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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

  1. #451
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Well the only thing that will be on the crank battery is the camera system which has 5 cameras, DQP, black box recorder. Eventually plan to add a uber car alarm system. That will run off the front battery. Then the Car PC units will run off the rear. With hybrid sleep, only the Opus 320, USB, and 6 KVMP switches will maybe stay on (5V @ 2amps each).
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  2. #452
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    I was thinking of 2 of these.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...00-KHC800.html

    Battery Specifications

    Cranking Amps: 950
    Amp Hours: 36
    Weight: 26 lbs.
    Dimensions: 5”D x 7-5/8”W x 6”H

    This Kinetik 12-Volt Car Audio Power Cell features a sealed absorbed glass mat (AGM) design and is perfect for 800-watt car audio sound systems. The HC800 can be used as a replacement for your vehicles standard battery or as an additional battery to provide the extra power needed for a high performance aftermarket system. It's leak-proof design and no external vents allow this power cell to fit in most factory battery locations with no hazardous leaks.

    Kinetik's KHC800 Power Cell puts out 950 cranking amps with a 36 amp hour rating. This battery will resist extreme heat conditions and vibrations and is 100% sealed in a reinforced ABS plastic case. Kinetik has equipped this power cell with more plates for stronger energy density and a high voltage underload. You will love the way Kinetik batteries get your system powered up and ready to go!
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  3. #453
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Hi again, may I suggest that you get the specifications for the value of current that the battery can supply over varying time periods.

    A given battery may be rated at 38Ah but its 20 hour rate may be 1.7A, whereas a 100Ah battery my supply 4.6A for 20 hours (new battery condition and charge) and they vary with battery type and discharge time. Then you have the problem of recharge time, if not sufficient then the discharge rate is reduced significantly and the whole system slowly spirals down to a failed battery.

    This is why it’s absolutely imperative to measure the real standby current in order to select the appropriate battery. I don’t really feel that total cranking amperes is of that much interest in selecting a secondary equipment supply battery, maybe they are linked? Don’t know.

    BTW we were talking about Web cams and Black Box recorders a while ago. Wife bought me a black box camera for my birthday, going to post a few videos.

    Cheers
    Last edited by Mickz; 01-20-2012 at 05:41 PM.
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  4. #454
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Well I decided to get a normal battery in the front. The rear will get a deep cycle battery.

    Well I have some good and bad news. I have decided to pull the multizone system out of the car. The power requirements are just way to much. It is not practical at all. I have started to look into the Raspberry Pi boards. Its basically a $35.00 PC that runs Linux. So once they start selling, I will buy 6 of those. These things use so little power that they can be powered with 5V 1amp power source. The OS will sit on a SD card. Only thing I will need to buy are SD cards, and HDMI to VGA adapters. At least now I can use the Hexacore in my house, especially since I plan to get back into video editing and web design again.
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  5. #455
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickz View Post

    BTW we were talking about Web cams and Black Box recorders a while ago. Wife bought me a black box camera for my birthday, going to post a few videos.

    Cheers
    Cant wait to see!
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  6. #456
    Constant Bitrate kolton5543's Avatar
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    How could you possibly drop almost everything you have done here and instead decide to go with some really small low powered systems that in the end probably aren't even going to be capable of running your software efficient enough to really even be practical? The way I see it, you have already spent years of hard labor and have it almost finished with only a few minor issues that could use a bit of tuning. I would keep at it and make it all work together.

    Any how, for trying to figure out how much something would consume, take it's rated wattage's and divide that by 12volts and that will provide you with how many amps it will consume at full load plus or minus a few amps due to loss of efficiency and actual output compared to rated output. Based on my calculations on the rated power outputs you have provided us with a few post back, I would have to say a simple 200amp fuse should be able to hold everything and only blow if everything is at full load and/or shorted out. If you do so, make sure you use a good fuse holder that is guaranteed to support that much amperage and make sure the fuse connections are good and solid and same for the wires. I'm willing to bet that the reason the fuse holder had melted was because of either a faulty fuse holder or faulty connections.

    As for your battery dying while in sleep one or two of those batteries you had listed should do for a long period of time. If you were to decide on two of them for your aux bank then I would recommend only one of these batteries then. About the same price as two of the Kinetiks but more than triple the capacity. Takes up less space than two of the Kinetiks also.

    Any how, that's my input and I would say to keep the project going the way it has been. There's no point in stopping and taking a different path now. Initially, it will use up just as much work as there currently is left and then once it's almost done it will suddenly have just as many issues that will need revising.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lincolnman View Post
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  7. #457
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kolton5543 View Post
    How could you possibly drop almost everything you have done here and instead decide to go with some really small low powered systems that in the end probably aren't even going to be capable of running your software efficient enough to really even be practical? The way I see it, you have already spent years of hard labor and have it almost finished with only a few minor issues that could use a bit of tuning. I would keep at it and make it all work together.
    Thats the issue. The powerful system is just to hard to power. Also the software for it just isnt there. Now if I can get MS Multipoint, all would be kinda OK. Issue is that its not available to the public. It would be easier to use the RP unit. It will accomplish what I am looking for. Something to give the user internet, video, music and 2D gaming, which the units are capable of. Also power them is soooooooooooo much easier. They only use 5V 1amp.

