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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

  1. #441
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Well the one I had was a 175amp fuse. So I guess way to powerful. As for the starter, it is connected directly to the battery.

    So do you think the way I have it is correct? Basically when I turn my key, the starter starts, but the relay from the AUX is added to the mix. So now both are charging. No I can also turn and keep the PC off via switches, but if I turn off the key, the relay will still turn off and vis versa.

    So I am going to have to buy a new fuse holder. Do you recommend a circuit breaker from the alt to the battery?
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  2. #442
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    So if the amp puts out 270 amps. What fuse should I buy or circuit breaker?
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  3. #443
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    I would check the Manual for the correct fuse as 100A is nominal for a Passenger vehicle, 4x4 or off road may be higher to allow for extra batteries, lights and equipment not normally found in a car.

    I would have thought that even with both batteries down in charge that the total current would not exceed the alternator but as I haven’t measured how much a couple BIG batteries may draw on HI charge I can’t say.

    Personally unless it’s a really high quality breaker designed for this purpose in a 12v system, I would stick with a screw in fusible link. You really should not be blowing that fuse unless the battery or alternator shorts or are accidently shorted to ground.
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  4. #444
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    So if the amp puts out 270 amps. What fuse should I buy or circuit breaker?
    270A would be around 3.5KW so I assume its 270 watts (continuous). I would try a 30A fuse but it does depend on the efficiency of the unit and just how loud you really drive it and the type of music. I tend to use lower rated fuses that recommended as my ears bleed before I ever reach the amp limit, that is unless you are driving a low efficiency SUB then manufacture recommended fuse would be best as you most likely will reach the limit – depending on EQ settings.
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  5. #445
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Just been thinking about that alternator fuse, I would think it should be just below the rating of the alternator. IE an 110A alternator would likely have a 100A fuse.

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    Last edited by Mickz; 01-16-2012 at 11:19 PM.
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  6. #446
    Constant Bitrate BADMOPAR's Avatar
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    There is one more option regards alternators. Try to find an add-on bracket for second alternator, or try to design your own. Then you can use two stock alternators which is cheaper and easier to service or replace. And remember you must always use an adequate wire. Here is nice table of how to calculate wiring and don't forget use the Voltage Drop Calculator. This is very important too.
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  7. #447
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Update. I am getting the 270a alternator. Mechman said for the install, I would need a 300a fuse. You can not use a circuit breaker. He recommended a battery that can handle the whole system, but I dont think he understands that I need a second to keep the car pc in hybrid sleep. How should I calculate this. Here is my setup.

    2 SSL amps 400watts each. 800 watts together. / fuse in units 15amp each
    1 Motorcycle amp. 175 watts. / no clue
    1 Low profile amps. 1500 watts. / 2 25 amp fuse
    Opus 320. 320 watts. / no clue
    Inverter. 600 watts. / no clue
    Lets say accessories about 300 watts.

    You think two 950 amp batteries is enough. One for the front, one for the rear for hybrid sleep?
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  8. #448
    Maximum Bitrate jmullan99's Avatar
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    Well, it really depends on what is being kept alive during hybrid sleep. Assuming just the inverter and pc, then one battery should keep them alive for a while. Depending on inverter, they can have a bad efficiency. I can't guess how much it will draw on your battery while it's keeping the PC powersupply in sleep mode.

    950 amp battery I am guessing is CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). There is no real formula for calculating amp hours (ah). But I'm going to hazzard a guess that it's not more than 100AH (probably less). If your setup will draw 5 amps during sleep, then you will get about 20 hours.

    If you can find the real AH rating of the battery, just divide by the number of amps your system will draw will in sleep.

    For my unprofessional (but somewhat experienced) guess.

    2 SSL amps @ 15 amps each = 30 (real life only if pushed over max)
    Motorcycle amp = 10 (rough guess)
    2 low profile @ 25 each = 50 (again, see above)
    Opus 320W probably 30 (at 12V side of inverter)
    Accessories lets just estimate again at 15 on the high side.

    That makes it 135 amps worst case scenario. In practice it should be way less than that.

