Thread: Project λ^2 (Lambda Squared or Lambda II) - 1988 Chevrolet C1500 Extended Cab

Wow, it took me this long to realize the " … " in my Tapatalk posts is supposed to show up as ellipses ( AKA: ... ). Still haven't had a chance to do any more to the truck, but I have figured out a better way to do the CarPC. I'll draw up a SketchUp model and post more details later. Also, the truck started smoking again, but I think I've narrowed the cause down to something in the intakes because dad and I took the air breather/intake and put it back on and it didn't smoke for a few days. Plus, I think I'm still losing coolant.

@rdholtz: The mechanic at the Chevy dealer said I have a cracked valve seal on #2. Is that easy to fix?

Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

Wow, it took me this long to realize the " … " in my Tapatalk posts is supposed to show up as ellipses ( AKA: ... ). Still haven't had a chance to do any more to the truck, but I have figured out a better way to do the CarPC. I'll draw up a SketchUp model and post more details later. Also, the truck started smoking again, but I think I've narrowed the cause down to something in the intakes because dad and I took the air breather/intake and put it back on and it didn't smoke for a few days. Plus, I think I'm still losing coolant.

@rdholtz: The mechanic at the Chevy dealer said I have a cracked valve seal on #2. Is that easy to fix?

Seems easy with the right tools. http://www.ehow.com/how_2110646_repl...ls-engine.html. I think thats one benefit from having an older standard engine. Its so easy to repair.

Actually I take that back..... seems like a bit of work. You need to remove the cylinder head cover, the rocker arms and the push rods. For a skilled mechanic that will be easy. For someone like me or you, it may take a bit longer.

Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

@rdholtz: The mechanic at the Chevy dealer said I have a cracked valve seal on #2. Is that easy to fix?

I've changed valve seals, but it was long, long ago. It wasn't so much hard as it was time-consuming. As HiJack said, you have to take off the valve covers to get to the seals. But the heads don't have to come off, and that saves a lot of work. If I had to changed valve seals right now, I'd be buying the manual as a guide, and asking Josh for help.

Originally Posted by freeflashstuff

. . . the truck started smoking again, but I think I've narrowed the cause down to something in the intakes because dad and I took the air breather/intake and put it back on and it didn't smoke for a few days. Plus, I think I'm still losing coolant.

Have you checked the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve? Seems to me that put will make 'er run rough, smoke, and suck more fuel. It's supposed to vent the crankcase into the breather/air filter housing. A bad one can pressurize the crankcase.

Loss of coolant is never a good thing, but it can be benign. What you don't want is for coolant to be disappearing because there's a bad head gasket and it's going into one or more cylinders; that makes for uneven temperatures and uneven pressures among the cylinders. And bad head gaskets are not self-repairing.

It could be a leak that only takes place at higher pressure, so it's hard to spot. One way to find it is to have the cooling system pressure tested and see if it leaks then. Once it's pressurized, spray soapy water onto the various parts; bubbles = leak.

Originally Posted by rdholtz

I've changed valve seals, but it was long, long ago. It wasn't so much hard as it was time-consuming. As HiJack said, you have to take off the valve covers to get to the seals. But the heads don't have to come off, and that saves a lot of work. If I had to changed valve seals right now, I'd be buying the manual as a guide, and asking Josh for help.

The only way the heads would have to come off is if they needed to be machined, right?

Originally Posted by rdholtz

Have you checked the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve? Seems to me that put will make 'er run rough, smoke, and suck more fuel. It's supposed to vent the crankcase into the breather/air filter housing. A bad one can pressurize the crankcase.

No, I haven't even thought about that. I was even reading about the PCV in my repair manual last night...

Originally Posted by rdholtz

Loss of coolant is never a good thing, but it can be benign. What you don't want is for coolant to be disappearing because there's a bad head gasket and it's going into one or more cylinders; that makes for uneven temperatures and uneven pressures among the cylinders. And bad head gaskets are not self-repairing.

Actually, I went back and checked, and I'm only losing a little bit to evaporation, so I know I'm OK there. I think I was losing so much because I didn't have a proper cap on the reservoir?

Originally Posted by rdholtz

It could be a leak that only takes place at higher pressure, so it's hard to spot. One way to find it is to have the cooling system pressure tested and see if it leaks then. Once it's pressurized, spray soapy water onto the various parts; bubbles = leak.

When I took it to the dealer to have it checked, I had them pressure test the cooling system, and they said all was well. Just that I had a fouled plug on #2 and a cracked valve seal on the same that was allowing oil to seep in. They also told me that a little bit of smoking in the early mornings is fine because it is just condensate from the hot engine being out in the cold. So, looks like I'm not gonna have to cough up much money, just an un-Godly amount of time.

Also, my odometer quit on me last night on my way to work for a drama performance. I was livid because the problems never cease! But, I reminded myself that that was a risk of taking on an older vehicle... I'm still looking for a way to get a new cluster with functioning gauges.

Today after school, my dad, a friend of mine, and I made a trip to the junk yard (50 miles away!). We got a new(ish) instrument cluster for my truck. Cost $75. I got back home and set the odometer and swapped them out and drove around for awhile. Everything seems to work fine except my fuel gauge bounces around. I'm gonna have to take a look at the grounding and the plug on the back of the cluster to rule out those basics... Is ~45 (psi (?)) on the oil pressure gauge normal for running Penzoil 10W-30?

Also, I haven't had any smoke on startup other than in the cold mornings (condensation?), so that's awesome! I also ordered a new radio bezel and I am planning on using it to glass my screen into so I can resurrect the CarPC as the TruckPC and maybe get it all working correctly. (Dang, I still need a new PSU first! Mechanics first, tech later, I suppose...)

The speedometer was 7 mph off and when I tried to fix it I made it 35 mph off... So now I'm grounded till I get it fixed. I guess it's punishment for having to use mom's truck. I still need to order a new PSU or fix my current one and I'm hoping to start fiberglassing over the holiday. I'll post pix as I get things done.

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35mph faster or slower? slower could work to your advantage if you were to get pulled over(but officer, i swear i was only doing 20!), faster will just mess with your head..

Originally Posted by soundman98

35mph faster or slower? slower could work to your advantage if you were to get pulled over(but officer, i swear i was only doing 20!), faster will just mess with your head..

Even though the speedo says its 35 slower, I dont think it will hold up against a Radar Gun, lol.

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Even though the speedo says its 35 slower, I dont think it will hold up against a Radar Gun, lol.

My thoughts exactly! I got it fixed today after school anyway.

I relocated my radio this evening with the help of a friend of mine (the non-active Tozir here on MP3Car... AKA: Jimmy). We ran the wires from the original locations and I hooked them up. I need to figure out a better way to mount it though... Anyway, hopefully over this holiday "break" ( research paper!) I'll be able to fiberglass the bezel for the screen. I really should get the U-Joints taken care of first...

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