    Any how, for trying to figure out how much something would consume, take it's rated wattage's and divide that by 12volts and that will provide you with how many amps it will consume at full load plus or minus a few amps due to loss of efficiency and actual output compared to rated output. Based on my calculations on the rated power outputs you have provided us with a few post back, I would have to say a simple 200amp fuse should be able to hold everything and only blow if everything is at full load and/or shorted out. If you do so, make sure you use a good fuse holder that is guaranteed to support that much amperage and make sure the fuse connections are good and solid and same for the wires. I'm willing to bet that the reason the fuse holder had melted was because of either a faulty fuse holder or faulty connections.
    I think its because i had the wrong fuse in there. The alternator guy said to go with 300a fuses. So thats what I did. I also bought all new fuse holders. Some that are easier to change the fuse.

    As for your battery dying while in sleep one or two of those batteries you had listed should do for a long period of time. If you were to decide on two of them for your aux bank then I would recommend only one of these batteries then. About the same price as two of the Kinetiks but more than triple the capacity. Takes up less space than two of the Kinetiks also.

    Any how, that's my input and I would say to keep the project going the way it has been. There's no point in stopping and taking a different path now. Initially, it will use up just as much work as there currently is left and then once it's almost done it will suddenly have just as many issues that will need revising.
    Yea, I decided to go to Pep boys, where I bought my Bosch battery. They said I murdered it. It couldnt hold a charge. So they gave me a new one for half price. Only the rear will get the XS Power battery.

    They setup was originally built for 7 car pc units. Because I couldnt find a cheap individual solution, I went with the hexacore. Now though I am having so many issues powering the d@mn thing. With the RP units, just use a car charger. Now thats the question I have. Are 5V car chargers regulated, or will I have to apply regulated 12V power? I ask because I also have 6 KVMP switches that run on car chargers also.
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  8. #458
    Constant Bitrate kolton5543's Avatar
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    Hmm. I still think you're giving up too early. Personally, I would keep at it. I believe your best solution is to run a high amp alt a maximum 200amp fuse and one or two of the kinetiks or the stinger for you're aux batteries and just use a simple battery for your main starter battery.
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  9. #459
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    The issue as I see it is not with powering the system.

    The issue is that HiJackZX1 wants to put the system into sleep (not Hibernate) for extended periods of time and that is where the issue of current consumption comes in. The only way to find out what the TRUE sleep current is, is to measure it – you cannot calculate that.

    IMHO - If it weren’t for extended sleep requirements combined with short driving trips then there would not be a problem powering this unit. From reading back over the thread I think this is the real problem, I don’t think that requirement has changed?
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  10. #460
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kolton5543 View Post
    Hmm. I still think you're giving up too early. Personally, I would keep at it. I believe your best solution is to run a high amp alt a maximum 200amp fuse and one or two of the kinetiks or the stinger for you're aux batteries and just use a simple battery for your main starter battery.
    I just ordered a HO alt. Had no choice, the Car PC killed my original. I replaced the original battery with the same brand. Then going to use a XS Power battery in the rear.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mickz View Post
    The issue as I see it is not with powering the system.

    The issue is that HiJackZX1 wants to put the system into sleep (not Hibernate) for extended periods of time and that is where the issue of current consumption comes in. The only way to find out what the TRUE sleep current is, is to measure it – you cannot calculate that.

    IMHO - If it weren’t for extended sleep requirements combined with short driving trips then there would not be a problem powering this unit. From reading back over the thread I think this is the real problem, I don’t think that requirement has changed?
    Mickz, your getting mixed up. The DZ system I want to hybrid sleep. The MZ system would never ever do hybrid sleep. The issue is that the software is not there for the MZ. So right now, its a reallyyyyyy big paper weight. Its easier on power and configuring to just use the Raspberry Pi units. Now originally, I was going to use them, but when I contacted them they said it wasnt ready and not for sale yet. That was beginning of last year.

    Kolton, I know it seems like I am giving up on the hexacore, but its only because I want my car to be a model for what others can do. Right now, no one would want to put such a complicated system that relies on an inverter. Also the cost, I dont even want to go there. With the RP units, its would be about 100.00 for the PSU (car charger), SD card, the RP unit, and the HDMI to VGA converter. With the screen you pay about about 170.00 but you can get it with HDMI, then not even need the converter (my setup is locked to VGA because of the KVMP switches). So which would you choose? The monster that sucks you dry financially and isnt stable, or a truly independent unit that costs close to nothing.
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