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Thread: 2002 Honda Civic Ex --Worklog

  1. #21
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BERTMAN View Post
    i see youre gonna use 8g wire for +12v to the psu... is that necessary?
    im currently using 12 (i think).
    im only asking these questions because im in the process of moving my carpc to my new car, and im tweaking/fixing/adding to it.

    ps- anxious for in progress pics
    I have no idea. I tend to give myself a little room to grow most of the time just in-case. I know the bigger and shorter the wire the less resistance it has which means less heat and more efficient. Your have to ask someone else though sry. Im going to be running 14AWG to all present and future small devices (monitor, cd player, usb hub, and so on) @ 22 cents a foot at home depot.

    The first pic I'll give is going to be the timer relay circuit board, but won't have enough money to start everything for a couple more weeks :/.

  2. #22
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cla1067 View Post
    I have no idea. I tend to give myself a little room to grow most of the time just in-case. I know the bigger and shorter the wire the less resistance it has which means less heat and more efficient. Your have to ask someone else though sry. Im going to be running 14AWG to all present and future small devices (monitor, cd player, usb hub, and so on) @ 22 cents a foot at home depot.

    The first pic I'll give is going to be the timer relay circuit board, but won't have enough money to start everything for a couple more weeks :/.
    Give yourself room to go. I used 0 gauge with mine. 8 gauge isnt all that thick!
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  3. #23
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blafrisch View Post
    Two things about this statement that I should clear up for you and other readers.
    [LIST=1]

    This is actually an incorrect statement. A USB 3.0 hub actually contains 2 hubs: a USB 3.0 hub and a USB 2.0 hub. When you plug in a USB 2.0 device it uses the USB 2.0 hub which incurs the same limitations of a standalone USB 2.0 hub as I had mentioned above.
    * Reference

    Sorry to be a buzzkill on your idea about the 3.0 hub with 2.0 devices but that's the way it's currently implemented. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on this car. I really should post my newest work to here some time.
    Well it was more of a thought as I stated, but thanks very much for clearing that up. So if you plugged up usb 2.0 devices up to a usb 3.0 hub it wouldn't ever use the other 5 new connections on the usb 3.0 cable that is plugged into the hub? You would think there would be a way for the usb hub to process and utilize it.

    Quote Originally Posted by HiJackZX1 View Post
    Give yourself room to go. I used 0 gauge with mine. 8 gauge isnt all that thick!
    yeah I've been thinking about running a 0 gauge to the back and then splitting it off into 8 gauge instead of running a 4 gauge and splitting it off into 8, but 0 gauge is expensive.

  4. #24
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    Looking forward to seing your project. Just something to mention though. Home depot wire is for exactly that, the home. Try to find some good stranded tinned automotive wire. Will save you routing and other headaches in the long run. Just my .02c

  5. #25
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slociviccoupe View Post
    Looking forward to seing your project. Just something to mention though. Home depot wire is for exactly that, the home. Try to find some good stranded tinned automotive wire. Will save you routing and other headaches in the long run. Just my .02c
    YES, you are right. The home stuff is way different then the auto stuff. Usually the home is one solid piece of copper. Car wire is strands threaded together.

    I was saying stay with 8 gauge wire. If you plan to run amps and stuff then I recommend you go with 4 gauge. Unless you have a monster install and amps, you do not need 0 gauge.
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  6. #26
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    I prefer to use the 2-4 guage welding cable for power. Only comes in black though so colored heatshrink is a must when doing power cables. Its double insulated and as flexible as a wet noodle. Also good marine grade tinned connectors crimped and soldered then heatshrink gives a very clean reliable install.

  7. #27
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slociviccoupe View Post
    Looking forward to seing your project. Just something to mention though. Home depot wire is for exactly that, the home. Try to find some good stranded tinned automotive wire. Will save you routing and other headaches in the long run. Just my .02c
    well it was stranded and its only going to things that need probably max 2 to 3amps and everything will have fuses.

  8. #28
    Maximum Bitrate jmullan99's Avatar
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    Wow. You folks are overkill on the wire gauge. 8ga for 3A? But I can understand it as a matter of preference.

    I just looked at this project today. I was wondering what the purpose of the timed relay is. If you are using an automotive PSU for the computer, everything you need is there. I trigger my amp, power my USB hubs and monitor via a spare hard drive power connector. The PSU has the timing for startup and shutdown. And my generic PSU doesn't have an amp trigger on it.

    I do like Hijack's idea of an extra switch in the mix to keep the PSU going while ignition is off. Just have to put a diode in so it doesn't backfeed into the car and keep everything else alive too. Or I guess a SPDT to toggle between always hot and the ignition switch would work. This will be added to the spring project list. It's just too darn cold to work outside too much right now.

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  9. #29
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    I'll update this thread probably in a week. I've changed a couple of things and ordered all the parts/wires. This build is going to be upgraded slowly overtime and therefore I have to plan everything out, so it can be upgraded without changing parts. In other words I'd rather add parts then have to remove and add parts.

    I got the timer relay finished it has like a 45 sec delay even that I only need like a second delay, but doesn't really matter I can adjust it later if needed. Later on not everything is going to be triggered by the psu and the 3 position switch turning from manual to auto would cause the power to everything to flicker, but with a timer relay it will not.

    I dropped the usb hub and instead I'm going to run usb 2.0 extension cables. I will be starting off with 3 extension cables and adjust that as needed.

    | 3 x 12.5 = 37.5 watts | 3 x 13.5= 40.5 watts |


    edit: I don't blame you. I hate cold weather.

  10. #30
    Maximum Bitrate jmullan99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cla1067 View Post
    This build is going to be upgraded slowly overtime and therefore I have to plan everything out, so it can be upgraded without changing parts. .... Later on not everything is going to be triggered by the psu and the 3 position switch turning from manual to auto would cause the power to everything to flicker, but with a timer relay it will not.
    Ahhh. Okay, I got it. I was missing the future part. If I rely on the 90W PSU I may also resort to a relay. But I am not close enough to that and it will be easy to integrate later.

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