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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

  1. #431
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Well the hijack wanted that new alt I guess. I started smelling electrical. I thought maybe it was my fuse box since it hadn't been used in so long. Well I went to work and the car wouldn't start. This time the smell was bad. Opened the hood and the fuse holder from the alt to battery is melted, and the line from fuse holder to battery is completely black. So now the car isn't drivable until I buy that alt and two batteries now. This install is trying my patience. I don't understand why the fuse didn't trip. Would my setup trying to draw more electrical then it can provide, cause that? could it be a faulty ground. Uggghhhhh, so many things running through my brain.
    Last edited by HiJackZX1; 01-16-2012 at 09:22 AM.
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  2. #432
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    Why do you have a fuse between the alternator and battery?

  3. #433
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Thats how the car came. It came with a fusible link. When I upgraded the big 3, I had to use a fuse holder. I am ordering my new alt from mechman, the make HO Alts. So that if the alts regulator goes, the fuse saves the electrical. At least in theory, because it ain't do $h!+ for me, instead the fuse holder melted. I think I had the wrong fuse in.
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  4. #434
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    Oh ok, I would've thought that the fuse would've blew instead of melt. What size fuse did you have in it?

  5. #435
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    You really need to put an ampere meter in series with the main 12v feed to the PC-Audio system. Unless you were using a “very” low rated fuse “holder” then that should not happen.

    A fuse won’t blow if there is enough resistance in the wiring or connections to allow the excessive current draw to be converted into heat/fire!

    The only thing drawing any real power would be the amps and only if turned up loud. The two PC systems should NOT be able to blow an Alternator to battery fuse. I’d be checking the wiring going to the rear of the vehicle as that may be starting to fail unless that earlier electrical smell was in fact the fuse holder burning.

    Still need to find the cause of the flat battery, unless the PC was in sleep mode and drawing over 400mA and the battery is weak then it should have not have gone flat over night.
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  6. #436
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by that_kid View Post
    Oh ok, I would've thought that the fuse would've blew instead of melt. What size fuse did you have in it?
    I think I had to high of a fuse in it.
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  7. #437
    Maximum Bitrate kegobeer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    I think I had to high of a fuse in it.
    That would do it. If the fuse handles more current than the wire, the wire will melt.
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  8. #438
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickz View Post
    You really need to put an ampere meter in series with the main 12v feed to the PC-Audio system. Unless you were using a “very” low rated fuse “holder” then that should not happen.

    A fuse won’t blow if there is enough resistance in the wiring or connections to allow the excessive current draw to be converted into heat/fire!

    The only thing drawing any real power would be the amps and only if turned up loud. The two PC systems should NOT be able to blow an Alternator to battery fuse. I’d be checking the wiring going to the rear of the vehicle as that may be starting to fail unless that earlier electrical smell was in fact the fuse holder burning.

    Still need to find the cause of the flat battery, unless the PC was in sleep mode and drawing over 400mA and the battery is weak then it should have not have gone flat over night.
    I dont think the fuse holder was a good one. The wire only burned because the fuse holder was connected to it. I think the issue is with way my car cranks. Currently when I turn my key the high output amp turns on and I think its forcing a huge strain on the car pc. Maybe I should have the CAR PC control the relay? Also going to put a switch to override the CAR PC in case I decide not to run it, but still need to charge the battery. Or maybe should I do something different? Any suggestions.

    It was the fuse holder burning. The wire from the front of the car to the rear is new and I ran it through the cabin. Its also all fused. I simply think in this case it was the cranking. I did try to run the car with no engine. I think that caused the flat battery. Then once I tried to crank it with such a low wattage, the alternator simply couldnt keep up. Does that sound logical?

    The amp I decided to go with a alt from Mechman.com. They are cheaper then the over rated dc power alts. Yet they spit out about the same power. The DC power alt is $629.00 though, while Mechman is $449.00. It spits 135 amps at idle and 270 at 1200 rpm. THat should be enough for me right?
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  9. #439
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kegobeer View Post
    That would do it. If the fuse handles more current than the wire, the wire will melt.
    Its a zero gauge wire, so it handles the current. It the fuse holder that couldnt and it took the wire with it.
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  10. #440
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    The Alternator would not be doing much at the initial instant of engine cranking. Once the engine fires then the Alternator produces power.

    The alternator would have something like a 100A fuse to the battery.

    The Starter would normally go straight to the Battery – no fuse. It’s only the starter solenoid that is on the other side of a fuse.

    It does not matter how big the amplifier is, the only current drawn with no audio input is idle or bias current which would be low.

    Added:

    I should have added - that 100A fuse should likely be a fusible link with screw terminals to reduce connection loss. I guess in your case, once the vehicle starts, it’s the high charge current into the main battery (as its low on charge) combined with the PC system current that’s causing that lossy Fuse holder/connection to fail and heat/burn the cable at the connection points. Which I think is what you were saying.

    It’s a good idea to be able to kill the PC and allow full voltage to charge the AUX battery on short trips, especially if the AUX battery is in the rear along with the equipment and shares the feed cable, although with Gauge 0 I don't think you would have a problem as long as the fuse holders and connections/relays were graded to match.


    I haven’t had to use mine yet as the system now charge’s the AUX battery really well, even with short trips and over a week of not using the vehicle.
    Last edited by Mickz; 01-16-2012 at 08:01 PM.
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