Thread: 2003 Durango SLT / Project HiJackZX1 (Finally Focused Remix)

Deleting my mirrors has been a long time goal of mine. I want everything to be digital and keep my eyes on the road and on that screen. With a digital system I can get a panoramic view of what is going on. No blind spots, no nothing.

How it works:

A camera is put in key locations. This achieves the panoramic view. It took some time for me to make it all look even. The rear camera has a different aspect ratio then the side cams. I did this because I wanted to see more then with a standard mirror. The cams aspect ratio is so great that it kills the blind spots back there. The side cameras are normal aspect. The image I saw in my mirrors, is exactly the same. I also have a cabin camera which records all the passengers. In the future I plan to make the adventures into a Youtube channel (more details on that later).




So as you can see I have a pretty good view now. All the cameras then feed into digital quad color processor. This is the same thing security monitors use to combine 4 images onto one screen. Then from the DQP it goes to a black box recording device.

http://www.rearviewsafety.com/index....ox-system.html



Basically it records MPH, GPS location and other important stuff. This unit has a forward facing camera, thats why I haven't installed my own. What is unique is that you can add a second camera via a headphone adapter type plug. I plan to mod this and make it so I can connect the DQP to it. That means this unit can now record 5 cameras at one time. I plan to buy this unit in the next few months.

Future upgrade:

Now this system does have a down fall. It works very bad at night with so much headlight traffic. It is manageable but I would like something solid. My plan is to buy four FLIR cameras.

http://www.amazon.com/Flir-PathFindI.../dp/B001RYK2GU




That way i can always see rear panoramic, now matter what. These things use heat, so no light required. I am going to hook up a relay system for the rear view screen, so when it gets dark, the relay is tripped and it switches to those cameras. Also a second DQP will be used so that the black box is recording usable images at night. Now for the front, the front facing FLIR camera will be connected to the motorized screen that will be installed for the drivers personal system. i simply switch to AV and I will see the FLIR image directly in front of me.

Right now I can not do this idea unless I win the lottery. I am trying to wait for the price to drop, then I will invest in them.

USB Devices PC1:

------------------------------
ON BOARD PORTS
------------------------------
1) GPS / IO Panel Installed
2) TV Tuner Card Installed
3) 7 Port Hub 1 / IO Panel Installed
4) 7 Port Hub 2 / IO Panel Installed
5) 7 Port Hub 3 / IO Panel Installed
6) Comcast Mobile2Go 3G Installed
7) TPMS / IO Panel Installed
8) N/B/G Wifi Card / IO Panel Installed
9) Mo-Co-So BT Dongle / MB Header Installed
10) IDE to USB adapter / MB Header Installed
11) USB Relay Installed
12) Ethernet to USB Installed

-----------------------------
7 Port Hub 1 (powered)
-----------------------------
1) KVMP 1 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
2) KVMP 2 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
3) KVMP 3 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
4) KVMP 4 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
5) KVMP 5 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
6) KVMP 6 w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen Installed
7) Wireless Keyboard Installed

---------------------------
7 Port Hub 2 (powered)
---------------------------
1) Mitch's Audio Selector Installed
2) Windows Media Remote Installed
3) Touchscreen Installed
4) 4 Port Serial to USB Installed
5) Hi-Fi IR reciever
6) USB Soundcard Installed
7) EVO tether

--------------------------
7 Port Hub 3 (powered)
--------------------------
1) Center Console USB Port 1
2) Center Console USB Port 2
3) Center Console USB Port 3
4) Center Console USB Port 4
5) Center Console USB Port 5
6) Center Console USB Port 6
7) Card Reader / MB Header Installed


USB Devices PC 1-6 Thin clients

------------------------------
ON BOARD PORTS
------------------------------
1) Center Console user USB port
2) KVMP w/ Mini-Pac and Touch Screen

Ethernet wiring cable guide:

Code:

Ethernet Cable 1 (For all seats arm rest, except driver / 
Driver located in center console)

Blue: Ctrl Button +
Blue White: Enter Button +
Green: S Button +
Green White: Button Ground -
Orange: Headphone + (2) 
Orange White: Headphone - (1) Brown: 
Headphone Ground 
Brown White: Not Used

Ethernet Cable 1 (For driver)

Blue: Power Button + (round)
Blue White: Power Button - (round)
Green: Reset Button + (square)
Green White: Reset Button - (square)
Orange: Main PC Power Button + (round)
Orange White: Main PC Power Button - (round)
Brown: Main PC Reset Button + (square)
Brown White: Main PC Reset Button - (square)

Passenger Front Extra Wiring

Red: Camera Power +
Black: Camera Power -
White: Camera Video +
Black: Camera Video -


