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Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

  1. #541
    Variable Bitrate vincenttor's Avatar
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    haha starts to look like a datacenter on wheels
    Been a while ago but i see your still pretty busy with it.
    Looks nice the pile of computers hehe, you need an extra alternator to get this powered up lol

  2. #542
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vincenttor View Post
    haha starts to look like a datacenter on wheels
    Been a while ago but i see your still pretty busy with it.
    Looks nice the pile of computers hehe, you need an extra alternator to get this powered up lol
    Ive missed you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL.... I got the HO alternator in. Also put in a really big battery in the rear. It takes care of all my power needs and then some. The computers use very little power draw. The only thing that may draw power is the sub woofer setup I would like to install. The current one I have is to whimpy. I am going to pull the whole setup out and redo it. I want it all to be accessible. As of now, certain things i can not reach. I looked over in your thread. I love the LEDs in the bottom of the doors. I also want to put some in the foot wells. The Durango is missing them for some reason.
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  3. #543
    Variable Bitrate vincenttor's Avatar
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    nice to hear, ive checked your thread and looks impressive the dash with all the screens on in the evening.
    Also seen your new alternator indeed, nice and big.
    Wish i could add one of those in my car but thats to much trouble and the little one i have now seems to handle the amps pretty good.
    Start all over again ?? haha
    crazy to rewire all again , well good luck ill check from time to time the thread .

  4. #544
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vincenttor View Post
    nice to hear, ive checked your thread and looks impressive the dash with all the screens on in the evening.
    Also seen your new alternator indeed, nice and big.
    Wish i could add one of those in my car but thats to much trouble and the little one i have now seems to handle the amps pretty good.
    Start all over again ?? haha
    crazy to rewire all again , well good luck ill check from time to time the thread .
    Well not completely over. The wiring will stay the same. Just the rest that will change. Because I want to close off the rear 100%, I can use that whole space and spread everything out. I also want to consolidate the amps and what not to one side of the car. Only the battery, sub, and sub amp will be on the other.
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  5. #545
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Help with powering a cr@p load of devices!

    Finally decided to finish my install. Multizone and all.

    As you know, I bought 6 thin clients to act as the individual units for each seat. I was trying to wait for the Raspberry PI, but there is to much demand on the device. Since the rear seats do not need high end stuff, just the ability to listen to music video, and other miner things, I went with them. Each cost me $11.99 each. Each unit is 800mhz, 512mb RAM, and will each get a 4gb CF card for the OS (which have been purchased). I thought I would have issues with trying to power these units, but turns out that they are DC-DC power supplies. The seller said to basically fuse each PSU and connect to 12V power. So that is out of the way.

    I replaced all the crappy 7 port hubs I have, with hubs from a company call Inland. They work flawlessly now and I have no device connection errors. All are powered via car adapter chargers, but will soon be powered by a individual PSU (READ BELOW).

    Here is where I am having major issues. I have 7 KVMP switches. One for each seat, then two for the driver. One is used to switched the main screen from main driver screen to rear entertainment (that allowed me to eliminate the driver needing two screens). The issue is that the KVMP switches all require 5V at 2.6amps. They will not work correctly with anything lower, causing issues. What can i do to power these units? I basically need 18.20 amps to power them. Adding all other 5V devices, that brings me to 23.20 amps. Most car based PSUs do not support that load. My logic was to pull out an inverter I originally wanted to use, it was to power the original multizone system, which consisted of a massive system that had the ability to support multiple users. The inverter is 600 watts. Then I am going to connect a desktop PSU to it which 450watts with 34amps on the 5V rail. Then I can wire the KVMP switches into the 5V rail. The PSU I am looking at supports 5v @ 34amps. I was going to hack the desktop PSU so that when power is applied it just turns on, meaning a PC doesnt trigger it. Basically the Opus will trigger the inverter to turn on via relay.

    I think this idea is better because fusing so many devices (car chargers) is a huge pain. At least by using the desktop psu and inverter, it will all be regulated power. Does my idea seem sound? Anything I should look out for?
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  6. #546
    Constant Bitrate
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    I would look at getting a 12 volt to 5 Volt stepdown with enough current to run everything. Something like this 25 amp one for the current you calculated or this 50 amp one to give you some headroom.

  7. #547
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    What a ultimate system. Will you be able to remote to the main server or machine in your hookup? Will you also have wifi? Maybe I missed the post about how you will connect to the internet. I just got back from a road trip to San Diego and having the hotspot/internet capability was very convenient for my fam.
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  8. #548
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Finally decided to finish my install. Multizone and all.
    I replaced all the crappy 7 port hubs I have, with hubs from a company call Inland. They work flawlessly now and I have no device connection errors. All are powered via car adapter chargers, but will soon be powered by a individual PSU (READ BELOW).

    Here is where I am having major issues. I have 7 KVMP switches. One for each seat, then two for the driver. One is used to switched the main screen from main driver screen to rear entertainment (that allowed me to eliminate the driver needing two screens). The issue is that the KVMP switches all require 5V at 2.6amps. They will not work correctly with anything lower, causing issues.
    Hi HiJackZX1, long time, good hubs make a real difference in big multi USB device systems, don’t they!

    I’m wondering about the power requirements for those KVMP switches. I’m assuming they have 4 port hubs and that the power requirement is based on a max worst case 500mA for each port and a bit for the KVM electronics. Unless you have every port loaded to 500ma they should need nowhere near that current. The KVM part should only need 100ma or so. Sorry if I misunderstood anything.
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  9. #549
    Maximum Bitrate jmullan99's Avatar
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    I agree with that_kid. Those power supplies he links to would make things a whole lot less messy. Easier to wire up. Just my thoughts.
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  10. #550
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    The idea is good and I could be wrong bit I think HiJackZX1 may have been tried these units before. I found a major flaw with these supplies in tests I carried out. They do not like going below 10.5v and will produce large unregulated excursions (instability) in output when doing so, there appears to be no LV dropout protection in the units I tested so that may have to be allowed for, in any case it means not allowing the supply to dip below 11v.
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