i wouldn't consider this spoon feeding so much as swapping ideas :)
i found this electrical manual for a 95 online(couldn't find a 97 manual, if you have a haynes manual, it might be listed there).
on page #58, it shows that there is the transmission range switch with a yellow from the ign circuit and purple wire going out to the starter circuit.
that purple wire should be the wire that you need to tie into, but it is hard to know either where that wire is, or how to connect it... it seems that line will only get power of any sort when you go to start the truck..
another diagram-- page 56, the shift interlock circuit.
it appears that this circuit goes to +12v whenever you press the brake to shift out of park/neutral.. according to the diagram, i think you would need to tie into the wire on the trans-- it would be the light green wire, between 'b' and 'c'. you will probably need to add a relay to this line with a diode just to be safe, but you should be able to use the output of the relay to connect to the park safety switch
Thanks for the diagram soundman. Makes it easier knowing what wires are for what and where the switch is actually located. I'll also call the Chevy dealership tomorrow that did some electrical work on the Caddy for me to make sure it's the corrent wire. If it is, I'll jack the car up, drill a small hole through the hump over the transmission, drop the wire straight down and tap it with a butt-splice. As always, I'll make sure to post pics to help others with their installs too. For the 100w speaker, I'll be removing the ground effects from the bottom of the front bumper so I can drill and tap the C channel to mount the speaker. Just wish it was a solid cross member like the Caddy has, but should still be pretty easy.
While the whole install is taking place, I'm going to continue driving the Caddy. Got the metal cut tonight using a piece I cut out of a desktop side panel for a friend that had me install a piece of custom etched plexi in it with the Detroit Lions logo and a couple blue LEDs.
Already picked the perfect spot to mount the pc and amp in teh back. I'll be attaching them to the panels that fold down when the reat seats are folded. Once that's done, I'll be building a custom enclosure to protect them and the wiring and adding 4 120mm fans for additional cooling. Hope this install goes better than the Caddy.
Stay tuned for updates and pics.
after looking at those diagrams again, you might be able to tap into that light green wire at the brake pedal switch-- at least according to that one schematic..
Hey soundman, I read a little further down below the diagram and found this for the Park-Kill switch:
GRAY - PARK KILL- This feature automatically deactivates siren tones when the vehicle is shifted into PARK. Siren tones will be disabled until the vehicle is shifted out of PARK. This circuit is activated by a negative signal. Connect this input to a circuit that is GROUNDED (Earth) when the vehicle is shifted into PARK. It is the installer's responsibility to determine an appropriate location in the vehicle circuitry to connect this wire.
Right now I don't know of anything in the vehicle that turns off when the vehicle is shifted into park.
and that would be what the relay is for. actually, the way that i talked about doing it, it would disable the siren in either park or neutral.
the other way would be to crack open the gearshift sensor(no idea how big this sensor is though), place a diode so that the park signal can only go towards the trans. then you can connect a wire before this diode, and connect to the siren, so that the siren will only activate when your in park..
at this point though, there is a higher chance that you could mess up the gearshift sensor, and that might not allow the truck to start... the risk was there before, but was less because you were just connecting to the existing wires...
i am starting to think that it would be easier to not connect this wire at all, and just remember to turn the siren off when you put it in park...
I spoke with the master mechanic at the dealership today. He recommended tapping the light green wire after the safety switch using a butt splice. Think I'll follow his recommendation. He said that's all they would do too. Cost for me to install: $0. Cost for them to install: $275.
Decided not to connect the safety switch. Will just use the manual shutoff if I leave the vehicle running. Since it is connected to the ignition already, when the vehicle is turned off it will shut off.
Sorry everyone for not getting anything posted up today for the install. Worked 10 hours after only 2 hours of sleep. Posting this after sleeping for 5 hours. Back to sleep now and hopefully a few pics tomorrow as I have the backplate cut out and ready to screw in using the original screws from the radio. Not the most purdy lookin but it'll be hidden so I don't care.
Planned completion date: September 27. That includes the light bar, siren, and PC. Final part, BoomzBox HD Radio, will be orderd September 10. Tight schedule + little sleep = high probability that something will definately go horribly wrong.
Previous owner replaced all speakers in the vehicle. The 2 mounted in the dash had the wires cut and he ran a heavy 8 gauge wire for them. Those have both been removed. I'll be using just the 4 mounted in the doors for audio. Sounds just fine without the dash as they weren't connected to the radio before I pulled it after a sound test. Maybe I'll consider adding something in the mount holes in the dash. Ideas are welcome.
Well, did some more work today. I got the back mount for the monitor cut, drilled, and bent (first pic).
The second pic shows where the monitor will mount. The front of the black headrest mount will sit flush on the left and bottom as you can see. There will be 6 screws holding it to the plate with custom cut standoffs to fit between the mount and plate.
After the mount is attached to the plate, there will be custom cut acrylic to seal the gap up top. The right side will be filled by the slim slot-load DVD/CD drive with modified case. Instead of leaving an open gap around everything between the dash and plate, there will be a filler cut and attached once everything else is finished.
In case anyone is wondering, the plate is part of a panel off an old computer case. Always best to reuse old parts.
Well, installed the red emergency light. Easiest part is over.
Magnetic mount + cigarette plug = EASY.
Siren command box will be adapted to be installed tomorrow along with the headrest mount for the monitor. Slotload drive and BoomzBox HD are due to be ordered within the next 2 weeks. Cables will be run from the dash to the back of the rear seat using a cord hider that's typically used for floors.
All parts from the Cadillac install will be reused including the power distribution box that was built.
Estimated completion time: 2 weeks due to work and other obligations.
Siren speaker and control box were installed today. Tomorrow the monitor will be installed along with the pc. All wiring will be done last as all runs have to be made to size to fit the length of the runs.
Photos will be taken tomorrow and posted right away.
Siren speaker installed and wires. Surprisingly the grill came out very easily. Only 6 screws holding the plastic grill in place. 4 across the top and 1 above and below the bowtie.
Next step, connect it to the command box inside the vehicle and get the power distribution box connected inside the steering column for everything to connect to.
The BoomzBox HD will be connected to the power wires that would normally connect to the radio.
Included are the pictures of the front with the siren speaker installed both with and without the grill.