Driver Extra Wiring

Ethernet Cable 2

Up Module

Blue: Blue / Trigger +
Blue White: Black / Trigger -
Green: Red / ACC

Down Module

Green White: Blue / Trigger +
Orange: Black / Trigger -
Orange White: Red / ACC

Brown: Camera Video +
Brown White: Camera Video -

Red: Window Modules +
Blue: Window Modules -

Passengers Extra Wiring

Ethernet Cable 2

Blue: USB Power + (PC1)
Blue White: USB Power - (PC1)
Green: USB Data (PC1)
Green White: USB Data (PC1)
Orange: USB Data (PC2)
Orange White: USB Data (PC2)
Brown: USB Ground (PC1)
Brown White: USB Ground (PC2)

My Build Plan!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1: Finish Camera System
-------------------------------------
* Buy 2 more cameras for side mirrors. [DONE]
* Buy DQP to replace the one a modded and killed. [DONE]
* Wire up new cameras and DQP. [DONE]
* Have fabricator mod second pair of mirrors to only fit cameras. [DONE BY MYSELF]
* Buy black box recorder. [DONE]
* Install black box. [DONE]
* Have a top enclosure built to hide camera and black box. Also to make screen look like its built into the top heads up display.

2: Sound
-------------------------------------
* Buy 3 pairs of 6 1/12 Alpine speakers to finish doors and third row speakers.
* Buy 2 Stax 4 Channel Amps.
* Buy 1 Stax Mono Amp.
* Install all speakers except 3rd row.
* Buy left hand side armrest cover to replace damaged one. [DONE]
* Mod new armrest cover perfectly. [DONE]
* Wire up all armrest audio and usb port for each seat.
* Install 3rd row speakers into rear panels.
* Buy 13 feet of Stinger HPM 0 gauge wire. [DONE]
* Install 0 gauge wiring and all distro blocks.
* Make mount system for amps in rear hatch and install amps.

3: Screens & other stuff
------------------------------------
* Buy 5 headrest screens. (VM70) [DONE]
* Find fabricator to finish C-Pillar screen holders.
* Install 2nd and 3rd row screens. [DONE]
* Make holders to hold 3 screens in front dash..
* Find fabricator to make tri-screen dash look OEM. Also integrate center speaker into dash.
* Have fabricator repair any damaged pieces which include passenger B-Pillar (integrate IR receiver), repair driver bottom panel, integrate speaker into middle dash panel for phone.
* Have metal plates made for USB ports, toggle switches and KVMP switchs for arm rests and one for center console for the driver.

4: Main PC related
------------------------------------
* Buy C2D processor (E8200) [DONE]
* Buy two 2 GB of DDR2 800 Ram to make up 4 GB. [DONE]
* Buy processor fan for main system. [DONE]
* Buy one OCZ Agility 2 SSD. [DONE]
* Buy one 1TB HDD for media.
* Buy Win 7 Ultimate 32bit and Win 7 Ultimate 64bit. [DONE]
* Buy ASUS Zonar Soundcard.[DONE]
* Build and install Windows 7 on PC. [DONE]
* Test bench for stability. [DONE]
* Buy Centrafuse 3 [DONE]
* Repurpose OPUS 320 for PSU. [DONE]
* Install CF3. [DONE]
* Buy relays for OPUS 320. [DONE]
* Install converter unit and relays in rear hatch, close to Access Point and Ethernet Switch. Wire up all devices (Access Point, KVMP switches, Ethernet Switch, USB Hubs)
* Install all USB devices and drivers to main PC slowly and do hybrid sleep testing on each one. [DONE]

5: Power
-------------------------------------
* Buy 270 AMP HO alternator [DONE]
* Buy two batteries, one to replace current one, and another to add second for Car PC. [DONE]
* Buy battery terminals for second battery. [DONE]
* Buy 0 gauge wire to install everything (7 feet should be good.) [DONE]
* Install alternator and wiring. [DONE]
* Install batteries. [DONE]

6: Rear PC units
-------------------------------------
* Buy 6 Maxterm MaxSpeed 8300B thin clients. [DONE]
* Buy 6 ASUS EEE power bricks. [DONE]
* Buy 6 Sata 2.5 HDD. [DONE]
* Buy 6 IDE extension cables. [DONE]
* Buy 6 IDE to Sata converters. [DONE]
* Buy 6 IDE to Sata power cables. [DONE]
* Install CF3 [DONE]
* Buy 600 watt inverter. [DONE]
* Buy 2 power strips, each with 6 plugs. [DONE]
* Mod 1 to extend power switch to driver, to control thin clients. [DONE]
* Mod other power strip to add another plug. Will be used for KVMP switches. [DONE]
* Test all units for bugs.
* Install rack into car.
* Mod ethernet armrest wiring for power and reset.
* Install audio wiring from ethernet armrest to KVMP switches.
* Connect main PC audio to KVMP switch, and connect rear PC audio to each KVMP switch. [DONE]
* Buy mini-pac for KVMPs. [DONE]
* Install touchscreens and keyboards to KVMP switches.
* Prey that touchscreens work ok on KVMP switch. [DONE, they do!]
* Test everything for glitches.