    I would guess that your inverter would draw maybe 3 amps or less with the computer in sleep mode. Some lost to the inverter itself, some to the Opus to keep the computer memory alive and some USB items will draw a small amount of power while computer is in sleep mode. That is bigger question here as I know your system has tons of accessories.

    All other things should be off (audio amps).

    Are you going to use an isolator for your two batteries (I don't remember). If so, you may save yourself a bit by getting a hybrid (marine/starting) battery for the back. They have the best properties of both a engine starting battery and a deep cycle. And assuming your system will not spend more than 24 hours in sleep mode, should probably work well for you. And using a battery isolator would keep it from draining your front battery. And the inverter will shut down anyway and change your hybrid sleep mode from sleep to hibernate anyway.

    Okay, I think I rambled there a bit. But that's my input
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  9. #449
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmullan99 View Post
    Well, it really depends on what is being kept alive during hybrid sleep. Assuming just the inverter and pc, then one battery should keep them alive for a while. Depending on inverter, they can have a bad efficiency. I can't guess how much it will draw on your battery while it's keeping the PC powersupply in sleep mode.

    950 amp battery I am guessing is CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). There is no real formula for calculating amp hours (ah). But I'm going to hazzard a guess that it's not more than 100AH (probably less). If your setup will draw 5 amps during sleep, then you will get about 20 hours.

    If you can find the real AH rating of the battery, just divide by the number of amps your system will draw will in sleep.

    For my unprofessional (but somewhat experienced) guess.

    2 SSL amps @ 15 amps each = 30 (real life only if pushed over max)
    Motorcycle amp = 10 (rough guess)
    2 low profile @ 25 each = 50 (again, see above)
    Opus 320W probably 30 (at 12V side of inverter)
    Accessories lets just estimate again at 15 on the high side.

    That makes it 135 amps worst case scenario. In practice it should be way less than that.

    I would guess that your inverter would draw maybe 3 amps or less with the computer in sleep mode. Some lost to the inverter itself, some to the Opus to keep the computer memory alive and some USB items will draw a small amount of power while computer is in sleep mode. That is bigger question here as I know your system has tons of accessories.

    All other things should be off (audio amps).

    Are you going to use an isolator for your two batteries (I don't remember). If so, you may save yourself a bit by getting a hybrid (marine/starting) battery for the back. They have the best properties of both a engine starting battery and a deep cycle. And assuming your system will not spend more than 24 hours in sleep mode, should probably work well for you. And using a battery isolator would keep it from draining your front battery. And the inverter will shut down anyway and change your hybrid sleep mode from sleep to hibernate anyway.

    Okay, I think I rambled there a bit. But that's my input
    Only thing is sleep will be the Dual Zone PC on a OPUS 320. The multi zone (pc on inverter) will cold boot. Also the USB ports will be powered on the dz system (PC does it by default.). Everything else will be off.

    There is a relay in between the two batteries. So when the car is off, the Car PC only has access to one battery.
    Last edited by HiJackZX1; 01-18-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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  10. #450
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Hi, you really need to measure this equipment.

    Problem with those amplifier figures are the power rating are meaningless unless the measurement reference is given. Most of those figures look like instantaneous peak, which are useless.
    The power drawn by these amplifiers will be dependent on how loud you normally run them and the nature of music you listen to.

    IMHO jmullan99 comments are pretty close to the mark.

    Put an ampere meter in series with the opus and measure the running/suspend currents, do the same with the Inverter.

    Accessories? Depends on what you mean by accessories, if they are vehicle acc and independent of the PC system then that should be easy to measure.

    If, as you say, you isolate all add-on equipment to the Aux circuit when the vehicle is off then I see no reason why the vehicle battery canít be retained at its normal size (with that big ALT) and a really big AUX battery used to handle the add-in system. Worst case is the PC shuts down but vehicle always starts. I think you may be going to unnecessary expense until the actual operating and standby mode currents are correctly measured.

    BTW: Iím surprised at that 300A fuse recommendation, fuses donít blow right at the rating (usually above) and that means you will exceed the design rating of the alternator, is that 270A alternator guaranteed to supply close to 300A by this supplier?
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