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Thread: '69 Cadillac Deville

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    sadly they really dont make a "crate motor" for this thing as they havnt made the 472/500 cadillac motor for 30+ years. so every "new" one of these beasts is actually a rebuilt one so youre usually going to run into the same $$ tag ~_~ that and putting your own name on something youre driving around fluffs the ego just a bit

    i have so many links tied to my photobucket account that i couldnt just delete the original album, and the original one was kinda messed up so i made a new one:

    http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll195/minddrive_rs/DEVILLE%20RESTO%20PROJECT/

    in another post you asked about brackets giz, here is one that i had to customize for the tensioner:



    *edit* due to the technical nature of making a tensioner bracket like this, that picture is the rough cut, i then took the lower part and milled it true to the base so that it was 100% paralell between the top and the bottom. any slight variance will cause the belt to track slightly and at higher rpm's might even throw the belt off the pulley.


    basicly i took the tensioner off a jeep cherokee, chopped it and welded it at the height i needed for it to line up with the power steering pump:

    that is a piece of polycarbonate 1/4" im using as a template to make sure everything fits ok since T6 6061 aluminum is so expencive. as you can see, theres been quite a few modifications to the design once i went from the panelling to the poly carbonate. at first i was going to use the alternator like they used to be, adjust for a tighter belt but i just couldnt see using something new skool with old skool like that so i opted to go all out with the belt system.

    the tensioner i have done is for the power steering and the ac compressor, and right now im designing another mounting plate for the tensioner that runs the 2 alternators and the water pump ::


    in that last picture i found out i have serious clearance issues with the belt wrapping around the tensioner and running into the water pump pulley so i had to pull it off and reconfigure the location and the angle the belt is routed. now i think ive got a better routing system in that the belt will come over the top alternator wrap around the water pump, go in between the crank and water pump to the tensioner, back to the crank and then to the lower alternator and upto the top alternator.... yeah thats the ticket trust me, ive scratched a bald spot in my head trying to figure it out. the previous design that showed the tensioner mounted to the alternators was "flimsy" and seemed like it would allow the belt to pull and flex off the pulleys.

    im using a $90 welder i picked up from harbor freight that has flux core wire (no gas wire welding) thats working pretty good. im still kinda new to wire feed welding as upposed to stick welding but im getting the hang of it

    Giz... show me some good pictures of your engine compartment and the supercharger youre planning on putting on there, might be able to help ya out

    REMEMBER:
    fabricating custom stuff is NOT about failure!!! its about finding 10000 ways that dont work and better excuses to drink at 10am ^_^

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    OH just wanted to add... junkyards are your FRIEND!!!! especially the ones you can go into and pick your own parts!!!! i suggest finding one near you, and if you have an automotive project your thinking about digging into that you havnt done before, goto the junkyard and practice on their "junk" if you break it, so what, its gonna get smashed anyway

  3. #13
    The Last Good Gremlin GizmoQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MindDrive View Post
    OH just wanted to add... junkyards are your FRIEND!!!! especially the ones you can go into and pick your own parts!!!! i suggest finding one near you, and if you have an automotive project your thinking about digging into that you havnt done before, goto the junkyard and practice on their "junk" if you break it, so what, its gonna get smashed anyway
    Already doing this, too.
    HARDWARE: Fujitsu Stylistic ST5111w/WiFi and dock, internal Hitachi 500G HD, external 1TB HD, Sierra Wireless Aircard 550, DVD-RW, BoomzBox HD radio, XM Commander, Delorme GPS, Saitek X-52 Pro joystick, BluSoleil Bluetooth, TPMS, FB, Elm327

  4. #14
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    that's how my brother and i learned how to remove his cars door panels

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    junkyards:
    "toys R us" for gearheads and mod'rs

  6. #16
    Constant Bitrate MindDrive's Avatar
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    well... ive done some "work" on the car and drew up some generic schematics:


    thats a VERY basic layout of how the alternator/battery system is going to be put in. There is going to be 2 very isolated 12V circuits, one for JUST the car and what came with the car, and one for everything else.

    The yellow battery is for what cadillac had onboard while the red batteries are for the sub systems and carpc/audio. The blue box is a battery isolator that will run off of the 160A alternator that feeds the front red battery and the 2 red batteries in the trunk. the front red battery will be for the car pc ONLY so that the pc can remain in standby mode while not in use. the 2 batteries in the trunk will be for the amps.

    using what i learned installing a car pc in my seville (in my signature), this layout will be more than suitable for continuous useage and reliability. the seville only had a 140A alternator but it had to share the responcibility of charging the cars' battery and supply power to the carpc and amps. by sepparating the workload and since the carpc that i built can remain running for upto 2 weeks on a single battery, the isolator should be able to charge the front red battery rather quickly then charge the 2 batteries in the trunk and sustain the workload through the isolator.


    this pulley system has been kicking my butt lately which is why this thing hasnt been started yet ~_~. I had everything all layed out and ready to make the final fabrication, then i had a friend of mine thats REALLY into cars (he goes over the top and has customized a dodge dakota to the point that its filled his basement with trophies and awards) He informed me that my belt arrangement was wrong and would cause the belt to slack up and squeel, so i had to redesign the tensioner system. funny thing is, the belts can go anyway that you want them to go so long as the tensioner is at the end of the pulley system. the picture above shows the progress that ive had to go through in order to make a correct system.

    Box C was my original intention of having 1 belt drive everything, but after seeing everything on the engine, i doubt that someone makes a belt long enough to wrap around the front of the car. So then i come up with box A which the tensioner wouldnt fit and resulted in box B, which was when my friend came over and explained how a belt system needs to run to work properly. Box D fits all the right rules and fits, but I need to find another tensioner that will fit the location of where the pulley can swing and still clear all the other pulleys and standoffs.

    You would think that an older car like this that i could cram an elephant down under the hood but no, the engine takes up that much space and leaves little room for just putting stuff where it needs to be. That, and the wheel wells are as big as Dark Helmets helmet in spaceballs "the movie"

    heres a picture of what it "was" before i started taking everything apart:

    for as big as it is, its still crammed full of stuff almost like an import LOL

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