7: Rear PC Hatch
-------------------------------------
* Take out and mod hatch to reflect new rear panel design.
* Add large fan to rear panel.
* If any damage to vinyl is caused, take to upholsterer to repair.

8: Finished
-------------------------------------
* Go down in history as the only one to build two PC system, one which emulates 6 computers, into car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For install 3 i bought a Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer. Unfortunetly its PCI based and the new MoBo is PCIe x16 based. So that means $100.00 down the drain (Card cost me $79.00 and special 7.1 surround sound cables cost me $20.00). I am not willing to throw the card away so I found a PCIe x1 to PCI adapter. Its made for low profile cards, which the sound blaster is. Still trying to find out if a PCIe x1 device will work in a PCIe x16 slot.

Here is the item for purchasing purposes so I do not loose the links.

PCIe x1 to PCI adapter: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-165-_-Product

Well I got the PCIe to PCI adapter. I was worried that it would not work. I basically wanted to reuse my Sound Blaster PCI X-Fi XtremeGamer card. I like how it works and I also had to buy special cables to use the 7.1 feature. So basically I spent a bit of money on the card. The new MoBo only has a PCIe x16 slot. The PCIe to PCI adapter is basically a hit or miss item and doesnt work with all items. Its also made for low profile cards, but thankfully the soundcard is low profile. I had to make my own little bracket to permantely attach it to the adapter. I tested it in a PC I had at work and it did work perfectly. So now thats out of the way.

I have had the RVS-300 installed for a while. I just haven't had a software that could combine the clips into one movie. I finally found CyberLinks PowerDirector, which did what I wanted perfectly.



I did this with the PSP movie setting which still looked really good. Only thing I have to do now is buy the second camera and hack it to use my DQP. Then I can use 5 total cameras with the system.

-------------------------------------------------

On a side note, I got the HTC EVO 4G for Christmas. It was an early gift, lol. Because Sprint has started to roll out 4G, I already have it at my house. By the time my setup is done, 4G will be more avaliable.



First thing I researched was can I use Voice and Data at the same time. In 4G, yes, so I have decided to simply use the phone in tether mode. That means I do not have to sit there and buy a separate card for my setup. The only draw back is that if I want to use the Car PC remotely, I cant, but honestly, I do not think its a feature I will care for. I don't want to have to pay for a dedicated data plan and card.

The EVO does have a hot spot feature to allow other to connect to the device, but it is an additional 29.99 for that feature per month. There is a way to "root" the phone to unlock that feature, but I do not want to void the warranty. Instead I will tether the phone to the Car PC, which works perfectly. All I had to do was install a software on the PC and phone and it installs as a network on the PC. It cost me 9.95 and thats a one time charge. Only down fall is that if I am in 3G mode, if someone calls, I get knocked off, but thats fine, I can wait for 4G.

I have pretty much mastered my EVO and was getting kinda depressed that my Car PC and other upgrades were at a stand still.

As you know I bought the RVS-300C DVR system. I have been using it everyday without issue. I basically use CyberLink PowerDirector to make the movies, which look awesome. I wanted to use the RVS with my DQP and other cameras, but I did not know the pin settings and stuff. The only way to find out is to buy the units second camera and hack the thing up. That cost me $110.00 dollars for a camera I am not going to use. I basically need it only for its cable.



I am hoping that the RVS-300 doesnt need to interface with the camera chip (RVS-301), other wise I will have to figure something out to make the RVS-300 think that the RVS-301 is connected, but really my DQP is connected.

I also decided to finally finish the main wire install. Basically I need to run a 13 foot cable from the bottom of my seat (connector is under there) to the rear of the car. Then I can technically start getting the Car PC its self in.

I wanted to finish by the end of this year, but it was obviously not meant to be. Also still have to wait for CI to drop the CF 3.2 update.

Also, here is my latest video. I was actually racing a car towards the end, but because the camera system isnt 100% installed, I couldnt record me killing the car, lol.

OK, I bought the camera that connects to the DVR unit. I then cut up the cable and wired my DQP to it. The video and power share the same ground point and thats what the DVR looks for to enable the second recording. So all I had to do was wire in video.

Here it is me driving to get food. The second camera recording isn't high quality like the main unit, but you can still clearly see everything. Only draw back I see is that frame rate goes from 30 fps to 15 fps so it can record both video streams. Its a small issue, but nothing that takes away from its abilities.



I have decided to toss the cabin camera and replace it with the camera I bought for the cable. It is a CCD camera and much better quality. Works much better and looks better.

NOTE: The footage is very jerky, its a result of me using a slow PC to try to combine the video feeds together.