Thread: All-in-one Atom330/ION project

I power my screen from my computer. The case I posted comes with a molex to 12V adapter and a very long power cable. Prior to that I plugged it into the cigarette lighter. Believe it or not the DCDC-USB powers it and my Atom motherboard.

I believe that - the screen only eats 10W or so max. Atom mobo - 40W with accessories. So you are looking at 50W - that's not too big an issue. Unfortunately, the nettop I'm using needs 19VDC, so I can't power anything else from DCDC-USB.

I know you already purchased the other PC but you ever looked into the Fit-PC2? It has auto-on so as soon as power is applied it wil boot up, it uses 12vdc at 8w full load (8-15vdc tolerant), 2gb ram and upto 2ghz atom (only single core though), can be shut down using USB from carnetix and I'm sure others as well, is only 4″ x 4.5″ x 1.05″, has WiFi and has HD audio with Line-out, line-in, mic, and 5.1 Channels S/PDIF. 2 issues though, 1: no bluetooth so you need to use usb and 2: no VGA at all only HDMI and DVI through converter so you have to purchase a Fit-VGA adapter wich converts HDMI to analog VGA. So you could power everything from the same power supply, the pc the monitor and the radio and probly the amp with the carnetix and have plenty of power left over. You could even power it directly from the car for that matter since it takes 8-15vdc.

Anyway looks good,

Best of luck getting everything working the way you want. I am looking into putting my CarPC into my BMW E-92 coupe but have some concerns because the computer that controls everything is in the stock radio so I have to relocate it to the trunk and am not sure its worht it.

Thanks Dave. I looked into the Fit-PC2 and for equivalent configurations, my computer is about half the price. I also like the ION core of my computer for hardware acceleration of flash and potential DirectX/OpenGL, if a frontend uses those. 19V is the only downside of it, as far as I can tell, but it seems to be working out ok. My screen arrives today - I have to redo the wire harness (increase the gauge - black box comes with some thin wires!), drill 2 more mounting holes, install the monitor and then I think I'm done! Now I just have to wait for it to get at least somewhat warm so I can take my dashboard apart.

Got my lilliput screen today. The picture quality is A LOT better than MiniTouch, primarily because it handles 800x480 like a boss (mini touch would not show 800x480 properly with Nvidia ION). Everything is great except for the usb cable being attached to the HDMI port. That means I have to use their hdmi cable, a bulky long-*** cable. I'm going to see if HDMI still works with a regular cable and if I can find the USB board and its output and solder a separate USB connector. What a pain :-/

I understand, good luck. It looks great so far.

It looks like I won't be able to use the HDMI connection of the new lilliput monitor - they packed the USB connection into the HDMI port, the stock cable is way too long and bulky (twss?) and there's no way I'm soldering an HDMI connector. I bought an SKS lilliput connector and I'll solder a DVI-A plug to it for the VGA signal and a 3 wire USB plug (apparently, it does not use/need 5V line, only Data+, Data- and Ground).

A quick update: I'm still waiting for an order to arrive with hdmi angle adapters. I decided that I"m going to try to coil the HDMI/USB cable - I should have some breathing room between the monitor and the computer block. VGA over DVI is giving me the same problem as with MiniTouch - I can't get the screen settings right, so I'll stick with HDMI, which means sticking with the stock cable. I might have to cut off the strain reliefs at the end so I can bend it sharply. The cable is pretty thick so I'm not worried about breaking it.
I've soldered another AUX input port. Now I have to drill some holes for the amplifier fan in the enclosure cover and after that I think I'm done with building.

Looks cool