Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

Not that monster. Anyone that runs serious audio has done this cable upgrade. Unless your talking about all the car chargers, lol. Tomorrow I get the alternator, so Im happy.

I got the 7th KVMP switch. I got it off ebay for one dollar, lol. Turns out its the normal KVMP switch, that doesnt come with audio. Turns out thats good because I only want it to switch screens. Then it didnt come with cables, but turns out the cables arent complicated like the ones I have (which do audio). All the cables I have in the car for both screens, plugged right into the KVMP switch. Im hopping it will work and switch between the front main screen, and rear screen. That way I can watch video also when parked. By doing this I can kill a screen and only go with five. That means I can normalize my dash and take the second Lilliput out and simply have the motorized screen.

Originally Posted by Enforcer

Why are you using a red cable on the GND?

Because it doesnt matter what color it is. It all does the same thing, lol. I didnt feel like ordering in black. The cabling isnt cheap. I had plentyyyyyy of red, so I used it.

you might want to at least 'candy-cane' it with a roll of black electrical tape to make it easier to identify as a ground--primarily because i don't believe you do your own engine work(at least, that is what your other mechanical-related posts suggest), and it will make it much easier on the mechanic that might need to service near that line..

Originally Posted by soundman98

you might want to at least 'candy-cane' it with a roll of black electrical tape to make it easier to identify as a ground--primarily because i don't believe you do your own engine work(at least, that is what your other mechanical-related posts suggest), and it will make it much easier on the mechanic that might need to service near that line..

I do my own engine work. Just nothing hardcore like taking the engine completely apart. If I take the car to a shop, its usually because its under warranty and or its an insurance fix. Any mechanic that cant see neg on the battery is a idiot. The way the cable is set up, you cant reverse them anyways.

Here is the KVMP switch installed. The person didnt send the cables, but turns out the extension cables plug into the input ports of the KVMP switch. Then the USB use the USB B connectors, had two of those laying around. Of course the screen plugged into VGA out and the touch screen into the device one port. All I have to do is power it up and hope the PC will see it as two different touchscreens when I switch. Then it will work perfect. I will be able to control front and rear from one screen when selected. Then I can delete the second driver screen.

OK, got the alternator installed. I need help though, or maybe this is normal. When the car is idle, everything is way brighter then with the old alternator. Thing is, when I rev my engine, the lights get brighter. Then as I come down on speed, the lights go to the new normal brightness. At idle it puts out 170 amps. Then at 1200rpm it does 270 amps. Could this difference be the issue?

The way Mechman said to install is to install to battery, then from the chassis of the alt direct to the battery. I ran out of room, so 2 ground points I put on a bolt. Wonder if thats the issue. Here are pictures, tell me if its correct. Unless what is happening is normal.

Take a voltmeter and see what voltage you are getting. The number of amps produced shouldn't affect brightness.

There are situations where the old system just wasn't efficient enough to keep the voltage up ( ~13.5V ) so lights were dim, typically do to low RPM, old dirty connections, etc. In either case it's still the voltage.

If you measure something higher than 13.5V - 14.0V while running, I would be cautious to make sure all electrical systems are okay to handle the voltage you measure.

It’s a bit hard to give a simple answer. Obviously the voltage will have to be measured at idle and at higher RPM. These should be measured again with the system loaded, Air con, lights, Amps and PC running.

You may have had a low charging voltage with that OLD alternator and this would have caused batteries to die prematurely and appear to be incapable of powering the system for any length of time. This new alternator may be set for the correct output voltage and would be immediately noticeable to you. On a simple voltage sense system 13.7v to 14.0 would to be normal but again with certain batteries this requirement can vary. IMHO 13.4v is just low and 13.6v won’t cut it if you do short trips with a high current draw or higher than normal standby current. Bosh and others along with battery and vehicle manufactures have been debating this for a long time.

Is the regulator part of the new alternator and self contained or does it interface to the vehicle CPU or a vehicle controlled current/voltage sensing module – or both?

Charging voltage can be anywhere from 13.5v to 14.1v and up to 14.8v for short periods with an intelligent charging system (rare) that takes into account three stages required for correct charging of the battery. Some High performance Batteries can be run even higher (manufacture data) although there will be limitation due to individual vehicles design and electronic stress.

Due to the 14.5v to 15v cycling requirements of my small 26Ah deep-cycle sealed AUX battery and often short driving times, I’m fitting a small socket for a sola or small smart charger for the days of the week when I’m not using the vehicle, this can add years to the life of that AUX battery (if I don’t deep discharge it too often).

It’s interesting that more Batteries will die from incorrect charging that from old age.

Originally Posted by Mickz

It’s a bit hard to give a simple answer. Obviously the voltage will have to be measured at idle and at higher RPM. These should be measured again with the system loaded, Air con, lights, Amps and PC running.

You may have had a low charging voltage with that OLD alternator and this would have caused batteries to die prematurely and appear to be incapable of powering the system for any length of time. This new alternator may be set for the correct output voltage and would be immediately noticeable to you. On a simple voltage sense system 13.7v to 14.0 would to be normal but again with certain batteries this requirement can vary. IMHO 13.4v is just low and 13.6v won’t cut it if you do short trips with a high current draw or higher than normal standby current. Bosh and others along with battery and vehicle manufactures have been debating this for a long time.

Is the regulator part of the new alternator and self contained or does it interface to the vehicle CPU or a vehicle controlled current/voltage sensing module – or both?

Charging voltage can be anywhere from 13.5v to 14.1v and up to 14.8v for short periods with an intelligent charging system (rare) that takes into account three stages required for correct charging of the battery. Some High performance Batteries can be run even higher (manufacture data) although there will be limitation due to individual vehicles design and electronic stress.

Due to the 14.5v to 15v cycling requirements of my small 26Ah deep-cycle sealed AUX battery and often short driving times, I’m fitting a small socket for a sola or small smart charger for the days of the week when I’m not using the vehicle, this can add years to the life of that AUX battery (if I don’t deep discharge it too often).

It’s interesting that more Batteries will die from incorrect charging that from old age.

The regulator is in the alternator, but controlled by the PCM. This new alternator puts out 14.8. I know the old one was 12.9, so that explains all the batteries I went through. The car does not like the higher voltage because I am getting a check engine light. Its some sensor that sits near the alternator and is very sensitive to higher voltage. I am going to have to find the sensor and maybe shield the cable.

I also do not drive my car for long periods of time, I am hoping that the high out put alternator will correct that. I am still debating what rear battery to get. I am thinking of either the XS Power D2400 or XS Power D3400. The difference is 5 amp hours and $50.00 bucks.