http://www.amazon.com/EXONIC-EXA600-.../dp/B003O7B8A2

    - Amp installation kit - $30 (Local Fry's)
    http://www.frys.com/product/4574027?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

    - 2x RCA splitters - $5 each (Fry's)
    - Heat shrink tubing - $2 (Fry's again)
    http://www.frys.com/product/3221461?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

    I stopped by the Halted Supply Company in Sunnyvale to pick up some components for the controller board this weekend;

    - 5v relays for charger control
    - 12v relays for inputs
    - Assorted resistors and capacitors
    - Reset switch
    - Tri color led

    Total was about $20

    Total Cost so far:
    ~$220 - Car Stereo Company
    ~$75 - Deal Exteme
    ~$45 - Frys
    ~$20 - Halted Supply Company
    --------------------------------
    - $340

    Future items:
    - USB OBD-II reader
    - mp3car BoomzBox HD radio (Maybe)
    - Centrafuse frontend
    - eeePC car charger

  2. #2
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    Started working on the electronics portion for this build during the Thanksgiving holidays....

    I will add a schematic of how everything is wired after I finish this up hopefully today or tomorrow

    Controller:

    The controller will be based of a NetMedia BX24 microcontroller that I had from many years ago. It is a relatively small board at around 1" x 2" and it should be able to handle all the sutff I need it to.

    Desired Functions:

    1. PC power control
    2. Amp power control
    3. Battery voltage detection
    4. Serial communication with PC to show data + send commands
    5. USB Hub power control
    6. Speed output from PCM hookup from ECU

    Charger - PC

    The eeePC requires 9.5v at 2-3 amps to charge. Unfortunately, there is no readily available chip that provides 9.5v so I decided to use an LT1083 Adjustable Regulator.


    USB Hub Power

    I was planning on adding a powered hub to the project as the eeePC only has three USB ports which seems a bit insufficient to me. The hub needs 5v at around 2-3 amps. I decided against using a linear voltage regulator as it releases all the extra energy as heat and therefore is very inefficient. I found a LT1529 after a quick search on Google and decided to use it as I had to order the other chip from Linear Technology as well.

  3. #3
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    Amp Installation

    This weekend I finally decided to go ahead and install the amp as I ripped out the old headunit a while ago and have been living without tunes for nearly 2 months now. Don't have many pics yet but I'll see if I can add some later.

    Difficulty: Easy - Medium
    Time taken: 3hrs for installation
    Tools Needed:

    - Soldering Iron
    - Solder
    - Heat gun (for heat shrink tubing)
    - Crimping tool
    - Assorted screwdrivers and wrenches

    *Note: Will try to add pictures soon

    1. Remove existing head unit (Google has some pretty good guides)
    2. Remove glovebox by taking the two screws out underneath
    3. Remove plastic cover under glovebox by popping off two clips
    4. Open hood


    5. Locate grommet in firewall on passenger side (It's the gray thing in the background that's kinda fuzzy)


    6. Stab hole with screwdriver from under hood *Take care not to damage the existing cables*
    7. Push red power cable through the hole (in the picture below, I already added the wire protector)


    8. Pull power cable from inside about 3-4 ft
    9. Use wire protector from amp installation kit and wrap the cable near the engine.
    10. Use zip ties to tie it to existing wiring (I tried to hide it away so it won't be rained on)



    11. Strip end of power cable
    12. Cut fuse loop from amp installation kit about halfway
    13. Use butt splice to connect the red power wire to one end of the fuse kit
    14. Use a crimping tool to crimp an o-ring/loop connector with the smaller hole on the other end of the fuse kit
    15. Make sure the fuse is removed from the holder
    16. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
    17. Connect the fuse kit to the positive terminal
    18. Crimp other loop connector on the black ground wire
    19. Screw it to the bolt near the airbag
    20. Strip all the wires on the amp harness and Metra harness
    21. Use solder or butt splices to join the following pairs:

    I couldn't find any online documentation and the only actual pinout diagram I had has disappeared. I made a diagram to show what pins I connected because the amp harness used black wires a few times.



    Metra (to Car) Amp Harness
    -------------------------------------
    Black - N/A
    Yellow - N/A
    Purple/Black - 1
    Purple - 5 (Orange)
    Gray/Black - 3
    Gray - 7 (Green)
    Red - Used for remote turn-on for amp (Connected to long blue wire from amp installation kit)
    White/Black - 8
    White - 4 (White)
    Green/Black - 6
    Green - 2 (Gray)
    Orange - N/A



    22. Connect power and ground to the amp
    23. Connect remote power on amp the the accessory wire on harness (red wire on Metra harness)
    24. Connect amp harness to amp
    25. Turn gain on amp all the way down (turn counter-clockwise) or risk blowing out your speakers!
    26. Connect Metra harness to car
    27. Insert fuse into holder near battery
    28. Check amp for solid red light indicating power
    29. Hook up an input source to the amp with volume turned down
    30. Turn key to accessory -> red light on amp should turn to green
    31. Play music and slowly increase volume
    32. Adjust gain as needed

  4. #4
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    Last weekend, I got the display and touchscreen mounted in the double dinn converter. It seems to be pretty strong but the bezel looks pretty bad. I am planning on milling a new one so that it fits perfectly and then attempt to color match it to the dash.

    Difficulty: Easy-Medium (just be careful not to break anything)
    Time required: 5-6hrs
    Tools needed:

    - HOT GLUE (I used a s***load of this stuff to hold it together)
    - Saw
    - Sheet of plastic (used to mount the LCD inverter board and touchscreen controller)
    - Patience (this stuff takes time)

    Here is a short overview of what I did:

    1. Cut two pieces of plastic that fit on back of double dinn converter
    2. Cut holes for cables through one of the pieces of plastic
    3. Hot glue touchscreen and LCD together
    4. Break clips of second bezel thing
    5. Cut grooves in converter for cables+clips
    6. Glue LCD in place
    7. Glue LCD inverter board and touchscreen controller to plastic
    8. Test it out


    I don't really know how to write instructions for this bit so I think pictures will be the most helpful. If you have any questions please feel free to ask

    Here is the first piece of plastic hot glued to the double dinn plate. The touchscreen controller is eventually mounted on it.


    Here is the second piece of plastic that goes on the other half of the plate


    I broke of the clips from a another piece of the converter kit and glued them onto the frame. Basically they are used to hold the LCD in place.


    I added a tiny blob of hot glue that holds the touchscreen and LCD together

    Here is a pic with the LCD+touchscreen combo in place


    Pics of back of LCD once everything is glued on





    Running Centrafuse 3.0


    Here is a pic with all of the stuff installed and mounted in the car


    So far I think the project is going well. I am not liking the bezel all that much and really want to make a new one but probably only after I get the rest of the project finished

  5. #5
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